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Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.
It's great. Wore it quite a bit through spring. I'll post some pictures next week.
We should create a broken in five-star jacket thread .Only post if at least 4 months old worn often
Congratulations. Looks like a perfect fit. nice jacket
I've been looking at these photos all night last night... and it just hit me...
A pattern block that fits like that is not as simple as numbers. Mr Tony has gone through HUNDREDS of heavy leather jackets from different makers over the years. Just google and see the images that shows up. To get this fit with the heavy leather isn't as easy as copying an Aero jacket or a Vanson jacket. If my guess is right, his custom pattern block is his experience of Vanson, Johnson, Aero, and vintage all mixed in one. How big the action back pleats, shape and number of panels of the back...etc. all worked to make this pattern block. It's easier to fill out a thinner jacket with gym body and look good, total different ball game with heavy leather. This is foundation for the perfect jacket. Well done.
see that little tuck right above the half belt, I think that's what made it. for both mobility and look.
I sent Shawn some Horween Vermont HH in the 3/4 oz weight. It's like the LUX hide that SB had. Thick and super soft. This is my cheat for the heavy jacket that fits, for now. I'll post some photos of jacket once the leather gets to him and he's done with it. This would be a lot more wearable, until I find my perfect block to build that 2mm monster.
We can ask Shawn to copy this leather if thick and soft is preferred.
Oh my sweet baby jesus, that's a mighty fine piece of leather, and it has a nice aroma? Skive that sucker down to 2oz which I'm sure he can do... man oh man...
And you sure it's the jacket that's creaking and not your joints trying to cope with that beast? lol jk.
Many thanks for your support.
This journey was amazing and I'll repeat.
Rofl, the hate in you is strong. I love what 5* is doing, but let's not get ahead of ourselves here, all makers including 5* don't always get the fit right. You inherent the risk with 5*, and the low price reflects that, other makers inherent the risk, hence the higher price.
That'd be sweet, I mean heck just skiving down Tony's leather would be fine as well.
I think this is going to open up another Pandora's Box, but can anyone source some Shinki and send it to Shawn, I mean, since we're asking, lol.
that's why I said above, no risk for go to JL, you get a mock up jacket plus if they got the finished jacket wrong they will make you a new one for free. That's the experience from other members, so why you are so sensitive??
Yup, that's what you said. Not sensitive at all, just pointing out you really go out of your way to talk about JL, which I find amusing, they must've really burned you for you to go out of your way to always bring them up.
Anyway, don't want to derail this thread because Ton's new jacket is ahhhhmazing.
That’s a cool idea but well worn jackets are one of the hardest things to come by on this forum.
I know I am quite guilty of this myself, about the time the first arm creases are setting in on a new jacket I am already looking down the road at the next one…
sure, if I can get some guarantee from manufacturer, always nice. But that would only be on their mistakes. What I'm talking about is laypeople who aren't trained on clothing design and tailoring making honest mistakes
BTW, my thoughts that I mentioned weren't to say that 5 Star should remake jackets on their or our mistake. I was saying I'm not sure if there's a cultural issue with how they take the orders and are just going by the book of exactly what you ordered. An example of this as Ton mentioned/recommended adjusting the sleeve dimensions because of the thickness of the leather. I don't think anyone would expect Ton to know this when ordering, especially on a new leather he hasn't handled yet. Yet Five Star should know this. Especially since they've made him several jackets. All it would take is a quick, hey, I know we've built several of these for you, but FYI, this leather is really thick and in our experience you'll need a little extra room for the sleeve bending, etc. etc.
That being said, as was also mentioned, they do a great job of transitioning the measurements in the sort of in between spaces that aren't being spec'd out. That takes real talent. So good job there.
We are freaks on these forums buying more jackets than is humanely possible to wear. Most "regular" customers probably won't reorder after spending a few hundred bucks and getting something that is hard to wear or something they didn't realize they were making a mistake by requesting something or neglecting something without realizing the full scope.
That's the ying and yang of this niche. If you get it right, you're way ahead. If you get it wrong, you were halfway or third of a way to just buying a higher end jacket instead. I'll reserve for those who cannot order off the shelf, buy used sizes, etc. of course as that's a huge advantage to trying.
I totally get it, I was having the same thoughts when I did my first 5star. Unfortunately, you can only learn from yourself and spec your jacket better next time. My first jacket is 4.5-5 oz Horween and the elbow is too slim because they are still using the same spec they are using for thin leather, I learned that and spec wilder elbow on my 6oz jacket, turns out just fine, I enjoy the process very much, and learns a lot from other members.
Ah you give me far too much credit bro! The full AB I thought was an absolute must and I wanted the back to be similar to my Vanson model E (with the seam to bring the sides of the back in a bit). I like your idea about the vermont...I plan on asking Shawn if he can soften the black hide before it becomes a jacket.
I'd be lying if I said my arms weren't sore this morning, it might have well been my bones getting ready to give up the ghost. Tonight I'm going to beat the shit out of the sleeves with a rubber mallet. Nothing to see here...Totally normal thing to do.
I agree, skiving down a couple ounces while keeping this recipe would greatly enhance his current cowhide offerings. 5.5oz leather is...something. I'm not sure I would even call it a piece of clothing. I would liken it more to wearing a chainmail tunic. It's not an everyday affair.
part of my j82 spec
I meant to say, at first I thought the elbow/lower arm looked too wide on your jacket but after getting mine I completely get it and would change that measurement accordingly as well. I did go up a bit from my other jackets, just about 1/2" shy of optimal for keeping a trim sleeve but not breaking my arms.
It does visually because the stiff leather won't stay flat, I measured with my JL cross zip, it is almost the same (JL is even little bigger)
From the later pics you poste I could see it settled. That was a good call. Just like heavy denim, sleeves that are too trim in heavy leather are arm busters.