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Five Star Leather Jackets

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,795
The Thedi has pocket proportion problems. The flaps are undersized compared to the size of the actual pocket.
I agree. That's exactly why I asked Theodoros to shrink the pockets for my latest cossack. These are much better proportioned imo.

070E70BA-34ED-4799-95B6-C13B7A68B02D.jpeg

Gussets don’t bother me in the least. That style back looks great imo.
Gussets in general don't bother me, it's just that AFAIK these type of gussets weren't invented yet in the 30s.
 

uncia

New in Town
Messages
6
I agree. That's exactly why I asked Theodoros to shrink the pockets for my latest cossack. These are much better proportioned imo.

View attachment 429251

Gussets in general don't bother me, it's just that AFAIK these type of gussets weren't invented yet in the 30s.
Hands down a beautiful Jacket you have there IMHO. Lots of details I like in the sets of pictures from April. Not sure about pocket sizing though. Like it on some pictures - on others I thougt a size in between Thedi's and yours would be my preference - ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .
Also starting to think this forum could be a "dangerous" place ;-); lots of interesing ideas & beautiful designs.
Still I wonder... in what price range is a jacket like this with this kind of customizations ?
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,795
Hands down a beautiful Jacket you have there IMHO. Lots of details I like in the sets of pictures from April. Not sure about pocket sizing though. Like it on some pictures - on others I thougt a size in between Thedi's and yours would be my preference - ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .
Also starting to think this forum could be a "dangerous" place ;-); lots of interesing ideas & beautiful designs.
Still I wonder... in what price range is a jacket like this with this kind of customizations ?
Answered in the Thedi thread. Let's keep this thread about 5*
 

uncia

New in Town
Messages
6
Then back to a 5* Question ;-)... I was wondering about the "CHL" Leather offered by 5* e.g. with their Cossack Jacket and pilot helmet bag. I'd like to try it out, but was wondering if there is any known issue with (extensive) "color rub off" / "color transfer" with that kind of leather.

I have several garments and bags made of pull up leather and have very different experiences with them: Some are very "color stable" (you would have to rub for a really long time to see any transfer, if at all) some are like ink pads: once rubbed past a pair of light-colored pants, you have a stain...

Does anyone have experience how the 5* CHL behaves?
 
Messages
14,408
Location
Chicago
Then back to a 5* Question ;-)... I was wondering about the "CHL" Leather offered by 5* e.g. with their Cossack Jacket and pilot helmet bag. I'd like to try it out, but was wondering if there is any known issue with (extensive) "color rub off" / "color transfer" with that kind of leather.

I have several garments and bags made of pull up leather and have very different experiences with them: Some are very "color stable" (you would have to rub for a really long time to see any transfer, if at all) some are like ink pads: once rubbed past a pair of light-colored pants, you have a stain...

Does anyone have experience how the 5* CHL behaves?
It’s stiffer than most boot leather. Makes for a very hard to wear jacket. I think Shawn has abandoned it? I would ask about the new, soft, 2.2mm cow instead. The 2.2 mm HH is superb. Really nice stuff, unobtainable anywhere else at the price point. It compares favorably with LW’s 4oz HH.
While it’s advertised as 5 oz it feels much closer to 4.
 
Messages
14,408
Location
Chicago
I agree. That's exactly why I asked Theodoros to shrink the pockets for my latest cossack. These are much better proportioned imo.

View attachment 429251

Gussets in general don't bother me, it's just that AFAIK these type of gussets weren't invented yet in the 30s.
Yes this looks much better to my eye. I also like the button spacing better than the other Thedi and the five star.
 

Aloysius

Practically Family
Messages
880
It’s stiffer than most boot leather. Makes for a very hard to wear jacket. I think Shawn has abandoned it? I would ask about the new, soft, 2.2mm cow instead. The 2.2 mm HH is superb. Really nice stuff, unobtainable anywhere else at the price point. It compares favorably with LW’s 4oz HH.
While it’s advertised as 5 oz it feels much closer to 4.

Damn it, Tony. We had a perfect opportunity to meme him into ordering a full wardrobe of CHL from hat to hot pants.
 

uncia

New in Town
Messages
6
[...] to hot pants.
don't know if I'd ever like any kind of leather that much ;-).

However, I have thought about ordering from CHL a bag, perhaps slightly larger than the pilots helmet, bag.
Leather quality / durability should basically be right. Only I just could not use a bag that in normal condition (not wet, etc.) rubs color off on (hot)pants or jacket...
 

Aloysius

Practically Family
Messages
880
don't know if I'd ever like any kind of leather that much ;-).

However, I have thought about ordering from CHL a bag, perhaps slightly larger than the pilots helmet, bag.
Leather quality / durability should basically be right. Only I just could not use a bag that in normal condition (not wet, etc.) rubs color off on (hot)pants or jacket...

All joking aside, CHL is an abomination of a leather.
 

Spiney

One of the Regulars
Messages
125
Anyone have any experience of their ‘genuine and high quality steerhide’ ? Looking at trying one of their jackets , standard sizing seems like it would work for me too so it’s an easy buy if the leather is ok .
 

Canuck Panda

One Too Many
Messages
1,641
Anyone has the full veg tan goatskin? How is the leather? I’m thinking an rough out unlined pointy collar button Cossack or hand dyed black and unlined inside.

The owner of the Cossack if you see this can you please post a measuring pic of the shoulder slope like this
E137F5B9-110C-476A-BFC2-746E1AB9AF3B.jpeg

The shoulder width across number looks tight but the actual shoulder length in slope might work. Very misleading but I have a 5Star with 18” shoulder that wears the same as 19” because the shoulder height is taller. If this isn’t the case then I’d also need a full action back on the Cossack. Thanks.
 
Messages
14,408
Location
Chicago
Anyone have any experience of their ‘genuine and high quality steerhide’ ? Looking at trying one of their jackets , standard sizing seems like it would work for me too so it’s an easy buy if the leather is ok .
The house steer is decent. I’ve had two. I liked the seal a bit more than the black.
 

PilotJens

One of the Regulars
Messages
160
The sizing is accurate in terms of measurements .I would not trust the sleeve pattern . I think they are quite tubular /big .Maybe just take the sleeve measurements from a existing jacket .Maybe someone can chime in on that .Mine were big and tubular when they matched my arm hole a cuff opening to a existing pattern and some other had similar sleeves when they ordered stock
 
Messages
14,408
Location
Chicago
^
Agreed! By default, the 5 Star sleeve is a pant leg. I believe this is a by product of making so many military styles, which have similar balloon sleeves.
 

Canuck Panda

One Too Many
Messages
1,641
The trucker has big ish biceps like the rest of the 5Star sleeve patterns, but there are two snap setting at the cuff so it can slim down at the wrist:
DC206586-B922-4E94-94C2-A18D325CBB18.jpeg


The slimmest 5Star sleeve pattern I’ve got is the Sheene copy. It came (stock) with 7.5” biceps but not a lot of taper even with the wrist zipped.
E75BB3BD-BE8D-4524-B007-F5E83391D3FE.jpeg

Now looking at these two photos side by side I’ve finally realized why the chest pockets are so ”high” on the Sheene. They are basically the same location as the trucker but the trucker looks lower with the flap. I might add those flaps to my Sheene now… hmm…

Anyways, all my 5stars, regardless “custom” or not comes with 8.5” ish biceps sleeves. Some tapers down to 5” upon special request, but default is 6” I believe. The best for my size would be 5.5” unzipped (for watch clearance), and 4.5” zipped (for wind tight). The bottom of armhole to neck is always 12” plus or minus 0.5”. The sleeve attachment angle mostly is in the middle, no aggressive /\ or T shape sleeves angle. The Sheene copy has most aggressive sleeve angle and slimmest bicep sleeves but it needs action back. The thicker leather doesn’t work well without back pleats On this pattern.
 

Spiney

One of the Regulars
Messages
125
It’s stiffer than most boot leather. Makes for a very hard to wear jacket. I think Shawn has abandoned it? I would ask about the new, soft, 2.2mm cow instead. The 2.2 mm HH is superb. Really nice stuff, unobtainable anywhere else at the price point. It compares favorably with LW’s 4oz HH.
While it’s advertised as 5 oz it feels much closer to 4.
Shawn sent me a message today informing me that the 2.2mm leather will be available again in a week. Actually, he didn’t mention if it was cow or horse !
 

barnabus

Practically Family
Messages
960
Location
london
Two questions:

Does anyone have a jacket in Five*'s goat?

What are your thoughts, if so?

Has anyone had chance to heavily wear a Five* jacket for a while, daily, say, and how is it holding up?

That's three questions, isn't it?

Four, now.
 

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