Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds

French Hats and makers.

Messages
16,324
Location
Maryland
Thibet bowler in black. No labels inside the hat, but a size 56 with the brim at 5cm. Made for Baronnier of Nancy, France. Thibet is a brand name made by Ecuyer&Thomas. The details of this hat are wonderful, like the super tight d'Orsay curl. The felt is woolfelt however, so as smooth a finish as one would like.

thibet_01-jpg.305890
thibet_02-jpg.305891
thibet_04-jpg.305892
thibet_05-jpg.305893
thibet_07-jpg.305894
thibet_08-jpg.305895
thibet_09-jpg.305896
thibet_10-jpg.305897
thibet_11-jpg.305898


Here's a pic of the shop it was sold from. Couldn't find any more history of the shop right away.
baronnier-jpg.305899
Stefan, Super find! Very tight brim curl. Reverse sweatband ribbon. Really like the form too. You and Daniele presented Thibet's on the same weekend.
 
Messages
16,324
Location
Maryland
For my love for antique French hats today I introduce you a "Thibet" hat.
View attachment 305930
A high class creation for a high social class.
View attachment 305931
What characterizes the hat is the composition of the felt which is a mixture of various and precious wools.
Made by Jean Bourrel's company, it appears on the label as JB, who has built many hats for French quality brands as a subcontractor.
View attachment 305932
I have other hats in my Thibet collection in black and the sheen of the felt, evidently in wool, has always made me think of a special composition.
View attachment 305933
I asked Fleur of Penumbra Hats her opinion and here there is the reply: "The website mentions the hats were made of merino, and while some of the older, now extint breeding lines of merino sheep certainly had very fine wool with a lustrous sheen, the felt of the Thibet hat looked and felt different to me than other Bourrel hats I have handled. My guess is that the silky quality of the felt is the result of mixing merino with mohair from the angora goat - which would in turn explain the brand name "Thibet"!"
View attachment 305934

These are the measurements of the "Thibet" hat made long before the Second World War. The raw brims are at 5.5 cm. ribbon is at 4 cm. and the high and imposing crown is 13.5 cm open. The size is a full 57.
View attachment 305935
Rare to find in these conditions these hats are a quality rarity!
Daniele, Congrats on the rare NOS find. I really enjoy seeing the old Wool Soft Felt Hats and this latest J.B. "Thibet" is fantastic. You can really see the high gloss and fine finish from the photos.
 

Daniele Tanto

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,724
Location
Verona - Italia
It had been some time since these hats were sent to Fleur of Penumbra Hats in Nedherlands, Covid then extended the time even further, but it was absolutely worth it. Yesterday I received the first batch of finished hats. Today we see little-known heroes, the ones who probably would have been given lost in order to be able to wear them.
They are all French hats bought in one batch of unfinished or roughly finished hats.
Why did I wait and spend money? For the quality felts that are not very repeatable today, even if some have unusual shapes.
karson-4-jpg.309075

Karson in heather felt, burnt brown background color with green, yellow and red inserts.
karson-2-jpg.309076

Ribbon that accompanies the color of the felt.
karson-3-jpg.309077

Measurements: the brims sewn above are 5 cm., the ribbon 4 cm. and the crown at its lowest point at 11.5 cm. Size 60cm, which is 7 1/2 US
karson-interno-jpg.309078

New sweatband and finishing.
fdp-1-jpg.309081

"Veritable feutre de poil" (Pure hare felt) no other indications with short-haired heather felt with a bright gray background color and lighter gray inserts.
fdp-2-jpg.309082

Fantasy ribbon in gray with insert.
fdp-3-jpg.309083

The measurements are as follows: the brims sewn above are 5.5 cm. the ribbon is 2.5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 10.5cm, the size is 60cm. or 7 1/2 US
Francesi VFdP interno.jpg

New sweatband and finishing.
 
Last edited:

Daniele Tanto

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,724
Location
Verona - Italia
The batch of French had many hats that appeared to have been taken in bulk, whatever their state of manufacture. Most of them had labels, but others were semi-finished, some were useless. With patience and skill Fleur put him back on track following her taste and a "philology" of the hats of the Seventy, to which many of these belong.
bouteille-1-jpg.309084

Rambouillet - B.Bouteille in brown felt with antelope finish and a soft malleability.
bouteille-2-jpg.309085

The ribbon is new, it accompanies the color of the felt with insert in the bow.
bouteille-3-jpg.309086

Measurements: the brims sewn above are 5 cm, the ribbon 3.5 cm. and the crown at its lowest point at 10.5 cm. Size 60cm, which is 7 1/2 US
Francesi Bouteille interno.jpg

New ribbon and bow, some little finish.
flechet-1-jpg.309087

Flechet with short-haired heather felt with a bright gray background color and lighter gray inserts.
flechet-2-jpg.309088

Ribbon in gray that accompanies the felt.
flechet-3-jpg.309089

The measures are as follows: the brims sewn above are 5 cm. the ribbon is 3.5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 11cm, the size is 59cm. or 7 3/8 US, but wide, more a 60cm. (7 1/2 US)
Francesi Flechet interno.jpg

This is a "disobedient" felt and was cured to have shape. Unlined from born
Francesi Flechet etichetta carta.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
16,324
Location
Maryland
The batch of French had many hats that appeared to have been taken in bulk, whatever their state of manufacture. Most of them had labels, but others were semi-finished, some were useless. With patience and skill Fleur put him back on track following her taste and a "philology" of the hats of the Seventy, to which many of these belong.
bouteille-1-jpg.309084

Rambouillet - B.Bouteille in brown felt with antelope finish and a soft malleability.
bouteille-2-jpg.309085

The ribbon is new, it accompanies the color of the felt with insert in the bow.
bouteille-3-jpg.309086

Measurements: the brims sewn above are 5 cm, the ribbon 3.5 cm. and the crown at its lowest point at 10.5 cm. Size 60cm, which is 7 1/2 US
View attachment 309100
New ribbon and bow, some little finish.
flechet-1-jpg.309087

Flechet with short-haired heather felt with a bright gray background color and lighter gray inserts.
flechet-2-jpg.309088

Ribbon in gray that accompanies the felt.
flechet-3-jpg.309089

The measures are as follows: the brims sewn above are 5 cm. the ribbon is 3.5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 11cm, the size is 59cm. or 7 3/8 US, but wide, more a 60cm. (7 1/2 US)
View attachment 309101
This is a "disobedient" felt and was cured to have shape. Unlined from born
View attachment 309102
Daniele, They look great! Super work by Fleur. Also fantastic Specialty finishes and colors by the makers.
 

Daniele Tanto

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,724
Location
Verona - Italia
Daniele, Congrats on the rare NOS find. I really enjoy seeing the old Wool Soft Felt Hats and this latest J.B. "Thibet" is fantastic. You can really see the high gloss and fine finish from the photos.

Daniele, They look great! Super work by Fleur. Also fantastic Specialty finishes and colors by the makers
Thanks Steve! It is a pleasure to have high quality hats in my hands and what you define, with great knowledge of the subject, everyday hats, those that were exhausted by too much use. You can understand many things about the universe of hats, in this case French
 
Messages
16,324
Location
Maryland
Thanks Steve! It is a pleasure to have high quality hats in my hands and what you define, with great knowledge of the subject, everyday hats, those that were exhausted by too much use. You can understand many things about the universe of hats, in this case French
Daniele, Thanks! Same back to you, I enjoy seeing the French Hats. Keep them coming!
 
Messages
15,336
Location
Nederland
It had been some time since these hats were sent to Fleur of Penumbra Hats in Nedherlands, Covid then extended the time even further, but it was absolutely worth it. Yesterday I received the first batch of finished hats. Today we see little-known heroes, the ones who probably would have been given lost in order to be able to wear them.
They are all French hats bought in one batch of unfinished or roughly finished hats.
Why did I wait and spend money? For the quality felts that are not very repeatable today, even if some have unusual shapes.
karson-4-jpg.309075

Karson in heather felt, burnt brown background color with green, yellow and red inserts.
karson-2-jpg.309076

Ribbon that accompanies the color of the felt.
karson-3-jpg.309077

Measurements: the brims sewn above are 5 cm., the ribbon 4 cm. and the crown at its lowest point at 11.5 cm. Size 60cm, which is 7 1/2 US
karson-interno-jpg.309078

New sweatband and finishing.
fdp-1-jpg.309081

"Veritable feutre de poil" (Pure hare felt) no other indications with short-haired heather felt with a bright gray background color and lighter gray inserts.
fdp-2-jpg.309082

Fantasy ribbon in gray with insert.
fdp-3-jpg.309083

The measurements are as follows: the brims sewn above are 5.5 cm. the ribbon is 2.5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 10.5cm, the size is 60cm. or 7 1/2 US
View attachment 309099
New sweatband and finishing.
A fantastic supply and revival of French heather felts, Daniele. Saved for posterity.
 
Messages
15,336
Location
Nederland
Delion Castor Hudson in midnite blue. Size 56 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Remarkable hat this one as it sits somewhere between a lords hat and a camber style hat. The raw edge brim isn't just curled, but it has a tiny lip right at the edge which at first had me thinking it was welted or felted, but it isn't. Castor Hudson is the name Mossant used for their beaver felt hats and the logo on the sweatband is exactly the same, so they were probably the maker. Apart from some odd staining on the liner it's in excellent condition. This one's a keeper.
Delion was a very fancy hatter in the Passage Jouffroy in Paris.

delion-castor_01-jpg.309560
delion-castor_02-jpg.309561
delion-castor_03-jpg.309562
delion-castor_04-jpg.309563
delion-castor_05-jpg.309564
delion-castor_07-jpg.309565
delion-castor_08-jpg.309566
delion-castor_11-jpg.309567
delion-castor_12-jpg.309568


Here's a picture of the interior of the Delion shop.
delion-paris-jpg.309569
 

Daniele Tanto

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,724
Location
Verona - Italia
Delion Castor Hudson in midnite blue. Size 56 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Remarkable hat this one as it sits somewhere between a lords hat and a camber style hat. The raw edge brim isn't just curled, but it has a tiny lip right at the edge which at first had me thinking it was welted or felted, but it isn't. Castor Hudson is the name Mossant used for their beaver felt hats and the logo on the sweatband is exactly the same, so they were probably the maker. Apart from some odd staining on the liner it's in excellent condition. This one's a keeper.
Delion was a very fancy hatter in the Passage Jouffroy in Paris.

delion-castor_01-jpg.309560
A great hat Stefan. Color, shape and seniority make it a rare gem
 
Messages
15,336
Location
Nederland
Another renowned French hatter is Gelot, who was located on Place Vendome in Paris where the jet set would go to shop (and still do).
Gelot in black. Size 57 (or maybe 56?) with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Very soft felt, almost floppy, with a lovely hand to it. No labels inside the hat. What I think is remarkable is that the sweatband is a rather plain affair with no imprints or whatever. A bit run of the mill it seems for such a high end hatter. Could be a replacement, but the other one (yes, there's another one coming) has the same sweatband.

gelot noir_1.jpg
gelot noir_2.jpg
gelot noir_3.jpg
gelot noir_4.jpg
gelot noir_5.jpg
gelot noir_6.jpg
gelot noir_7.jpg
gelot noir_8.jpg
gelot noir_9.jpg
 
Messages
15,336
Location
Nederland
You don't see Gelot hats very often and all of a sudden two turn up from the Place Vendome, Paris shop.
Gelot in grey. Size 57 with the raw edge brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Very soft felt but not in the same way as the black one. Also a lovely hand to it. No labels inside the hat. The sweatband is the same rather plain affair with no imprints or whatever. The brim flange in the back is substantial with a very deep cup.
The hat shows a few signs of its age unfortunately, but let's call it character.

gelot-gris_1-jpg.309595
gelot-gris_2-jpg.309596
gelot-gris_3-jpg.309597
gelot-gris_4-jpg.309598
gelot-gris_5-jpg.309599
gelot-gris_6-jpg.309600
gelot-gris_7-jpg.309601
gelot-gris_8-jpg.309602
 
Messages
15,336
Location
Nederland
If we start off looking at French hatters, there's no way around this picture, where they are all named. It is certain however that more than a few of these sourced their hats from several manufacturers. I still need to find myslef a Léon hat (working on it) and up until now Motsch was also missing. Here's the E. Motsch however. The E stands for Eric.

grand-chapeliers-jpg.309634


E. Motsch bowler in black. Size 56 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at around 12 cm. The felt on this hat is magnificent, on par with the Penn Craft bowler that Stetson used to introduce that hat to the European market. The hat is also quite heavy at 190 grams. The Angleterre bowler and the Woodrow bowler weigh less than half that. Looking at the sweatband it is not intended as a riding bowler though (those are usually heavier). Unusual is that the brim curl opens up at the front and back of the hat instead of remaning curled inwards. It came in it original box as well. Almost certainly a pre-war hat.

motsch_01-jpg.309635
motsch_02-jpg.309636
motsch_03-jpg.309637
motsch_04-jpg.309638
motsch_05-jpg.309639
motsch_07-jpg.309640
motsch_12-jpg.309641
motsch_13-jpg.309642
 
Top