'Fishtail' waist

[Nick D]

I've seen several variations of the fishtail waist on trousers, and I have two questions about them. First, is 'fishtail' the technical term, or is this feature known by other names?

Also, concerning the different types. Some seem to be a simple slash in the waistband, some a larger V notch in the waistband, and on others the waistband is shaped in an extravagant double scallop with buttons at each tip. Are these different styles more indicative of time and place or of particular types of suit?

Regards,
Nick

 

[Wolfmanjack]

In the 'classic' fishtail, the points of the tail reach well above the waistline, so that the back of the trousers rises much higher than the front. These are worn only with braces (suspenders), that attach to the points of the fishtail.

This is with the understanding, of course, that the trousers are cut to the 'true' waist, i.e., at the bottom of the ribs, just above the navel.

'Fishtail' is the only term I have seen applied to this tailoring feature.

 

[Tomasso]

First, is 'fishtail' the technical term, or is this feature known by other names?

I've heard fishtails called English back, British back and high back as well.

Some seem to be a simple slash in the waistband, some a larger V notch in the waistband

These are called split waistbands and are commonly found on RTW. These can be worn with or without braces. The split/notch is there for comfort.

[/QUOTE]

on others the waistband is shaped in an extravagant double scallop with buttons at each tip. Are these different styles more indicative of time and place or of particular types of suit?

These are fishtails.Very British and seen less and less these days as most men choose to wear belts. Fishtails can not be worn without braces.

 

[iammatt]

These are fishtails.Very British and seen less and less these days as most men choose to wear belts. Fishtails can not be worn without braces.

One should make sure to keep their jacket on at all times when wearing these. I cannot think of a more disturbing site in the world of men's clothing, though I am sure that they are very comfortable.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

A pair of British 1930s "fishtails". These aren't quite so extremely sculpted as the version above ^^^.

bk

 

[Nick D]

Thank you all, that's what I was looking for.

Regards,
Nick

 

[mike]

I love this look! Has anyone ever gotten decent reproductions of this style?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

See Tomasso's post. Bespoke by the looks of 'em; not reproduction. The style never went away.

bk

 

[manton]

On Savile Row, these are called "brace tops." Every trouser cutter learns this pattern. All the tailors in New York know how to do it too. Italians typically don't know how to make it and don't wear it.

 

[MK]

.

Baron's example look more like something I could live with. The other looks too warm for me. My lower back needs to breath a bit more than that. I think the higher one is not as flatering...at least for my build.

 

[scotrace]

I think the ones BK is showing would help a fellow without much of a seat to look more, well, seated.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

As a man with a prominent seat, these really show it off as they're quite closely fitted around the kidneys and lower back. They are the best fitting pair of trousers i own, though that's more down to luck than cut, i think.

bk

 

[Will]

As a man with a few pair of these I will say that the cut of fishtail that you get is less important than consistancy from one pair of trousers to another so you don't have to adjust your braces every time you put on a pair of trousers.