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Double Helix Works?

Despot

Familiar Face
Messages
56
Location
Dublin, Ireland
Also… looking back at the photos now I’d say they’re a true representation of the level of shine. It’s much less prevalent than it was and I’d say by the end of this season it’ll be close to where by FH Delraiser is at (and that’s got a few years wear on it before I picked it up).
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,464
About the leather on my Double Helix, I think it's the same Eco horse used on the Y2 jackets. Which I do not have, so this is just my speculation. Because of the "tiger" stripes grains, and the thickness, and the matte shine, are almost identical what the advertising for Eco horse is. Please take a look at the photos of my jacket previously posted, and now compare to the Y2 photos and descriptions online:

imgrc0078709485.jpg

Image2.jpg

Image3.jpg

Image4.jpg


The epaulet on my DH jacket is single layer so I was able to get a caliper reading and it's thick:
IMG_1011.JPG


This is on par with Aero monster CXL SH thickness. However, this Japanese version isn't stuffed with anything, so it weighs less in actual pounds.

The thing that impressed me the most was the construction or the machine work on this DH jacket. It doesn't seem skived, but they are laser straight machine work. There is a guy in NYC that make jacket like this (excellent machine work) but his jackets cost north of 2500 dollars, and his leather is also stuffed with something waterproof so it feels heavier (actual jacket weight is heavier).

I saw Greg post some photos while he was assembling a jacket, and he used some sort of stitching guide next to the needle. I suspect that is the case with these DH jackets as well. Robotic straight stitches on super thick leather gets me going...

Image1.jpg


About lead time, @sshack I bought mine on Rakuten and it was a stock jacket so no 45 days wait. I am tempted at other jackets offered by DH right now, both the tan color one and their version of the pigs tits.

About sizing, Double Helix fits the same as the mid range Y2 jackets I have, and half size smaller than Rainbow Country. Their size 42 is same as Aero Hooch Hauler size 40 with half size bigger in the tummy, same as Fountainhead. If you are used to the regular (mid to low) arm hole jackets, you would probably want to size up. The super high arm hole jackets works with smaller chest measurements, like a vest, but it takes some getting used to, especially with thicker leather. You'd have to get used to the armhole seam feel, there will always be pressure there. The mobility is reduced with the super tight bicep/shoulder sleeves. If you want super slim but still good mobility look for the ones with action pleats, it would offset the slim sleeves.

This is how the 42 fits on me, for a daily jacket I'd also size up to the next size, but this also could work. It felt like a straight jacket for the first half hour and then once I've accepted the arm hole pressure it's doable. The soft leather really helps, even with the thick seams.

IMG_0960.JPG
IMG_0979.JPG
IMG_0990.JPG
 

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Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,442
Great looking jacket, I love the tiger stripe leather.

Interesting to see the zipper not going all the way up to the end of the lapel.
 

sshack

One of the Regulars
Messages
292
Location
California
About the leather on my Double Helix, I think it's the same Eco horse used on the Y2 jackets. Which I do not have, so this is just my speculation. Because of the "tiger" stripes grains, and the thickness, and the matte shine, are almost identical what the advertising for Eco horse is. Please take a look at the photos of my jacket previously posted, and now compare to the Y2 photos and descriptions online:

View attachment 470988
View attachment 470989
View attachment 470990
View attachment 470991

The epaulet on my DH jacket is single layer so I was able to get a caliper reading and it's thick:
View attachment 470992

This is on par with Aero monster CXL SH thickness. However, this Japanese version isn't stuffed with anything, so it weighs less in actual pounds.

The thing that impressed me the most was the construction or the machine work on this DH jacket. It doesn't seem skived, but they are laser straight machine work. There is a guy in NYC that make jacket like this (excellent machine work) but his jackets cost north of 2500 dollars, and his leather is also stuffed with something waterproof so it feels heavier (actual jacket weight is heavier).

I saw Greg post some photos while he was assembling a jacket, and he used some sort of stitching guide next to the needle. I suspect that is the case with these DH jackets as well. Robotic straight stitches on super thick leather gets me going...

View attachment 470993

About lead time, @sshack I bought mine on Rakuten and it was a stock jacket so no 45 days wait. I am tempted at other jackets offered by DH right now, both the tan color one and their version of the pigs tits.

About sizing, Double Helix fits the same as the mid range Y2 jackets I have, and half size smaller than Rainbow Country. Their size 42 is same as Aero Hooch Hauler size 40 with half size bigger in the tummy, same as Fountainhead. If you are used to the regular (mid to low) arm hole jackets, you would probably want to size up. The super high arm hole jackets works with smaller chest measurements, like a vest, but it takes some getting used to, especially with thicker leather. You'd have to get used to the armhole seam feel, there will always be pressure there. The mobility is reduced with the super tight bicep/shoulder sleeves. If you want super slim but still good mobility look for the ones with action pleats, it would offset the slim sleeves.

This is how the 42 fits on me, for a daily jacket I'd also size up to the next size, but this also could work. It felt like a straight jacket for the first half hour and then once I've accepted the arm hole pressure it's doable. The soft leather really helps, even with the thick seams.

View attachment 470994 View attachment 470996 View attachment 470997
Awesome report! Thanks!!! Really appreciate the info regarding" arm hole pressure." This is good to know. One of the main reasons I'm off Aero is because their jackets push down or cause pressure on the back of my neck. Not sure if it's because my trapezius is naturally kind of big, but... I didn't like it. Isn't this one supposed to be a riding jacket? It seems like it would be uncomfy to stretch your arms out with tight armhole style jackets.
 
Last edited:

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
766
How do you like it as a main zip? I have a bunch of talon #3 but those don't feel like they were ever intended to go on a leather jacket, except maybe for the chest pocket.

Here's one next to a #5, they really are tiny.

View attachment 471062
I too have a couple cool #3 talon NOS 1930’s zippers and Greg said he’d be reluctant to use them on leather but I might try to place them as a chest pocket zipper more as decoration because I probably wouldn’t store anything in a chest pocket if you know what I mean.

If you are going through with the LeatherTogs build you can use them on the D Pocket or the hidden zipper on the inside flap
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,464
How do you like it as a main zip? I have a bunch of talon #3 but those don't feel like they were ever intended to go on a leather jacket, except maybe for the chest pocket.

Here's one next to a #5, they really are tiny.

View attachment 471062
Yup the number 3 is a bit extreme. Definitely not main zip. I would not even recommend them for pockets to be honest. I think the good old number 5 loop and ball is the better bet for pockets. There just isn't enough bite on the size 3 teeth. The 3 has a nice fancy look but for a custom build I wouldn't risk it.
 

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