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Feedback on fit of Aero Board Racer?

Canuck Panda

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And about breaking CXL. I used to use the water method too, but it takes too much time and effort. So I’ve trialed and errored a few different things and found mink oil or any non degrading oil will do the trick faster and less effort.
When the leather is soaked with water, as it dries, it brings some of that wax out in evaporation, so hence less wax more break in.
But some CXL are so well built the wax is a lot and they stay in place (as they were intended), not like the cheap knock offs it will bleed white after wet.
Mink oil or oil will break down wax. If you poor oil over stubborn candle wax, let it sit then the wax becomes easily removed no Elbow grease needed.
Cxl is very hearty, built for boots. For jackets we can use at least 1/2 less the wax content.
 

Carlos840

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To me the best way to break in CXL is to wear it when it is warm.
Most leathers i use water to break in, but IMO CXL has such a high wax content that it doesn't really react to water.
On the other hand it reacts to heat a lot, becoming much softer as the waxes get softer and more mobile as the temperature increases.
Wait for the summer and wear your jacket when it is warm, it will soften up and break in super quick.

Edit: this also works really well for leather with thick topcoat. My Comp Weight Vanson Chopper was oblivious to water, but i wore it a lot on my bike during the heatwave this summer and it has done more to break it in than wearing it in the rain this winter.
If moisture can't get in through the topcoat get it in through the underside...
 

Canuck Panda

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On cold mornings I pop my CXL in the dryer high heat for one minute to sofTen the wax. But the tumbling has premature wear and tear on the snaps. So I leave them by the radiator now. It takes longer to warm up but less metal wear and tear. i need a heated closet specially built for my CXL jackets…. Always 25 degrees Celsius.
 

Carlos840

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4,750
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London
On cold mornings I pop my CXL in the dryer high heat for one minute to sofTen the wax. But the tumbling has premature wear and tear on the snaps. So I leave them by the radiator now. It takes longer to warm up but less metal wear and tear. i need a heated closet specially built for my CXL jackets…. Always 25 degrees Celsius.

Man, you are braver than me...
I have seen enough pictures of dry rotted/cracking CXL jackets to scare me from heat.
To me this is the last leather you want to put next to a radiator or in a tumbler.
I really hope your jackets age well and don't start cracking...
 

newtojackets

Familiar Face
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96
Just put on this jacket and agree with what’s just been said. Here in the Uk it’s quite a bit warmer this week than last week and the jacket feels way more mobile.

One thing I’ve seen on parts the BR is brown popping through e.g. on the cuff. If this the teacore already starting to appear?

5E82307C-2B50-45FD-80A3-61D1283E3A2E.jpeg
 

Canuck Panda

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Man, you are braver than me...
I have seen enough pictures of dry rotted/cracking CXL jackets to scare me from heat.
To me this is the last leather you want to put next to a radiator or in a tumbler.
I really hope your jackets age well and don't start cracking...
They’re doing ok, no dry rot or crack. But my oldest one is really only about 5 years. And they do need the extra warmth like you mentioned. Once they’re warmed up they actually retain heat well so they don’t immediately turn to stiff board in cold winds. CXL is very hearty stuff. Really built for boots less for jackets with the same wax ratio.

But thanks to Horweens inconsistency, I have CXL jackets that came less stiff less wax. Pliable from day one without much break. Every few jackets I luck out with one winner or one lemon.
 

Carlos840

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London
They’re doing ok, no dry rot or crack. But my oldest one is really only about 5 years. And they do need the extra warmth like you mentioned. Once they’re warmed up they actually retain heat well so they don’t immediately turn to stiff board in cold winds. CXL is very hearty stuff. Really built for boots less for jackets with the same wax ratio.

But thanks to Horweens inconsistency, I have CXL jackets that came less stiff less wax. Pliable from day one without much break. Every few jackets I luck out with one winner or one lemon.

Horween inconcistency is crazy.
These two jackets are made from hides from the same batch:

752ngb4.jpg

OxWHjHp.jpg


The right one is smooth and shiney, deep black, the left one is crispy and rough, more brown than black, with a super thin crispy topcoat.
Since taking this pic i have oiled the left one and it has darkened a bit, but they both look so different they could be hides from a different tannery.
 

Carlos840

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4,750
Location
London
Just put on this jacket and agree with what’s just been said. Here in the Uk it’s quite a bit warmer this week than last week and the jacket feels way more mobile.

One thing I’ve seen on parts the BR is brown popping through e.g. on the cuff. If this the teacore already starting to appear?

View attachment 455005

Yep, that's the top coat rubbing off and the brown underside showing through.

If you look at the pics i posted above, you can see on the left jacket that the top coat can be very thin and almost see through. Yours looks thicker like the jacket on the right, but both will wear down to the same colour underneath.
 

Guppy

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4,011
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Cleveland, OH
CXL break-in. Just wear it. Put the time in. That's all for me.

I have treated stiff CXL with Pecard and had it instantly become pliable, and if that's what you want that's the only shortcut I'd recommend. Everything else is artificial aging or abuse. The leather can take it of course, but why subject it to such treatment when it isn't necessary?
 

Canuck Panda

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2,315
Horween inconcistency is crazy.
These two jackets are made from hides from the same batch:

752ngb4.jpg

OxWHjHp.jpg


The right one is smooth and shiney, deep black, the left one is crispy and rough, more brown than black, with a super thin crispy topcoat.
Since taking this pic i have oiled the left one and it has darkened a bit, but they both look so different they could be hides from a different tannery.
Yup thats Horween…. It gets even more inconsistent when it’s the number 8 color. I have some that are dyed through and some are teacore, some are more red and some are more purple. Grain is also not consistent.
But the big but, is that CXL is quite hearty and ages well. Like your Vansons, I like how both evolved. One is going down the teacore road the other is staying blacked out. makes the aged jacket very personalized imo.
The money for Horween is in their Shells and high dollar steers. For horsehides we get what we can get. I’m just glad they can still produce and sell horsehide under their grandfather clause. There’s a horse slaughter ban in many parts of the US unfortunately. And I’ve read somewhere Lost Worlds had to change tannery because the old one got shut down due to issues like this. A lot of horses are just sent to Mexico for slaughter but I’ve not seen much horsehide from there. Strange. Maybe they sell the hides back to European or Japanese tanneries.
Great Commandos. Not possible to get them now. Never sell.

Any ill effects from the Pecards? Or the mink oil for that matter @Canuck Panda ?

I like that mine have become somewhat duller with use, wouldn't want to add any shine.
I’ve not used Picard yet they’re not available to me in my area. But I’ve used the Langlitz conditioner and mink oil. Both will dull the shine. I needed to give it a quick brush to bring the shine back. Like polishing my boots. I don‘t think new leather needs any conditioning at all for many years. I just use them to speed up the break in. And on used jackets where I would wash and clean and then condition. The wash isn’t for grimes but me trying to get the cologne smell out of the lining. Leather in general are quite tough and doesn‘t need much maintenance. It’s the lining that usually needs more work. I wish I had the skills to reline the jackets myself…
 

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