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Highwayman - Zip Sleeve Highwayman Database

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,552
Location
London, UK
I’m keeping the standard HWM collar. It’s grown on me. While I love the premier collar I fear that trying to put that on a jacket it wasn’t intended for will result in the collar not fitting the jacket quite right...coming out too small or having a negative impact on the neck diameter. Sometimes less is more and I feel like this next one is addition by subtraction.

Best decision. The Standard Highwayman - Aero's first civilian style (and still their single biggest seller - impressive, given that next year I believe marks its fortieth anniversary) - was based on an original 1959 Highwayman jacket made under that house-brand for Rivett's of Leytonstone. That first jacket Ken made not as a direct reproduction (the accurate repro arrived in recent years as the Original 59er, a real ton-up style; Highwayman back in the day were doing those from at least 1958, while Lewis didn't introduce their own Corsair / Dominator models until 1962), but instead was 'Americanised' in style, basically a looser fit. This was in line with discussions with the original customer, and retro-fashion at the time. Around 82/83, there was a significant rock and roll / rockabilly revival movement, very much themed around Americana rather than the British experience of the fifties (which was markedly more drab and austere).

Anyroad, the Premier Fit Highwayman is not a fifties jacket like it's bretheren. Its design inspiration instead came from another angle. The short of it is that there was clearly a market for a plainer jacket of the Highwayman style, but with a neater fit akin to the jackets of the interwar period. The Premier model is, in effect, Ken's reimagining of what the Highwayman would have looked like had it been produced twenty years earlier. That being the case, I personally lean to the view that the collar styles are from two different eras as are the jacket styles; I don't think they would mix together quite as well as the standard approaches.
 

Nykwil

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
Cyberspace
Just posting fit pics for reference. In case anyone wants to know how it fits after awhile.

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AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,699
Location
Iowa
Glad to see some updates here. I've really been "off" the buying pattern since the beginning of 2022, just hasn't been a priority. I have been keeping an eye out for a nice black or brown zip-sleeve model then this one came up.
Snagged this from the Chicago area off ebay - a pre-loved FQHH Zip-sleeve highwayman. This one has just the right combination I was looking for - 4 zipped pockets, 2 inside pockets, and Nickle hardware. Sleeves long enough for me. Torso is long enough, pit to pit is decent, and it is not a tent of a jacket. Only things I would change if ordering new would be a cotton drill lining and 2" cord around the waist inside the jacket for durability.

This is a "42" tag size, likely ordered through Thurston prior to them adding their label.
Fit details:
- Pit to Pit - 24.25"
- Shoulders - 19"
- Back - 25.5"
- Sleeve straight - 26"
- Waist - 22"


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Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,296
Glad to see some updates here. I've really been "off" the buying pattern since the beginning of 2022, just hasn't been a priority. I have been keeping an eye out for a nice black or brown zip-sleeve model then this one came up.
Snagged this from the Chicago area off ebay - a pre-loved FQHH Zip-sleeve highwayman. This one has just the right combination I was looking for - 4 zipped pockets, 2 inside pockets, and Nickle hardware. Sleeves long enough for me. Torso is long enough, pit to pit is decent, and it is not a tent of a jacket. Only things I would change if ordering new would be a cotton drill lining and 2" cord around the waist inside the jacket for durability.

This is a "42" tag size, likely ordered through Thurston prior to them adding their label.
Fit details:
- Pit to Pit - 24.25"
- Shoulders - 19"
- Back - 25.5"
- Sleeve straight - 26"
- Waist - 22"


View attachment 452178 View attachment 452177 View attachment 452179 View attachment 452180
What a great find! It's hard to get a HWYMan with decent sleeves. You've hit this one out of the park! Congrats.
 

Hh121

Banned
Messages
3,008
My fifth highwayman (cxlsh size 38) finally got the result I want, here is my order note. I am 6 ft and 167 lbs currently.
Highwayman:
yes, add 0.5" on entire shoulder
25.25 " on sleeve just to be safe,
24.75 " back
Cord (Brown) lining for entire jacket.
No storm cuff.
Is hem tapered to size 36 works?

CXLSH on this jacket is super soft and pliable with decent thickness, the cord lining is thick and has luxury feel, overall this jacket just feel so much more comfortable than other Highwayman I had.
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Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,296
My fifth highwayman (cxlsh size 38) finally got the result I want, here is my order note. I am 6 ft and 167 lbs currently.
Highwayman:
yes, add 0.5" on entire shoulder
25.25 " on sleeve just to be safe,
24.75 " back
Cord (Brown) lining for entire jacket.
No storm cuff.
Is hem tapered to size 36 works?

CXLSH on this jacket is super soft and pliable with decent thickness, the cord lining is thick and has luxury feel, overall this jacket just feel so much more comfortable than other Highwayman I had. View attachment 454296 View attachment 454297 View attachment 454298 View attachment 454299 View attachment 454300 View attachment 454301 View attachment 454302 View attachment 454303
You’ve spec’ed this one very well. Enjoy and I can’t wait to see the KOTR beast!
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,296
My second Highwayman. Stock size 40 from sale page. 2.5oz Vicenza HH (usually they are thicker but this one is a bit thinner).

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I am back in the queue for another original HWYMan in brown CXL steer tumbled, so my opinion of the original Highwayman is subjective/biased. The original is the original. The later copies, including it's own premier version (more expensive than the RC one in Japan actually), may fit slimmer... blah blah blah. But the original is still the original. And I've come to appreciate the hem width and all its original designs.

Go (Original) Highwayman!
 

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