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Footwear to go with our jackets

andyone

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
Location
Switzerland
thanks for sharing! I always wondered how dr soles work and the process is pretty straight forward but it's not cheap for sure(don't know how much a local cobbler would charge so I'm guessing it's most likely within the same range) not that I need any immediate resole job but it's great to know either way.
I don't know prices in other countries than Switzerland and Germany. Problem here in Switzerland is that there is no cobbler I would trust doing a rebuild like that. And woodman heels are the type of heels you don't often see here, therefore I am not sure a cobbler would do it right. There is a guy in Germany, Ingo Keller aka "Schuhgott" :) (https://www.schuhgott.de/) that could do it right. Prices seems to be in the same range for a rebuild like that.
So yes, it's not cheap, but it was worth it for me.
 

Fifty150

One Too Many
Messages
1,489
Location
The Barbary Coast
(don't know how much a local cobbler would charge so I'm guessing it's most likely within the same range)



I have used this shop in the past. They were able to restore my uniform duty boots with Vibram lug soles. Pretty standard work in the world of shoe repairs on military style boots with a Goodyear welt.

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There are videos on YouTube showing boot repairs.

 

dudewuttheheck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,619
I don't know prices in other countries than Switzerland and Germany. Problem here in Switzerland is that there is no cobbler I would trust doing a rebuild like that. And woodman heels are the type of heels you don't often see here, therefore I am not sure a cobbler would do it right. There is a guy in Germany, Ingo Keller aka "Schuhgott" :) (https://www.schuhgott.de/) that could do it right. Prices seems to be in the same range for a rebuild like that.
So yes, it's not cheap, but it was worth it for me.
One of the guys from Brass Tokyo lives in Germany now and does repairs. He does amazing work. @brasstokyo_masa on Instagram. I know that's not Switzerland, but it's the closest cobbler I would trust.
 

andyone

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
Location
Switzerland
One of the guys from Brass Tokyo lives in Germany now and does repairs. He does amazing work. @brasstokyo_masa on Instagram. I know that's not Switzerland, but it's the closest cobbler I would trust.
Ah yes, Masa. A really friendly guy - and I think he does really good work from what I've seen.
I have another boot he is working on for a "facelift" :). But he is more expensive than Dr. Sole.
 

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Flame Panda put out another batch of rtw and I found another pair in my size. They are in tan Horween CXL Tan. Oh man these are chunky.

I was expecting to go through the signature not so fun break in period of a pair of flame pandas but it came as a surprise that these boots are unlined. They are already very comfortable as soon as I put them on. I highly recommend to consider the unlined option if you don’t want to feel like wearing a pair of tanks for the first few months.

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Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,432
I've been looking for a pair of chunky boots that are non-Americana for a while, which wasn't all that easy because most quality made European style boots can be categorized as dress shoes/boots. I finally found these Silvano Sassetti Chukka boots which I think are awesome.

Silvano Sassetti is an Italian maker that is unknown to many, probably because they mostly produce shoes for fashion labels such as Ralph Lauren (Purple Label) or Tom Ford. They've been in the shoemaking business since 1977 and produce high quality shoes using different construction techniques ranging from cemented to more fancy construction techniques like Goodyear Welt or Norwegian.

They also sell shoes under their own 'Sassetti' label at various boutiques around Europe and Japan.

In terms of construction techniques these Chukka boots are not the fancies (Blake Rapid) but that doesn't mean these are of lesser quality than let's say a pair of Goodyear welted boots. I own a pair of Blake Rapid Ralph Lauren Engineer Boots made by Sassetti which I've been wearing regularly for over 10 years now and they're still going strong. The uppers are made of (very thick) pull up calf leather but they also have horsehide options. Also check out their sustainable brandline which offers shoes that are entirely made out of natural materials.

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Tom71

One Too Many
Messages
1,756
Location
Europe
I've been looking for a pair of chunky boots that are non-Americana for a while, which wasn't all that easy because most quality made European style boots can be categorized as dress shoes/boots. I finally found these Silvano Sassetti Chukka boots which I think are awesome.

Silvano Sassetti is an Italian maker that is unknown to many, probably because they mostly produce shoes for fashion labels such as Ralph Lauren (Purple Label) or Tom Ford. They've been in the shoemaking business since 1977 and produce high quality shoes using different construction techniques ranging from cemented to more fancy construction techniques like Goodyear Welt or Norwegian.

They also sell shoes under their own 'Sassetti' label at various boutiques around Europe and Japan.

In terms of construction techniques these Chukka boots are not the fancies (Blake Rapid) but that doesn't mean these are of lesser quality than let's say a pair of Goodyear welted boots. I own a pair of Blake Rapid Ralph Lauren Engineer Boots made by Sassetti which I've been wearing regularly for over 10 years now and they're still going strong. The uppers are made of (very thick) pull up calf leather but they also have horsehide options. Also check out their sustainable brandline which offers shoes that are entirely made out of natural materials.

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Very nice, Marc. They remind me a lot of my old Moma Boots. Also an Italian bookmaker, producing a lot of vintage inspired boots in a very nice calf leather. Only trouble (and the reason I eventually went back to British and American makers was) was the sloppy construction of the insides. All leathers too, but falling apart all to easily.
 

marker2037

Practically Family
Messages
763
Location
Curacao/NJ, USA
^^
Are these shell cordovan? How do you like Higgins Mill boots? I am looking at them.
No, these are not shell, they are buccaneer leather (almost identical to chromexcel although the site now says that burgundy is chromexcel, however when they first came out Ashley at AE Charleston told me they were buccaneer).

The Higgins Mill is an amazing boot. Super comfortable, great last. One of my favorite boot designs in my collection. I have them in natty CXL as well. I rate them up with my Indys as my most comfortable, most versatile boots.

Only thing I would change on these is switching from the XL Extralight sole to a different commando like the Itshide when it's time to resole, or the standard Dainite. The XL sole is very light and not my normal preference, but it's also fine to mix things up as well and have a different feel. My natty's have the Dainite.
 
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jglf

A-List Customer
Messages
376
Location
USA
Santalum derby shoes in natural cxl with white stitching and Dr. Soles. I chose them because they are the only Indo maker I found that uses 5+oz leather for the uppers and don’t line the shafts.

Pros:
*Quality and stitching are comparable to other makers I’ve seen.

*Uses thick upper leathers that don’t need lining.


Cons:
*Midsole they use is pretty thin. Funny how they use thicker upper leathers than other makers but thinner bottom leathers.

*They skive the vamp leather all the way down to nothing where it meets the shaft on in the inside of the boot which I don’t like although it is quadruple stitched.

*Sizing is about 1 width too wide which is a common problem I have when I send in tracing and foot measurements.

*The tongue is way too thick 6+oz leather and is fully gusseted which prevented me from tightening the shoes and made them very uncomfortable where it folds. I had to cut the tongue to a half gusset.


Pricing and communication was all par for the course. Overall, not bad but I think I’m done with Indo makers and will stick with PNW makers as their lasts, materials, and styling are more to my liking even though their finishing sucks.

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hughesovka

One of the Regulars
Messages
171
Location
NYC
Anybody have any experience with Jim Green Razorbacks? I need a good pair of durable boots and I hear these are iron tough and are used extensively in South Africa

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