Here's the pic...$205
The ELUSIVE Style 115 and I missed it ARGH#$%Vintage Schott Bros Perfecto Brown Leather Motorcycle Rider Jacket Mens Size 44 $169.99 shipped.
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A find and a deal:
Polo Ralph Lauren 30s style aviator, tagged size M, 558$. I think dinerman used to wear a similar one?
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Swedish suede jacket, a slightly unusual variant of an actually timeless style (knit bottom/cuffs vintage versions of the 40s and 50s are basically identical to modern ones). I would have already bought it if it were my size.
Seller says 40s-50s era (I would agree), size 38 (tagged european 48), 70£.
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@tmitchell59 I am so glad to hear from you on this Terry. I have been trying to research this jacket and have rewatched all your Sears jacket and Herc videos (even the Oldies!!) in the last month or so even pausing them to gaze into the background at your jackets. I know that you had one of these 30s Hercules jackets in your collection but I knew it was a little rough and not your size so you keep it on a fit mannequin. It was hard for me to gauge that jacket to compare it. And there aren't many available photos of these 30s Hercs. Most searches end up showing Aero Original Hercules jackets --- not vintage ones.Roughwear Clothing with labeling
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Early Sears Hercules with inner collar still present.
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The low adjustment belts have been removed. The chin strap has been moved to close the hem!
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@tmitchell59 I am so glad to hear from you on this Terry. I have been trying to research this jacket and have rewatched all your Sears jacket and Herc videos (even the Oldies!!) in the last month or so even pausing them to gaze into the background at your jackets. I know that you had one of these 30s Hercules jackets in your collection but I knew it was a little rough and not your size so you keep it on a fit mannequin. It was hard for me to gauge that jacket to compare it. And there aren't many available photos of these 30s Hercs. Most searches end up showing Aero Original Hercules jackets --- not vintage ones.
I NEARLY scored one of these on Etsy a couple of years ago. But literally as I was messaging the Seller about the length measurement---someone bought it. I have posted a pic of that jacket here in the Lounge before but I cannot find it and the Seller is now on hiatus so her store images are unavailable. But the jacket I saw had the Hercules label. It also had arrow/triangle stitched reinforcements where the edges of the handwarmer pockets had failed. It was a pretty crude repair and it changed the nature of the jacket some----but it did seem to fix the issue.
I have tried doing patent searches before on this collar label and found nothing. But today, being a bit more obsessed--- I did several searches. Because a couple of numbers were illegible, I had to resort to trying every number in that place until it hit on something.
SOOOOO-----I now believe I have found this correct patent!!
I know it was filed in 1934 but it could well have also been filed years earlier as I am also seeing records dating to 1929 as well. However, the clearest indication is that the patent number 1,993,705 was filed by an Isaac Kirschenbaum for a coat that details among other things, an adjustable collar. On the face of the filing, it isn't entirely clear that the patent is for the collar itself although it is illustrated in decent enough detail. There just isn't a lot of written description. In another search, I found this patent number having a descriptive classification as falling into the category of "CLOTH COLLARS". It is a Single page filing and very rudimentary and lacking as to the descriptions of the specifics of the design. I am attaching this patent filing with this post. There are clear images of the collar design here.
Patent registration in the U.S. has evolved greatly over the years as inventions and innovations of those inventions have gotten more and more prevalent and complex. Basically, the more stuff people come up with, the more there is a need to differentiate new products and designs from previous designs for purposes of patenting the new design. The first guy who invents something doesn't have to explain what is different and unique about his design compared to others because there are no others. But as these spaces get more and more crowded with innovation, the necessary filing documentation gets exponentially more complex. So in my experience, the older the patent, the more basic the description on the filing and this one is a perfect example of this.
That said, I do believe that this is the correct patent we are looking for on the Adjustable collar. Now I am going to chase ol' Isaac Kirschenbaum down another rabbit hole to see if I can link him to any one maker. As it stands, it APPEARS that the invention was not registered to a company but rather to the individual inventor who could well have licensed its use extensively.
Now I personally think that the Adjustable Collar was something that maybe caught on for a few years but it really never didn't stick. This is based on seeing these labels in only a certain era of garment and seeing many cases where the collar itself is not present. It all suggests to me that this innovation was relatively short lived. IF this is true---we should be able to use these labels to more narrowly id the production years of these jackets. I don't know the answer----maybe we can narrow the ID to a stretch between 1934 and 1940 or so. Something like that.
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This should be archived and the correct patent number is listed in the upper right corner. Most of these labels are not easy to read the patent number so at least---this should no longer be a mystery.
Now let's see about our Mr. Kirschenbaum...........................
Nice work @tmitchell59 !!!!!!!!!!----NOW we are gettin somewhere!!!!!!! This is some definitive evidence!!!Excellent work! It was Roughwear Clothing Co.
In March 1930 Hyman Kirschenbaum, founder and president, died, and the business was willed to his daughter Eleanor and his son Isaac Kirschenbaum took over as president.
In 1931 the company was reorganised, Isaac Kirschenbaum was president and treasurer; H. Sander, vice
Oh Hot damn!!!! Ok..... I'm a little slow sometimes..... lol.... Looks sorta like a cross between a Vanson and a Vanek (out of Vienna)....... Cool one. Vanson pulls off the classy two piece back or center seam as good as anyone I have seen.That’s because Vanson made it! These are collabs with Vanson. Junya just trimmed and cut some design elements.