Five Star Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.

  1. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,946
    Location:
    Europe
    Many thanks.
    Maybe I should give quilted a try. With heavy cotton, I'm sure that I like it.
     
  2. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,365
    Location:
    Chicago
    Sending this off to Shawn with the spec sheet today. Will be done it the dark brown SXL when it’s ready. What did I miss?
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    My homegrown cordovan has also settled in well and this jacket now makes sense among the others in the closet. At some point down the road I will hit it with another coat of dye, particularly the sleeves.
    D4D4AD69-8826-465D-9025-443F66047171.jpeg
     
  3. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    1,946
    Location:
    Europe
    very cool. thank you for sharing.
     
  4. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,365
    Location:
    Chicago
    I figure this is very close to the Vanson Oxford I want and can’t seem to get them to build. Leather will be better (hopefully), fit should be better and, best of all, it’ll cost me less.
     
    Hobbes1 and Zoo like this.
  5. Hh121

    Hh121 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,766
    Do you measure armhole straight from armpit to shoulder seam?
     
  6. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,946
    Location:
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    then I want to share my details too.

    Leather: the new natural CXL with lot of grain. All hides should have the same thickness. So it shouldn't that the leather on the body is thinner than on the sleeves. Also it shouldn't that the leather on the front/back is thinner than on the opposite side.
    Lining: brown or khaki heavy duty cotton drill.
    Thread: brown or khaki?
    Zipper: Same as on the photos. Is it gun metal? It seems like these are the same zippers as the ones on my Cafe Racer (YKK with wire puller) (Picture 7 + 8)

    Details:
    • Please pay close attention to the details in the pictures.
    • Round shoulders like your A-2 jackets. This means that the shoulder to sleeve angle must be as flat as possible. (Picture 3)
    • All seams like on the pictures.
    • See pocket details on the chest pockets. Angle 75° (Pictures 1 + 5)
    • See pocket details on the hand warmer pockets. Angle 75° (Pictures 1 + 6 + 7)
    • Slightly rounded v-shape seams on the back like on the picture (Pictures 2 + 4 + 9)
    • Zips on sleeves inside forearms, single layer leather so that the forearm gusset is thin. Maybe with skived leather? Same as on my Cafe Racer (Pictures 10 + 4)
    • Slightly curved sleeves. Same as on my Cafe Racer (Pictures 1 + 4)
    • Collar same as on the pictures (Pictures 1 + 12)
    • The waistband at the back has a curve. That means the back is a little longer than the sides. The front of the original jacket is significantly shorter. But I don't want that. So better everything is straight as with my Cafe Racer but with only +1cm front drop. (Pictures 1 + 4 + 9)
    • Back yoke western style (Picture 11)

    Measurements:
    • Collar inner circumference: max. 45 cm (Pictures 1 + 12 + others)
    • Armhole: 27,5 cm (Picture 1)
    • Biceps: 22,5 cm (Picture 1)
    • Elbow 17,5 cm (Picture 1)
    • Arm cuff closed: 12,5 cm, open 15 cm (Picture 1)
    • Sleeve length: 71 cm (with 49 cm shoulder; 70 cm with 50 cm shoulder) (Picture 1)
    • Shoulder seam to seam: 49 cm with rounded shoulders (Pictures 2 + 11).
    • P2P: 58 cm (Picture 1)
    • Natural waist: 49 cm (Picture 1)
    • Hem: 49 cm (Picture 1)
    • Height between hem and natural waist: 26 cm. Please be careful about this. (Picture 1)
    • Back length: max. 67 cm (Picture 1)
    • Front drop: +1 cm; Front drop has to start at the v-shape seams on the back. (Pictures 1 + 9)
    • Chest pocket: 19,5 cm to the inner edge from throat collar seam. Angle 75°. (Pictures 1 + 5)
    • Hand warmer pockets: with zipper, angle 75° (Pictures 1 + 6 + 7)
    • Zipper length chest pocket: 14 cm (Pictures 1 + 5)
    • Zipper length forearms: 18 cm (Picture 10)
    • Zipper length hand warmer pockets: 18,5 cm (Pictures 1 + 6 + 7)
    This kind of jacket must be really trim fit. so please be carefully about all measurements. Also for the collar because with my trucker jacket the collar circumference is a little big.
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    Alexlutov, Jin431, 4444Design and 7 others like this.
  7. Riu

    Riu Practically Family

    Messages:
    697
    Location:
    UK
    Probably it's just a matter of preference but to me, two layers of leather in the sleeve gussets were a bit too much when fully zipped.

    IMG_52491.jpg

    IMG_5282.JPG
     
    Jin431, handymike, Pandemic and 3 others like this.
  8. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,365
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yes, as much as possible.
     
    Hh121 likes this.
  9. Riu

    Riu Practically Family

    Messages:
    697
    Location:
    UK
    Beautiful colour on the leather in the first picture. Leather jacket programming instructions spot on :) Looking forward to seeing some results.
     
    MrProper likes this.
  10. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,365
    Location:
    Chicago
    I never close the zips:)
     
    Riu likes this.
  11. Riu

    Riu Practically Family

    Messages:
    697
    Location:
    UK
    Say no more :)
     
  12. 4444Design

    4444Design One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    191
    Location:
    Germany
    5Star G1 after about 4 weeks of wear ...

    simply loving it ...

    [​IMG]
     
    navetsea, jonesy86, Riu and 8 others like this.
  13. 4444Design

    4444Design One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    191
    Location:
    Germany
    all 5 Star ...


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    [​IMG]
     
    Hobbes1, Alexlutov, navetsea and 7 others like this.
  14. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,946
    Location:
    Europe
    I once made a vest. let's see what schawn says about it.
    the fabric on my photomontage should be seal-colored steerhide. The reinforcements too.
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  15. Cornelius

    Cornelius Practically Family

    Messages:
    703
    Location:
    Great Lakes
    I have a work vest with that exact pocket layout. Given my experience with that vest, I would suggest considering making the upper pockets deeper, & with at least one of them having a zip closure or flap that snaps or buttons closed.

    Otherwise anything placed in those pockets will fall out the moment you bend forward, say, to tie your shoe. A secure closing chest pocket large enough for a smartphone or at least a notebook seems appropriate for such a design in 2021.
     
    Berto, MrProper and Jin431 like this.
  16. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,946
    Location:
    Europe
    Many thanks for sharing your practical experience.
    I can well imagine a zipper on one of the upper pockets.
    To be honest, with the pockets it is more about the appearance than functionality, because I transport everything in my trouser pockets lol
    btw. dessign of the pockets was stolen from the worker vests from filson and though duck.
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    Fonzie likes this.
  17. FL2021

    FL2021 Familiar Face

    Messages:
    64
    Anyone had some luck with connecting with Shawn today? Is there normally a better time?
     
  18. Grasp loo paper

    Grasp loo paper New in Town

    Messages:
    27
    Just arrived today. Cossack in cream Shawn “CXL”. The leather feels nice and a little sandy. Nice character and marks where we scratch it. The color is not as I expected though. And for some reason even having let a few cm here and there for a comfortable fit, my arm movement is restricted forward and up and it pulls the jacket up. Perhaps needs to break in? I’m really annoyed by the restrictions. For the rest I’m happy.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. FL2021

    FL2021 Familiar Face

    Messages:
    64
    Nice Jacket..!!!!

    I just received my Cossack but in Preminum Goat, Had the same issue with the Arm Restriction, jacket lifting up, etc.
    What measurement did you give Shawn for the Across or Around the Shoulder Socket? Might be that..
     
  20. Grasp loo paper

    Grasp loo paper New in Town

    Messages:
    27
    I gave 44 cm shoulder (I am 43)
    Gave 108 chest (I’m 96)
    And gave armhole 25cm (50cm) I have extra space everywhere. It feels it’s tightening my forearm when lifting my arm up (sleeve slips up) but I have let extra cm everywhere perhaps the pattern?
     

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