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Dyeing a Wool Overcoat

dnjan

One Too Many
Messages
1,687
Location
Seattle
I have a military-style wool overcoat (in that military green-brown color) that I would like to dye to a dark brown. The coat is about 4 pounds weight, so I think I will need about four packs of Rit dye.

Any suggestions? I assume I will have to spread the coat out horizontally after the hotwater-dye treatment, but any other suggestions/cautions?

I know this can be done, as I already have an old airforce overcoat that was dyed to a dark chacoal grey (by someone else, years ago).

Thanks!
 
Messages
10,603
Location
My mother's basement
Man, I dunno. It can be done, of course, but the potential for ending up with a ruined garment is quite high.

I have a bit of experience with dye. Not much, but some. I can't offer more than what you could learn in an hour or so of searching online. But I'd advise against using Rit. Instead, find a dye made specifically for dyeing protein fiber. (A specialty fabric or art supply store might have what you're looking for. The big chain fabric stores probably won't, though, if my experience is indicative of the norm.) Keep in mind also that if you use a dye that requires a high temperature, you may well get a small felt coat. And I'm thinking you'll also need a large vat to accommodate such a large garment, lest you get inconsistent dye absorption (is that the right term?).

I assume the coat has a lining, which is made of a fiber other than wool, right? The dye's effect on it will differ from its effect on the body of the coat. I fear it may not stick for a darn, and instead rub off on whatever you might wear under the coat. And how 'bout the buttons? Dye may stain them in an undesirable way.

Sounds like an interesting project, though. I look forward to learning what your experience with this might teach us.
 

Fletch

I'll Lock Up
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8,865
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Iowa - The Land That Stuff Forgot
Dry cleaners used to redye premade clothes professionally, back when clothes faded more (and were reused more). So this is very probably a lost industrial process - like much of hat making and repair - with a lot of trade secrets and specialty supplies and equipment required to do it right.
 

dnjan

One Too Many
Messages
1,687
Location
Seattle
A dry cleaners did it for me last time, but that was almost 30 years ago (in a different city).

I don't have too much tied up in the coat, so I will not mourn too long if it is a complete failure. I was hoping, however, that someone had done this before and could offer advice.

As for buttons, I was planning on replacing them anyway. I hadn't thought about the lining not taking the dye, and having it come off. That was not a problem last time.

I will continue searching before I take the big step.

Thanks for the comments/suggestions!
 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
Hello-

Since I was pointed at...

Hmmm...
I imagine shrinkage will be the main enemy here, with wool and hot water.
"Even" coverage of the dye might also be a problem on a large,
bulky garment(in a small vessel) but then again, it may not be.

Are you thinking of dyeing it in a washing machine?

Is cold-dyeing an option?

I have some experience but I'm really not TOO familiar with the intricacies
of home dyeing.

Explore all options- is my advice.


B
T
 

dnjan

One Too Many
Messages
1,687
Location
Seattle
I was planning on going to a restaurant supply, and getting an institutional-sized pot. (I figure I can always sell it to a home-brewer).

I will keep reading and looking, and will really hope that I can find a dry-cleaner to do it for me (like last time).
 

dakotanorth

Practically Family
Messages
543
Location
Camarillo, CA
Dyeing

DO
NOT
USE
Rit-Dye. It is a direct dye, which means, in short, it does not bond to the wool, it simply sticks to the surface. Once you do this, you cannot wash it in hot or warm water, and honestly I would be worried if you get caught in the rain while wearing it.
You need to use an Acid Dye- read up on these, and check out Dharma Trading online.
Yes, you will need a massive sized pot- 4 lbs is a huge wad of wool to stir around so you'll also need a boat paddle-sized spoon.
 
dakotanorth said:
DO
NOT
USE
Rit-Dye. It is a direct dye, which means, in short, it does not bond to the wool, it simply sticks to the surface. Once you do this, you cannot wash it in hot or warm water, and honestly I would be worried if you get caught in the rain while wearing it.
You need to use an Acid Dye- read up on these, and check out Dharma Trading online.
Yes, you will need a massive sized pot- 4 lbs is a huge wad of wool to stir around so you'll also need a boat paddle-sized spoon.


I definitely second checking out Dharma Trading and reading up on acid dyes. You want a cool water process, and the more you can spread the garment out the better - if I were doing an overcoat I'd use the bathtub.

Be careful not to rub the wool while wet to avoid felting. Also you may need to add ash or salt to the water to set it properly. The other thing to watch for with dying at home is any stains or oils that may be on the garment - make sure it is as clean as possible first to avoid any dye resist. Hope this helps :)
 

dakotanorth

Practically Family
Messages
543
Location
Camarillo, CA
Dyeing wool

Hamilton_Honey said:
I definitely second checking out Dharma Trading and reading up on acid dyes. You want a cool water process, and the more you can spread the garment out the better - if I were doing an overcoat I'd use the bathtub.

Be careful not to rub the wool while wet to avoid felting. Also you may need to add ash or salt to the water to set it properly. The other thing to watch for with dying at home is any stains or oils that may be on the garment - make sure it is as clean as possible first to avoid any dye resist. Hope this helps :)

True on all counts, but the heat- if he'll be using acid dye, it has to get hot.
The safe way it to gradually heat it up and cool it down- the RAPID change in temp is what kills the wool.

dnjan, are you taking notes?? ;) ;)
 

dnjan

One Too Many
Messages
1,687
Location
Seattle
Better than taking notes - I found the directions for dyeing wool on the dharma site. Thanks for pointing them out!

Next step - used restaurant supplies for a large stainless pot.
 

dakotanorth

Practically Family
Messages
543
Location
Camarillo, CA
dnjan said:
Better than taking notes - I found the directions for dyeing wool on the dharma site. Thanks for pointing them out!

Next step - used restaurant supplies for a large stainless pot.

Avoid aluminum pots and spoons- they tend to react with the dye. Nothing actually "Happens" but that's just it- nothing happens. The dye reacts with the metal rather than bonding to the fibers.
Stainless steel is the way to go....
 

JanSolo

Practically Family
Messages
879
Location
Ever so sunny Westphalia, Germany
I have re-dyed a couple of heavy wool overcoats during the last couple of years. You will defintively need acid dye to get a lasting effect. The best way to dye your coat is in fact in a bathtub. Cast iron tub with baked on enamel is probably best as the enamel doesn't get affected by the dye. Also it's much easier to rinse the coat after dying - you simply flush the tub and refill it with fresh water. Imagine yourself carrying a large stainless pot with 80 litres of water in it....
A bathtub also makes sure to get a really even finish as it's spacious enough to accomodate an overcoat without having to fold it.
 

Don Pelon

New in Town
Messages
29
Location
San Francisco, CA
I have re-dyed a couple of heavy wool overcoats during the last couple of years. You will defintively need acid dye to get a lasting effect. The best way to dye your coat is in fact in a bathtub. Cast iron tub with baked on enamel is probably best as the enamel doesn't get affected by the dye. Also it's much easier to rinse the coat after dying - you simply flush the tub and refill it with fresh water. Imagine yourself carrying a large stainless pot with 80 litres of water in it....
A bathtub also makes sure to get a really even finish as it's spacious enough to accomodate an overcoat without having to fold it.

@Jan:
I'm thinking about re-dyeing a heavy wool overcoat using acid dyes. It seems you've had some success with this. The biggest problem is of course finding a receptacle big enough (in your case a bathtub), and keeping the water hot enough. As I understand it, the water must be simmering on a stove for the dye to set properly. How can one do this with a bathtub? Did you just pour in boiling water and stir the coat around for 40 minutes? The coat I have is already a lost caise, so if it doesn't work I can just donate it to the charity shop!
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
@Jan:
I'm thinking about re-dyeing a heavy wool overcoat using acid dyes. It seems you've had some success with this. The biggest problem is of course finding a receptacle big enough (in your case a bathtub), and keeping the water hot enough. As I understand it, the water must be simmering on a stove for the dye to set properly. How can one do this with a bathtub? Did you just pour in boiling water and stir the coat around for 40 minutes? The coat I have is already a lost caise, so if it doesn't work I can just donate it to the charity shop!

Thread ended 4 years back. Jan has not been on for a while. Just an FYI...
 

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