Neckwear For generations the necktie has been married to the shirt. Or, more correctly, it has been married to the shirt collar, since the space left there for the knot has naturally influenced the styling of the tie. 1900-1910 In the early 1900s (when the terms “necktie” and “scarf” were interchangeable), the popular wing collar called for a fairly large four-in-hand. The high starched collar, however, left a very small area for the knot and so was worn with a relatively narrow four-in-hand. Nevertheless most of the time little beyond the knot was on view, since suit jackets were of the high-button variety and were almost always worn with a waistcoat or vest. Yet there were some notable exceptions. The puff tie, for instance, required no tying at all because it was composed of two broad ends that crossed in front and were held together by a tiepin. Consequently, the puff tie managed to cover the area beneath the collar and above the vest. The ready-tied scarf was also very popular, and two prominent styles were the Teck and the Joinville. The former was available with both straight and flowing (pointed) ends; the latter was strictly a straight-end model. The 1900 Sears, Roebuck and Company catalog showed both styles, but described the Joinville as “the most popular and swellest gentleman’s scarf ever produced. These scarfs were 6 inches wide and 34 inches long, and are made from purest woven silk specially imported by us. We have an immense assortment, comprising more than three hundred different designs: all light and medium colorings in nearly every color and shade ever thought of. They consist mostly of combination colors, just a few of which are blue, lavender, light green, cherry, strawberry, olive, myrtle, moss green, turquoise, opal, red, etc., all combined with light contrasting shades of cream, white, bright sun-shiny yellow, pale blue and a host of other beautiful shades; handsome brocade patterns in Persian effects, Oriental effects, Dresden fancies, Chameleon grotesques, Roman novelties, Scotch and Highland checks, and an almost endless variety of artistic and fashionable designs. The De Joinville scarf is popular with fashionable gentlemen, because of its exclusiveness and because it can be tied into several different shapes”. Among the shapes were the Prince of Wales knot and the puff, with a finger ring sometimes slipped just below the knot for added elegance. “An untied man is ever an untidy man!” wrote the Sears Roebuck catalog copywriter, offering the reader a sumptuous collection of other neckwear fashions, which included silk Teck scarfs for 19 cents (“The kind that you usually pay 35¢, 45¢, and 50¢ for “); piqué Teck scarfs elaborately embroidered in silk down the entire front; white China-silk band bow ties for standing collars; fancy silk bow ties for the new turned-down, or fold, collars; the new pull-band bow ties of French madras or cheviot (“Very popular for outing wear”); and reversible four-in-hands in pure China silk (“alike on both sides and reversible…in very nobby patterns”). 1910-1920 The high-band Belmont, a white starched collar, created a sensation when it first appeared and resulted in the introduction of the small-knot narrow tie whose knot appeared at the bottom of the collar. Equally popular at the same time, however, was the Henley shirt with a detachable collar that was worn with a wide, full-blown necktie that all but covered the shirt front. This shirt, with its wide openings and greater space between the points, attained fashion supremacy in this youth-oriented era. Naturally, such a shirt called for a wider tie with a larger knot. Two entirely new forms of ties were also introduced during this dynamic decade: the butterfly bow and the long tie with the sailor’s knot, both of which are still in vogue today.