Help me find my perfect black cross-zip

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by jacketjunkie, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,514
    Location:
    Germany
    I'm very happy with my brown cross-zip jacket; the Bootlegger which I received this spring and I may have caught the ton-fever, because damn, I want another crosszip, black this time thank you very much. :D

    Here's the problem though, I'm having trouble finding one that combines all the features I am searching for!

    a) Classic Brando/ish or D-pocket style. No hardcore biker look. No full around belt. No belt or only sewn on front.

    b) Front drop and agressive taper from chest to waist. I want a fairly short back, 23-24" to allow for lots of taper in the waist which isn't possible if it's too long, else won't zip up at the bottom. However I want somewhat of a front drop to make sure it covers my belt in the front. You know, like many old biker jackets fit, for example the Hercules/Sears/Oakbrooks d-pocket style. Or like any A2 jacket is cut. All A2s I own have a 24" backlength but a 26+" length at the front if measured along the zipper. And this one is problematic because it rules out all models Aero makes, atleast all that I have seen. These come either super short in the back with zero compensation in the front which results in them looking great from the back and way too short from the front (imho) or they come a bit longer but sacrifice most of the taper for that (my impression of most 25+" backlength J106s for example).

    c) Broad shoulders to play into the whole v-shape thing.

    I know, I'm asking for a lot, but maybe one of you has an idea I haven't had yet. Best thing I came up with were a custom JL or Langlitz but with all these modifications, the bad EUR-USD rate and the import duties, these would come at prices for which I can easily get two Aeros and I'm not in need a jacket THAAAT badly. :D

    Funnily enough, I have found one jacket that fits the bill just perfectly, which is the Wild One repro by Bill Kelso. It has it all covered.. front drop, classic look.. don't know about shoulder width but it'll probably be okay. Few things holding me back from going that route though.. a certain persons behaviour towards members of this place, the leather which will probably be too lightweight for my taste, and the insanely high price compared to their others styles which feels random to me.

    Let me know and thanks for the help!
     
  2. steve u

    steve u One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    iowa
    jacketjunkie, Don't no about the B.K. history, but that Wild One repro sure is NICE.
    steve
     
  3. Colin G

    Colin G Practically Family

    Messages:
    649
    Location:
    Canada
  4. jeo

    jeo One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    172
    Location:
    Philadelphia
    Maybe the flat head delraiser? Not sure how much of a front drop it has but seems to fit the bill for everything you described you’re looking for...except for the price.

    Vintage jackets seem to always have bigger front drops from my experience though. It might take a while but maybe try going that route.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. ton312

    ton312 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,867
    Location:
    Chicago
    Step into my office
    C7E34E3C-CA32-4A0B-A932-48DFB4EB5363.jpeg
    Aero new pattern KOTR. Move the sleeve zips to BR position. Case closed.
     
  6. YES. Tony nailed it.
     
    Benny Holiday and ton312 like this.
  7. ton312

    ton312 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,867
    Location:
    Chicago
    I’m getting the itch really bad lately. Trying to keep it at bay. I’ve been doing just fine slumming on eBay. But the time is near I think.
     
  8. Benny Holiday

    Benny Holiday My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,094
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    Permit me to add my voice to Tony's and HD's. Perfect solution right there. Ticks every box from what I can see.
     
  9. Arizor

    Arizor Familiar Face

    Messages:
    57
    Agreeing here - if price wasn’t an object, the Flathead Delraiser is the least “biker” of all the cross zips and has a pronounced V-shape, but considering price I’d go with Tony.
     
  10. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,637
    Location:
    SoCal
    The Del-raiser is a real beauty!
    I think what would really tick the boxes is a vintage Block-bilt or Ralphs-Pugh. They have a pretty awesome front drop. You can see them in the BK archive section, but then again...
     
  11. JMax

    JMax One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,701
    Pegasus D pocket has quite a bit of front drop. Minimalist design from an accouterment standpoint. Tapered. May be your cup o tea.
     
  12. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,637
    Location:
    SoCal
    Pegusus D-pocket S with the handwarmer tab closures omitted, and the chin strap removed :).
     
  13. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    Messages:
    19,774
    Location:
    London, UK
    I'd suggest a chat with Aero; across their range of bike jackets, you're guaranteed to find something in the way of the ideal if it's an American style jacket you want. Back in the day, Aero (Ken himself involved) made two copies of Brando's original Durable for the Madame Tussauds Brando as Johnny Strabler figure. I'm sure they could suitably tweak their existing Perfecto-type for that; as I recall, the most significant change would be to lengthen the sleeve zippers (one of the most significant details on the Durable is how long the sleeve zippers are, reaching close the elbow than any other such jascket I've seen).

    If you wanted a very British-type cross-zip, I'd be lookinLewis, but I think Aero have you covered for any of the American styles.
     

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