Five Star Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.

  1. Tark

    Tark New in Town

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Canada
    Okay, my customized buffalo AN-6552 is here and here are my thoughts, with some photos (sorry no fit pics!)...

    - The initial leather smell is reminiscent of cigarettes and tires and I hope it'll fade to something more "leathery".
    - The seal buffalo feels nice and grainy; it's as flexible as Aero's goatskin and I didn't feel any difference in wearability stiffness; instead what is stiffer is the drape when the jacket is worn open which I hope will drape better in a few months. The topcoat has a matte look and the topcoat feel is like rubber for better or worse.
    - I was initially put off by the subtly larger fit because I was wearing Aero's size 36 M-422A jacket for the past 9 months, which ran small (but very flattering) and is more like a size 34 or 32 with an 18.25 inch pit-to-pit measure. By comparison this jacket is a hybrid size 36/38 and runs truer to size as I gave Shawn exact measurements. This combined with the stiffer drape didn't look all that hot to me, so hopefully my brain will break in the look as well. However, this means that I can zip this up even with Aero's submariner or RAF sweaters and make this jacket wearable in winter.
    - The mouton collar is nicer than Aero's IMO. I asked Shawn for mouton that was "extra thick" and got something that looks and feels pretty luxurious with 10mm fleece. The color I asked was "grey brown", but it's dark brown with mid-brown undertones--completely different and nicer than what's shown on the options page. I've attached a photo comparing the grey brown with Aero's dark brown. In comparison Aero's mouton with its bluish shade is more fitting of being called "grey brown".
    - The liner has a straight red shade and feels rougher than Aero's satin cotton wine red liner. If I were to get a future Five Star military jacket, I'd definitely get the lining in the wine red polyester which my pocket bags are made of.

    Five Star did a great job here, and being able to give Shawn exact measurements avoids the "sizing lottery" if the manufacturer can't measure their sizes, or having to do a routine of getting fit jackets mailed. Just remember to get the really nice and thick leathers Shawn has (1.3mm buffalo and maybe his 1.4mm premium goatskin to my knowledge) and you're good to go.

    PXL_20210921_225247986.jpg PXL_20210921_225311067.jpg PXL_20210921_224802392.jpg PXL_20210921_231930411.jpg PXL_20210921_225420921.jpg
    [​IMG] PXL_20210921_224951939.jpg PXL_20210921_231121731.jpg PXL_20210921_224852761.jpg PXL_20210921_230954624.jpg PXL_20210921_225150517.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2021
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  2. Aloysius

    Aloysius A-List Customer

    Messages:
    382
    Great and very informative post, @Tark!

    It's interesting that you note the greyness of Aero's dark brown mouton, because while I would want something more 'richly' brown on most jackets, it makes it well suited to black jackets because it has an almost midnight-blue (blacker than black) effect.

    Out of curiosity, why did you go with drill lining instead of rayon (as typical for naval jackets)?
     
  3. Tark

    Tark New in Town

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Canada
    As for the drill lining, my experience with rayon was in a U.S. Authentic A-2 I ordered a year and a half ago, which felt pretty flimsy and I wasn't convinced at the time of ordering that Five Star's wine satin polyester would be different. Now that I'm proven wrong, I definitely wished I'd gotten Shawn's crew to use polyester instead!
     
  4. Webafile

    Webafile One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    111
    Fitment jacket came in and I will tweek a few things like making biceps and elbow and chest larger and wrists a little smaller
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. TREEMAN

    TREEMAN One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,861
    Location:
    USA
    That ought to fix it rite up …
     
  6. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda Practically Family

    Messages:
    765
    That's really nice fur collar!
    Can you post some progress photos of the seal buffalo in a few month please? I am wondering how this leather wears? Like does it have a reddish brown core under the seal coat? Or is it greyish brown all the way through? Thanks.

    Looking good.
    So how does the fit jacket with Shawn work? Do you have to send it back to him? Or just use photos?
     
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  7. Tark

    Tark New in Town

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Canada
    Yeah of course. I'm not sure how fast buffalo wears but I heard it's similar to goatskin. As a preview here's the zipper pull, which shows a core layer that looks brighter than the suede side

    PXL_20210922_173647598.jpg
     
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  8. Webafile

    Webafile One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    111
    The fitment Ja

    Use it for photos and measurements that I sent back to him on what needs changing. So instead of getting a leather jacket that you wish was a little. X,y,z you get this. Take photos and send back comments. At least that how I'm doing it.
     
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  9. PilotJens

    PilotJens One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    148
    Does someone has a good experience with the quilted winter lining? I want to make a black CHL coat but I don't know if one layer of quilting is enough .I will add a additional layer of 500gsm fabric on top of the quilted lining to hide that in my opinion ugly stuff (no offense).
    Thanks for any input
     
  10. Aloysius

    Aloysius A-List Customer

    Messages:
    382
    Quilted linings in leather and waxed cotton jackets don't do much in the way of insulation (nor, for that matter, does having a "500 gsm fabric" lining, even my 16 oz Fox's flannel suits don't work as a winter layer). Quilted linings mostly help you block wind, and stave off some borderline chill.

    If you actually want to stay warm in winter with a leather jacket, you either need to layer another jacket/waistcoat underneath (a lightweight down is a good choice), or the jacket itself needs to be shearling or some other fur. Even quilted lining with wool fabric covering it won't do very much by comparison.
     
  11. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,365
    Location:
    Chicago
    I've found the opposite to be true. Nearly all my vintage stuff is quilt lined (wool backed), as is my Vanson (poly backed), and it's incredibly (almost) too warm. The stuff Shawn uses is thinner nylon quilt. Warmer than plain old cotton drill but not nearly as warm as any of the other linings I have.
     
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  12. Aloysius

    Aloysius A-List Customer

    Messages:
    382
    My experience has been the opposite (though I’ve had warm quilted jackets) but in this particular case (Five Star’s quilted lining) I don’t think we disagree.
     
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  13. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,365
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yeah, it’s thin.
     
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  14. crispyfresh

    crispyfresh New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    I want a customized jacket. Is it best to contact Fivestar in this thread or email them from their website?
     
  15. Jin431

    Jin431 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,915
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    SHawn Ali
    Shawn.fivestarleather@gmail.com
     
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  16. crispyfresh

    crispyfresh New in Town

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    17
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  17. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    1,946
    Location:
    Europe
    Otherwise, I can recommend Facebook Messenger. That's where I get the fastest responses.
     
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  18. Hobbes1

    Hobbes1 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    222
    Coming soon….

    466E93D4-30AA-4E7D-91F7-8922B54C9BE9.jpeg 327F655F-5CA7-462E-BDCD-A53548948150.jpeg
     
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  19. leper-colony

    leper-colony New in Town

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    Location:
    Tampa Bay
  20. Hobbes1

    Hobbes1 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    222
    Dear Sir
    Its Naturally Drum Dyed leather all the way through.
    This is improved CHL Light Brown shade thickness 1.7 mm pictures taken in proper lighting
    With Best Wishes and Gratitude
    Shawn Ali
    Director
    FIVESTAR LEATHER Co.0
    upload_2021-9-25_15-20-13.jpeg

     
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