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Five Star Leather Jackets

Hobbes1

One of the Regulars
Messages
291
@Hobbes1 The riveted coat hanger is a nice touch! I've gotta burrow your idea on my future 5star builds. What lining is this? Wool? Natural CHL 2.0 looks softer and deeper color than the first version. Good grains.
The extra stitching on the back of the neck - Did Shawn mention difficulty doing this with the thicker CHL leather?

Hi. That is a wool lining for the body and satin for the sleeves. I actually didn't spec riveted for the hanger...at first, they forgot to include a hanger and had to go back and do it later. My guess is that the leather is too thick to sew through easily and so rivets might be the most reliable way to get a long term hold.
Shawn did say that this was an improved CHL version and that it's drum dyed "all the way through" so it seems like it should not have a topcoat. Maybe I need to verify that with him.
Anyway, Shawn did say that this was a very challenging build and that sewing with this heavier leather very difficult. I think they were glad it's done LOL. It has taken about 5 weeks of back and forth to get it completed as they put wrong buttons on and forgot the internal pocket I had spec'd. I'm guessing there was a lot of swearing involved with this one :)
Shawn didn't specifically say the neck stitching was any more problematic than anywhere else, but I'm guessing that was the case. I didn't specify they had to do that but maybe it was to necessary to make the collar come out right.

Here I was thinking that the 1.7mm was gonna be easier than the time they must have had with the 2.0mm leather but it sounds like it was still painful. Anyway, they got it done and it's on its way here. Fingers crossed it fits well.
 
Messages
14,190
Location
Chicago
Hi. That is a wool lining for the body and satin for the sleeves. I actually didn't spec riveted for the hanger...at first, they forgot to include a hanger and had to go back and do it later. My guess is that the leather is too thick to sew through easily and so rivets might be the most reliable way to get a long term hold.
Shawn did say that this was an improved CHL version and that it's drum dyed "all the way through" so it seems like it should not have a topcoat. Maybe I need to verify that with him.
Anyway, Shawn did say that this was a very challenging build and that sewing with this heavier leather very difficult. I think they were glad it's done LOL. It has taken about 5 weeks of back and forth to get it completed as they put wrong buttons on and forgot the internal pocket I had spec'd. I'm guessing there was a lot of swearing involved with this one :)
Shawn didn't specifically say the neck stitching was any more problematic than anywhere else, but I'm guessing that was the case. I didn't specify they had to do that but maybe it was to necessary to make the collar come out right.

Here I was thinking that the 1.7mm was gonna be easier than the time they must have had with the 2.0mm leather but it sounds like it was still painful. Anyway, they got it done and it's on its way here. Fingers crossed it fits well.
Man I'm super tempted to order a "Hobbes1". Jacket turned out spectacular!
 

PilotJens

One of the Regulars
Messages
158
Those stiff leathers are a complete nightmare to people that normally work with glove leathers or originally come from fabric sewing companies .The angle of attack is different because you cannot bunch the material or fold it away. The goat and steer can be sewn like a dense fabric.
I am amazed that the stiching looks so freaking good
 

Hobbes1

One of the Regulars
Messages
291
Those stiff leathers are a complete nightmare to people that normally work with glove leathers or originally come from fabric sewing companies .The angle of attack is different because you cannot bunch the material or fold it away. The goat and steer can be sewn like a dense fabric.
I am amazed that the stiching looks so freaking good

I asked Shawn what he thought was the “best” leather for this coat after mine was completed. He said “steerhide up to 1.4mm thickness maximum “. I think if I have another crosszip made, it would be with their premium goat as I like my CR from them with that. Anyway, here’s hoping that this jacket fits me well and that the leather is good and looks good in my lighting LOL!
 

Canuck Panda

One Too Many
Messages
1,547
@Hobbes1 It took a few jackets to get there but I think you might be getting what the CHL jacket was meant to be. The stitching looked very solid on your jacket, especially the top stitches on the back of the neck. Aero won't do this much top stitch on the heavier leather (their trucker jacket), and China jacket I just got is thick but stitching is no good. So it seems that Shawn has figured out a way to stitch these thicker leather. Now we just have to wait to see how the new CHL feels. Please share your thoughts when you get it. Thanks!

Just to think a few months ago is when this CHL leather came out. Now we are getting into the second generation already. I am glad to be part of this process even my first generation ones didn't play out as expected. Good stuff.
 

MrProper

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,343
Location
Europe
@MrProper I've just seen your 5star Shearling jacket pics and they do look great. My favorite one is the first one (vest)! Fit is perfect as usual!
Thank you very much, very kind :)
My next project will hopefully be this one:
E6F8CD65-DEEC-4DC9-91D1-20F9A7FE5E4C.jpeg

In this shearling.
339DA439-8392-4FA3-A0E5-929DFED3BF1E.jpeg

Provided that some details are possible.
 
Messages
14,190
Location
Chicago
I asked Shawn what he thought was the “best” leather for this coat after mine was completed. He said “steerhide up to 1.4mm thickness maximum “. I think if I have another crosszip made, it would be with their premium goat as I like my CR from them with that. Anyway, here’s hoping that this jacket fits me well and that the leather is good and looks good in my lighting LOL!
Please post some pics when it arrives. I think this is the high water mark for 5 Star thus far. Fit pics too. The jacket just looks better engineered than most I’ve seen and ordered/received.
 

f2002q

Familiar Face
Messages
71
You need separate accounts my friend; his, hers and theirs.

We have the separate accounts. The real problem is how do I bring this Irvin in the house? The second she sees it, she will pull out her concealed 38 and shoot me between the eyes!! I have "appeared" stuff in the house before, but this is too conspicuous to say that I forgot it was hanging in the closet.
 
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