Five star ordering advice needed - East West repro

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by red devil, Oct 28, 2020.

  1. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    So,
    It seems to be clear that you need to be very precise with Shawn. And, I am not nearly as precise as quite a few members here hence the call for help :)

    I am looking at redoing the smoke

    upload_2020-10-28_11-54-57.jpeg

    upload_2020-10-28_11-55-14.jpeg

    upload_2020-10-28_11-55-34.jpeg

    I have already been quoted for this jacket using one of the stock leathers. I could have any colour in goat for an extra $150, but that doesn't make it worthwhile for this initial attempt. So I will probably go for their lightest shade of brown or black... not sure yet. What do you guys think?

    In terms of measurements, I am thinking of using this one as a base, as it is an East West repro after all

    [​IMG]

    So calling on all of you to help with that!

    On a final note, I had thought of asking for the rover, but thought it might be a tad too ambitious to start with

    [​IMG]

    Or the Seven Arrows even more so

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,182
    The original smoke jacket seems a longer style than your eastwest repro. I think shortening the middle section might make the smoke jacket more suitable for your build. C87908C2-F115-4E32-90F8-E4CC3B4C69B0.jpeg
     
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  3. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Chicago
    WOW man!! You are REALLY stepping up the degree of difficulty! I LOVE it and will likely order one of these myself after you have it built! Measure your jacket with a tape and take pictures. If you want to make adjustments take note of where and mark-up those adjustments directly on the picture. Be super precise about how you want the seams done. Insist on consistent weight of the leather throughout the jacket.
     
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  4. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    Agreed, If I am not mistaken Jelado did just that, what do you think? :)

    [​IMG]

    Yeah, the idea is to go all the way. I am going to finalise the specs in this thread and send them as is. Hence why, need all the help I can get :)

    Will post the measurements when I get the chance and we can take it form there.
     
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  5. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    Do you think they are up to the detail work? I hope so- I’ll be anxiously waiting along with you (2 weeks ;)).
     
    red devil likes this.
  6. Bonefish Jim

    Bonefish Jim New in Town

    Messages:
    19
    I am mystified by the desirability of these East West Musical Instrument jackets. They were not particularly well made. I had one hanging in my closet for 40+ years. As new and unworn, I sold it for a big number.
     
  7. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    Cuz they are so bitchin...
    1CD4B4A9-1F6D-4CDA-A7A4-F6CF0064BCDC.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2020
  8. ton312

    ton312

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    10,980
    Location:
    Chicago
    That hide looks exactly like Shawn's seal brown...Screen Grab complete. I'm building that, or rather...he is.
     
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  9. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    344
    Just be precise. I want the pockets placed 1 inch from the bottom, 3/4 inch off center of the zipper, etc. Collar needs to be X amount wide and should be stiff, floppy, whatever. Literally break your jacket down into pieces and give details on each piece. What kind/size zipper you want. Sleeves, how wide on the biceps, how wide on the forearms, how wide on the wrist opening. If you want even thickness on the leather everywhere, or do you want certain pieces thinner or thicker.

    Last bit of advice on the design because this is what ultimately screwed up my job, don't trust the colors on his website. He's using flash photography and it's not capturing correctly. Don't assume red is red and green is green. I know it sounds like we're being super nerdy or picky, but you can go to the other thread and read about 20 pages of little "mistakes" that some of us wish we would have clarified.

    Once you get all the design details, then you really need to make sure about your own measurements. Get your best 2 or 3 fitting jackets and lay them on the floor and take measurements of the key area (p2p, shoulder, back length you want, neck circumference, sleeve length, etc.). Take pics of the tape so it's clear when you say I want 23 p2p, he can look at that photo and see how your 23 was referenced.

    I would go all in on the leather. That's not going to affect his ability to nail the design. Last thing you want is for him to do a good job and then not be happy with the leather and you have to start all over again. He's done some nice detail work. Look up Jonesey's Sunset jacket. That had a lot of detail. So I don't think that's going to be the main concern. But I wouldn't get anything less than the premium goat or premium steer/cow.
     
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  10. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    I still need to take the time to specify everything, but once it goes, should be fun :)

    I personally like their crazy designs as @handymike mentionned. Not keen to pay the crazy prices for originals

    Thanks for all the advice, I am taking this jacket as a test run to see what comes out, that's why I am not so sure about going all out in the leather yet.
     
  11. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    So these are the measurements I am loooking at

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Thedi
    Neck 18"
    Shoulders 19"
    Chest P2P 21.5"
    Waist 20.5"
    Hem 21.5"
    Sleeve 25.5
    Sleeve: 18.5"
    Biceps 7.5"
    Elbows 7"
    Cuff 6"
    Armscye 11"

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Little Wing
    Neck 18"
    Shoulders 18.5"
    Chest P2P 21"
    Waist 19.5"
    Hem 19.5"
    Sleeve 25"
    Sleeve: 19"
    Biceps 7"
    Elbows 6.5"
    Cuff 5.5"
    Armscye 10.5"

    Not so easy to take measurements, the leather and how well you can spread it adds quite a bit of variability. But in general, do these measurements make sense for a size 42 overall?
     
  12. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    344
    what's your actual chest size? You got to give like .25 inch on the p2p for the leather/lining and then some more for what you plan to wear underneath, and then I think another .5 to 1 just so you can breathe : )

    Biceps seem tight. Mine were 7.5 to 7.75 and there's just enough wiggle room. I think my actual bicep measurement is like 14.

    what's the 2 different sleeve measurements?

    That waist and hem measurement going to give you a straight line in the body, not the flare out you have in your examples. So you have to take in the mid section some or go bigger on the hem.
     
  13. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    606
    For me the measurements make sense for a 42.
    And now take a photo and draw the lines of the measurements and measurements itself on the photo.
    Like this
    6EDB5B9D-93EA-4964-9FE6-7B90E42A8F0B.jpeg
     
    Carlos840 likes this.
  14. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    My chest size is currently about 41", I am planning to only wear iit with t-shirts (I have enough warmer jackets, or jackets I can layer in).

    My biceps seem to be around 14" as well.

    Thanks will post a similar pic a bit later :)
     
  15. Bahabp100

    Bahabp100 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    171
    173FFCCE-77CA-4442-98BF-94C2D224D92C.jpeg
     
  16. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    Finally found the time to look into this, this is what I am looking at the moment

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    What do you guys think about the measurements?

    @ton312 , how does collar measurement work, I want something fitting :)

    Edit: I should probably add this so I don't get the wrong back! lol

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2020
    handymike, MrProper and ton312 like this.
  17. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,980
    Location:
    Chicago
    Oh this looks very promising indeed!!! I would include a measurement for the neckhole diameter, and one from the main zip to the collar point. I’d also include a measurement for the front drop. I can’t wait to see how this turns out. I will fire off my order for one instantly.
     
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  18. ton312

    ton312

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    10,980
    Location:
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    Edit: actually your drop is covered by the front length photo. Man this is really cool!!
     
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  19. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

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    606
    Perfect.
    Neckhole could be good as Ton mentioned
     
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  20. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,525
    Location:
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    Thanks! I am hesitating between this collar

    [​IMG]

    And this one

    [​IMG]

    So the collar measurement looks like this?

    [​IMG]

    I am 16,5" in neck size, what neck diameter should I look at? Is something like your 18" pretty standard?
     
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