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Double Helix Works?

sshack

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Location
California
Coincidentally, as the deliberation if going on, I am really interested in a DH Deviant jacket, but find myself in a similar quandry to the one discussed above. I could get it direct from DH in Japan, hope that they are able to work with me on the imprt/customs fees/ and make a really nice saving on the UK retail price (£1595 at Rivet and Hide), however this means I wont have the option of returning it if it is no good for me fit wise or Im just not feeling it. Going down to London to R&H check it out in person isnt really an option (time constraints coupled with the shit show that is the UK rail network at the moment), so what to do? Take a chance and wait for the direct order to show up, or pay a fair whack more for next day delivery and the option to return it if its no good? Any thoughts gratefully recieved. More specifically, can anyone tell me how the Deviants fit - true to size (UK 44 in my case) or slim fitting like the old RMC J24s?
There's an option to return/replace I believe w/ DHWorks. Is it easy? Not sure.
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,416
Coincidentally, as the deliberation if going on, I am really interested in a DH Deviant jacket, but find myself in a similar quandry to the one discussed above. I could get it direct from DH in Japan, hope that they are able to work with me on the imprt/customs fees/ and make a really nice saving on the UK retail price (£1595 at Rivet and Hide), however this means I wont have the option of returning it if it is no good for me fit wise or Im just not feeling it. Going down to London to R&H check it out in person isnt really an option (time constraints coupled with the shit show that is the UK rail network at the moment), so what to do? Take a chance and wait for the direct order to show up, or pay a fair whack more for next day delivery and the option to return it if its no good? Any thoughts gratefully recieved. More specifically, can anyone tell me how the Deviants fit - true to size (UK 44 in my case) or slim fitting like the old RMC J24s?
I think in your case, size 44 and located in UK, it's best to get it from one of the UK shops that carry the brand. If the sizing doesn't work out you can always return for refund or exchange.

I am in Vancouver, and I can fit into RC size 42, so it makes sense for me to take the gamble on Rakuten. Our VAT is only 12% and there is no import duty.

From my research I believe the old Double Helix was running on one size too small like old RMC, Y2, Fountainhead...etc., but they seemed to changed to the new TTS fits like RC/FW/new RMC/new FCL. This is what I hope is the case.

I've switched gear and planned to get the "FLAG Waver 30's California Model" instead of the white core indigo trucker. Will post it here when I go through with it. I think it's gonna be similar to the Deviant but more aviator.

imgrc0106193362.jpg
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,416
To my eyes their truckers look somewhat elongated.

View attachment 468731 View attachment 468733

This one is cool, looks like the 'Howard Hughes jacket' di caprio wore in 'the aviator'. Except the one in the movie was flimsy, made by belstaff.


View attachment 468732
That was my first Double Helix choice, the Howard Huge jacket. But I can always come back to that one since no one is picking it up for whatever reason...

I went for the 30's aviator I posted above over the trucker for that number 3 NOS zip. I am not sure if it's a typo or for real, but a number 3 dead stock Talon for main zip... Very interesting.
 

Aloysius

One Too Many
Messages
1,459

Despot

Familiar Face
Messages
56
Location
Dublin, Ireland
Coincidentally, as the deliberation if going on, I am really interested in a DH Deviant jacket, but find myself in a similar quandry to the one discussed above. I could get it direct from DH in Japan, hope that they are able to work with me on the imprt/customs fees/ and make a really nice saving on the UK retail price (£1595 at Rivet and Hide), however this means I wont have the option of returning it if it is no good for me fit wise or Im just not feeling it. Going down to London to R&H check it out in person isnt really an option (time constraints coupled with the shit show that is the UK rail network at the moment), so what to do? Take a chance and wait for the direct order to show up, or pay a fair whack more for next day delivery and the option to return it if its no good? Any thoughts gratefully recieved. More specifically, can anyone tell me how the Deviants fit - true to size (UK 44 in my case) or slim fitting like the old RMC J24s?
Hey… I’m a 44 in the Deviant. I’ll post fit pics as soon as I can
 

sshack

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Location
California
I think in your case, size 44 and located in UK, it's best to get it from one of the UK shops that carry the brand. If the sizing doesn't work out you can always return for refund or exchange.

I am in Vancouver, and I can fit into RC size 42, so it makes sense for me to take the gamble on Rakuten. Our VAT is only 12% and there is no import duty.

From my research I believe the old Double Helix was running on one size too small like old RMC, Y2, Fountainhead...etc., but they seemed to changed to the new TTS fits like RC/FW/new RMC/new FCL. This is what I hope is the case.

I've switched gear and planned to get the "FLAG Waver 30's California Model" instead of the white core indigo trucker. Will post it here when I go through with it. I think it's gonna be similar to the Deviant but more aviator.

View attachment 468722
Is this a different kind of DH leather? It looks less "shiny" than the current pics I've been seeing.
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,416
Is this a different kind of DH leather? It looks less "shiny" than the current pics I've been seeing.
I'll post some pics of it when I get it. The advertising says semi aniline veg tan teacore. I'll put it next to the other similar Japanese jackets I have to see the shine difference.
The most interesting leather from DH (for me) is their white core indigo leather. But a black jacket first to see where they're at in terms of overall build quality and build. This one is suppose to come with a number 3 Talon old stock zip. I've never seen one that small for main zip before. Fun.
 

Despot

Familiar Face
Messages
56
Location
Dublin, Ireland
C277A6D1-3777-4276-978C-75BB042218EE.jpeg


Apologies for the quick and dodgy shots. Just managed to get time to quickly take a few before going to run errands this morning.

I’m a true 44 … carrying more bulk around my waist than I’d like … but for context I’m wearing 36 waist Oni jeans in this photo. I’m 5ft 10 and a little long in the torso.

The Deviant sits slightly above my natural jeans waist … but most cross zips do on me.

It’s not tight … but I wear a t shirt underneath generally as I like cross zips to fit close. If I’d wanted to layer I’d have needed to size up but then it would have been too wide in the shoulders. It’s not sausage tight - it zips open and closed easily. It’s how I like jackets to fit.

Shoulders are kinda boxy - something to note if that’s an issue for you.
6B1004C1-D449-4736-AEE2-2865E69840A8.jpeg

CBCA3558-4DC1-479D-A27A-10015D75EEC6.jpeg

You can see what I mean re: the shoulders here too - it’s partially that I probably have the shoulders of a 42 fit but the bulk of a 44 … but it’s also partially the way the bi-swing shoulder is cut.
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
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2,416
IMG_0952.JPG
IMG_0953.JPG
IMG_0954.JPG
IMG_0955.JPG


Just got this Double Helix jacket. Impressive. I had my doubts about this brand before. Mainly because of the "union made" buttons used on their trucker jackets. Which lead me to believe these were just another re-branded Pineal Jet jackets. But this jacket shattered all my doubts about this brand. Better construction than Y2. Edit: Not fair I was comparing it to mid low end Y2 not Eco horse higher end Y2 (which still cost more about 10 to 20%)
Leather is THICK. Possibly the thickest leather I have from Japan. And surprisingly soft and pliable. Very natural finishing, but they've matched the panels well so everything looks balanced. Construction is exceedingly well for such thick leather.
More pics to come later.
This was a nice surprise.
 
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sshack

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Location
California
View attachment 470804 View attachment 470805 View attachment 470806 View attachment 470807

Just got this Double Helix jacket. Impressive. I had my doubts about this brand before. Mainly because of the "union made" buttons used on their trucker jackets. Which lead me to believe these were just another re-branded Pineal Jet jackets. But this jacket shattered all my doubts about this brand. Better construction than Y2.
Leather is THICK. Possibly the thickest leather I have from Japan. And surprisingly soft and pliable. Very natural finishing, but they've matched the panels well so everything looks balanced. Construction is exceedingly well for such thick leather.
More pics to come later.
This was a nice surprise.
How long from order to delivery?
 

sshack

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Location
California
View attachment 469795

Apologies for the quick and dodgy shots. Just managed to get time to quickly take a few before going to run errands this morning.

I’m a true 44 … carrying more bulk around my waist than I’d like … but for context I’m wearing 36 waist Oni jeans in this photo. I’m 5ft 10 and a little long in the torso.

The Deviant sits slightly above my natural jeans waist … but most cross zips do on me.

It’s not tight … but I wear a t shirt underneath generally as I like cross zips to fit close. If I’d wanted to layer I’d have needed to size up but then it would have been too wide in the shoulders. It’s not sausage tight - it zips open and closed easily. It’s how I like jackets to fit.

Shoulders are kinda boxy - something to note if that’s an issue for you.
View attachment 469808
View attachment 469809
You can see what I mean re: the shoulders here too - it’s partially that I probably have the shoulders of a 42 fit but the bulk of a 44 … but it’s also partially the way the bi-swing shoulder is cut.
Thank you, this is helpful as I'm also on that 42/44 border. I like the broad shoulders of the 44, but the sleeve length is a bit long. How long did it take to receive?
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
753
View attachment 470804 View attachment 470805 View attachment 470806 View attachment 470807

Just got this Double Helix jacket. Impressive. I had my doubts about this brand before. Mainly because of the "union made" buttons used on their trucker jackets. Which lead me to believe these were just another re-branded Pineal Jet jackets. But this jacket shattered all my doubts about this brand. Better construction than Y2.
Leather is THICK. Possibly the thickest leather I have from Japan. And surprisingly soft and pliable. Very natural finishing, but they've matched the panels well so everything looks balanced. Construction is exceedingly well for such thick leather.
More pics to come later.
This was a nice surprise.
Grain looks great. How heavy compared to your CXL jackets?

What caught my attention when reading their website was their use and descriptions of the different leather varieties they use with different jacket models.
Seems like a nice choice than just using a standard 1.2 mm horsehide for every style.
I don’t own a bunch of jackets but I bet different styles benefit from different weights, thicknesses and tempers of leather. Like when A2 makers use different leather to mimic a different contract No.
 

sshack

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Location
California
Grain looks great. How heavy compared to your CXL jackets?

What caught my attention when reading their website was their use and descriptions of the different leather varieties they use with different jacket models.
Seems like a nice choice than just using a standard 1.2 mm horsehide for every style.
I don’t own a bunch of jackets but I bet different styles benefit from different weights, thicknesses and tempers of leather. Like when A2 makers use different leather to mimic a different contract No.
Yeah, it looks like this is a little different from the DH leather that Marc bought in Berlin-- forgot the jacket name. But his was shinier, which I kind of prefer for non-riding style jackets. This leather looks a little more "weathered" and the pigment is a little more faded on purpose? Maybe it's just the photos that are different. ACTUALLY-- it must be the lighting. I think all these jackets use the Black Tea Core.
 
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Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
753
Yeah, it looks like this is a little different from the DH leather that Marc bought in Berlin-- forgot the jacket name. But his was shinier, which I kind of prefer for non-riding style jackets. This leather looks a little more "weathered" and the pigment is a little more faded on purpose? Maybe it's just the photos that are different.
The shiny leather is interesting to me now, I used to think it looked cheap and matte was the way to go but now I’m curious since seeing that shiny car coat and the shiny pony on the Field leather instagram. So many leathers, so little money
 

Despot

Familiar Face
Messages
56
Location
Dublin, Ireland
Thank you, this is helpful as I'm also on that 42/44 border. I like the broad shoulders of the 44, but the sleeve length is a bit long. How long did it take to receive?
I bought this from Burg & Schild rather than directly from DH, so it only took 7 days to arrive (Berlin to Ireland).

Re: the sleeve length - it’s actually perfect for me. Hits right where I like the sleeve to land … just on my wrist. The jacket is still breaking in too so the arm rolls will pull it back by 1cm or so I think (which is fine).
 

sshack

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Location
California
I bought this from Burg & Schild rather than directly from DH, so it only took 7 days to arrive (Berlin to Ireland).

Re: the sleeve length - it’s actually perfect for me. Hits right where I like the sleeve to land … just on my wrist. The jacket is still breaking in too so the arm rolls will pull it back by 1cm or so I think (which is fine).
Hard to tell from your pics-- would you say the finish on your jacket is more matte or more shiny? Thanks!
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,105
Location
East Java
The shiny leather is interesting to me now, I used to think it looked cheap and matte was the way to go but now I’m curious since seeing that shiny car coat and the shiny pony on the Field leather instagram. So many leathers, so little money
there is shiny and shiny, shine that comes with wear ( some leather that looks dull when new may develop shine after being worn for awhile) or shine from polish like beewax looks beautiful and blends better with the grainy parts or creases since you can always buff it again and again, shiny that comes from sprayed on coating (plastic varnish) doesn't look good especially when that shine is broken or scratched by wear and creases then it looks cheap since you can't buff it into shine.
 

Despot

Familiar Face
Messages
56
Location
Dublin, Ireland
Hard to tell from your pics-- would you say the finish on your jacket is more matte or more shiny? Thanks!
It’s shiny right now … but it’s already starting to die down a bit (and that’s from maybe 20 wears so far).

It was super shiny out of the box! Interestingly I found the same to be true of my Addict AD01 - super shiny when new and even with relatively little wear that shine has deadened significantly (which is good)
 

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