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Himel Bros "Grizzly" leather jacket

willyto

One Too Many
Messages
1,616
Location
Barcelona
Here we are, in the heat of the summer with temperatures over 30ºC (86ºF) with around 70% humidity and buying leather jackets.

Living in Barcelona there's no much time to wear heavy duty coats or thick leather jackets with corduroy or harris tweed linings so after collecting some vintage leather jackets (I lost track of them but includes suede, pony, horsehide...) over the last 3 years and 4 new (1 ELC goatskin A-2, 1 Aero horsehide A-1, 1 ELC horsehide A-2, 1 Aero 50s Horsehide Half Belt) I've been after a proper goatskin jacket for a while that would work for our mild winters.

Vintage goatskin in my size (38) get very expensive and are always in the US so that means expensive shipping and taxes which for me is a no go, I had also set my eyes on a Grizzly since @dudewuttheheck bought his Wolverine from Himel Bros and did his review then spotting vintage examples, the ones from Aero... you know how it works, there's people enabling you everywhere.

The sale from Himel Bros was announced so after taking a peek and thinking I wasn't going to buy anything because I couldn't afford it I saw the perfect one for my situation (Warm weather, mild winters, goatskin, grizzly....) and at a very great price. I had to buy it no matter what and I did, there was no way I was going to have one like that otherwise.

It was shipped on a Wednesday and it was in Barcelona on Thursday. I had to pay ~130€(800$ for the jacket) in taxes to DHL but I was actually relieved because is less than I had paid on other stuff previously in some occasions. Fastest delivery ever, it was supposed to be delivered on Friday but I was at work so I picked it up on Monday. I was so nervous worrying about fit, leather, the hair...would I like it? Would it fit me?

I have to say it was just what I expected. Fantastic craftmanship, delicious leather, great pattern, wild look and comfortable to wear. As always a bit restrictive at first but usually happens with new leather jackets until they mold to your body even with goatskin which is soft and flexible.

Leather

Everyone raves about Shinki leather and Dave is one of the few makers who uses it. I could have over extended myself and pick up a shinki one but in reality it wasn't what I loved when looking at the available jackets.

The goatskin on this jacket is fantastic... I can only compare to the A-2 from ELC that I first bought back in the day(It was my first leather jacket) which I remember being soft but stiff, that jacket turned into crispy bacon after some experiments so is no longer with me to compare. The leather on this Himel is not only beautiful but soft, doesn't have any stiffness to it, the pocket flats open comfortably, the sleeves are easy to move and close with the cuff buttons, the throat latch flexible and easy to close, the back really adaps to your body and the side adjusters are easy to use and to hold with the metal rings. I've seen some scuffs here and there(It is a sample so it's perfectly fine) and I love how it will age, showing some orangeish undertones.

The only thing is that the collar really needs some shaping which I'm sure can be fixed with some water.

The sleeves are already getting some creases, sure they won't crease as horsehide but they still show signs of use.

Construction

The jacket is built almost perfectly. The pattern, the stitching rows and the stitches per inch really are first class. I love the color of the thread and I wasn't able to spot anything outrageous. The only important detail to me is that it does look like that zipper went through replacement or some trouble with the stitching because it is a different colour and the inside panel has some scuffs marks(Barely noticeable) nad some areas have a double stitching row. Nothing shows in the outside and all the aesthetic issues are inside. Can't confirm nor deny what was done to it but something to point out. The construction won't be affected at all.

One thing I've noticed is that the talon zipper with that zipper box with two holes makes the bottom of the zipper very stiff, not my favorite detail because the front is longer than what I'm used to and I notice it but I'm sure it will get less noticeable over time. Not sure if it makes the zipper better construction wise or it's just aesthetic.

roHPDsO.jpg

Liner

The liner is 100% cotton as the inside label has printed but the sleeves are black cotton drill and the body looks and feels like a cotton flannel which I think works well with the goatskin. I like it! You can see the colour and texture here:

lVQA6h9.jpg


Buttons

The cat eye buttons are just fantastic, the jacket has 7 buttons (2 on each cuff, 1 on each pocket and 1 on the throat latch) and they all have very well sewn shank buttons. The ones on the patch pockets don't have the same level of shank as the others but I doubt it will be an issue.

xuTp3Hh.jpg


Hair panels

It is the first time I have a jacket with hair panels like these ones and I love it. The hair is quite Gnarly and wild which helps with the workwear vibe I intend to wear the jacket with(Denim, corduroy and cotton drill) although I'm sure I could dress it up if I wanted. The panels are only in the front and the patch pockets are sewn over them which means that the inside of the pockets have also hair while the goatskin leather is cotton lined. The hair is very soft and can take some brushing but in the edges has less volume leading to a bit of white cloth showing, nothing too noticeable though because is under the arms at the side. It doesn't bother me. I'm not sure how durable it will be over the years but I'm sure that it shouldn't pose any issue and at some point if major hair loss or damage was done the panels could be replaced if necessary.

They are the eye cathing area of the jacket, that's for sure and I feel very comfortable in it. I prefer the back panel not to have hair because it would make me use the jacket too carefully and be always wary of where I lean my back to.

Fit

This was the thing that worried me the most. What If I got the fit wrong? Dave had put lots of measurements and it should work but still...

Here we go. Click on the pics to make them bigger if you find the collage small. I thought it helped to see the overall fit at once, open, closed, side, back,etc.

aGosFA4.jpg


pvxDsrV.jpg


I'm very happy with it. You'll notice that I wear high rise trousers so that affects visually the jacket when worn open. I'm wearing a ELC loopwheel tee I got for 5€ on Ebay but it's a size 40 (I need 38) hence the macho collar :eek:

I don't intend to layer except maybe for a thin pullover vest or very think vintage sweater so no problem at all. I can move around in it, my arms have movement and I can reach for things.

When the jacket is zipped up due to the body lenght the collar raises a bit compared to when it's worn open, specially if I sit. I'm used to shorter jackets and this one in the front is longer than usual but I think it looks pretty good if you ask me. I have extra short jackets and this one in comparison fits different in body lenght. Also as I said previously the bottom part of the zipper is really stiff as of now as if the zipper, it will soften over time. The jacket stands straight on the zipper alone but that will change. I need to shape that collar a bit!

Sleeve lenght is perfect for me. I don't like them longer and surprisingly even flexing my arms doesn't affect the lenght that much unless I also reach forward as expected. They cuffs are wide by default (Which I like) but buttoning the second button makes them tighter but still with plenty of room.



Can't wait for Autumn to arrive...


EPOp2Ka.jpg


FOVAWiQ.jpg


uNGnuPb.jpg


scUNvun.jpg



Hopefully I haven't bored you too much. First review I try of a leather jacket. Feel free to ask any questions or ask for more details.

Conclusion: Amazing leather jacket, finest details, style and design. Great experience buying from Dave Himel. Nice box, package, fastest shipping ever. I was a pleasure to buy a jacket from Himel Bros and I'm sure that eventually... I will come back for more, not today and surely not this year but I'm very happy and would recommend them to anyone, specially at the sale price this jacket was a must have.
 
Last edited:

Bobby Peru

One of the Regulars
Messages
135
Hell of a first review! I’ve always wanted a ‘grizzly’ jacket, but I don’t have the swagger to be able to pull it off. Congratulations on the new addition!
 
Messages
17,143
Location
Chicago
Congrats man! Excellent and well thought out review. The jackets details are quite special. Particularly the collar shape. I really like how DH shapes the shawl. I personally love the zip over buttons as well. The hair panels certainly are gnarly but hey, if you're going to rock a grizzly, you might as well go balls to the wall!
 

marmalademan

Banned
Messages
373
Fantastic write up

But looking at the fit pics it strikes me as a terrible shame that this vintage classic has been made to accommodate modern trousers, though I fully get why he would do that. With it zipped can your hands access your trousers pockets unimpeded?
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,225
Location
Germany
Fit looks great, congratulations! And what a detailed review, thank you very much, enjoyed reading it! Looking forward to see some pictures of it properly broken in!
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,277
Very impressive and detailed write up. I am honored to be mentioned in it. I too love the buttons that Dave uses for his Grizzly jackets and his shawl collars are hard to beat. That goatskin looks very nice and I love how gnarly the hair on hide is. I think yours is even more grizzly than mine is!

Very good fit as well. I can't wait to see this with more wear on it.
 

Boyo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,215
Location
Long Island NY
Excellent Willy!.. Im glad it all worked out for you.. the fit is perfect and the jacket is really special.. you know you will never encounter someone wearing the same thing..

* I looked today 130 euros equals about 150 dollars ( is the $800 above a typo?).. I almost spat out my water when i thought you had paid $800 for shipping you could have flown to Toronto for $800 and picked the jacket up directly from Dave for that amount.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
Excellent Willy!.. Im glad it all worked out for you.. the fit is perfect and the jacket is really special.. you know you will never encounter someone wearing the same thing..

* I looked today 130 euros equals about 150 dollars ( is the $800 above a typo?).. I almost spat out my water when i thought you had paid $800 for shipping you could have flown to Toronto for $800 and picked the jacket up directly from Dave for that amount.

Pretty sure he means he paid $150 (130 euros) import tax on the jacket that had a value of $800 (680 euros) that's around 20% import tax, which is pretty standard when importing from the US.
 

willyto

One Too Many
Messages
1,616
Location
Barcelona
Hell of a first review! I’ve always wanted a ‘grizzly’ jacket, but I don’t have the swagger to be able to pull it off. Congratulations on the new addition!

Thank you! I thought the same about certain styles and here I am years later pulling off some clothes I would have never thought before (Or at least I think I do)

Congrats man! Excellent and well thought out review. The jackets details are quite special. Particularly the collar shape. I really like how DH shapes the shawl. I personally love the zip over buttons as well. The hair panels certainly are gnarly but hey, if you're going to rock a grizzly, you might as well go balls to the wall!

Thanks!That's also my view, if you're going grizzly it might aswell be one that brings attention to yourself.

This is so cool!
Congratulations on a very unique and great looking jacket!
Thank you! It sure is unique. I think it will become my favorite.

That's a really cool jacket, and i'm glad it fits you this well!
Really looking forward to seeing how it ages.

Very nice pictures and writing too.

Thank you! I'm looking forward to that too, I don't think we've seen that many new goatskin jackets well worn around here.

Fantastic write up

But looking at the fit pics it strikes me as a terrible shame that this vintage classic has been made to accommodate modern trousers, though I fully get why he would do that. With it zipped can your hands access your trousers pockets unimpeded?

Thank you.

I agree with what you say and if It was a bit shorter it would be perfect but this wasn't a custom order so I can't really complain. Were I to order a custom one I would ask for a shorter lenght (Currently the jacket is 24,5 inches long in the back and around 26 in the front) among my other jackets I have also one that has the same front lenght but a shorter back. I think the pointy zipper area visually helps to see it longer though.

Most of my vintage jackets have like 22,5 inches back length so it is 2" inches longer. It's not the end of the world for me but yes, it's noticable if I compare because I've been wearing really short jackets the last years.

I can't access to the pockets without bunching the leather up but with very few jackets I actually can. I don't mind though because I move the leather away with my hands since the leather is very flexible!

Very cool jacket! You wear it very well :)
And thanks for such an in-depth review!

Thank you! I tried to write something interesting.

Great review, and it looks awesome on you! If my Dad was still alive I could imagine him asking, "If you stroke the hair on that jacket, does it purr?" :D:eek:

I have to say it's like moving my hand over my cat so who knows if at some point it will actually purr

Fit looks great, congratulations! And what a detailed review, thank you very much, enjoyed reading it! Looking forward to see some pictures of it properly broken in!

Thank you! I do hope I will get wear out of it soon this year. Can't wait for it, I have the feeling it will be my daily driver... if only to see it break in and get wear.

Very impressive and detailed write up. I am honored to be mentioned in it. I too love the buttons that Dave uses for his Grizzly jackets and his shawl collars are hard to beat. That goatskin looks very nice and I love how gnarly the hair on hide is. I think yours is even more grizzly than mine is!

Very good fit as well. I can't wait to see this with more wear on it.

Thank you! i was a bit worried because I didn't know how the jacket would fit nor how I would like the style but fortunately it was fantastic.

I'm looking forward to use this jacket more often once autumn arrives and temps cool down.

Excellent Willy!.. Im glad it all worked out for you.. the fit is perfect and the jacket is really special.. you know you will never encounter someone wearing the same thing..

* I looked today 130 euros equals about 150 dollars ( is the $800 above a typo?).. I almost spat out my water when i thought you had paid $800 for shipping you could have flown to Toronto for $800 and picked the jacket up directly from Dave for that amount.

Thank you! Definitely I doubt I will find anyone wearing anything similar. I'm afraid I will bring even more attention to myself:D

As @Carlos840 said above this means that I had to pay 130 in taxes to DHL (They called me to verify what I was importing then sent me a link with a platform to pay online by card) for the jacket. I was counting on it but I expected to pay more which is good.

Thank you everyone for the good words.
 

HawaiiShrimp

New in Town
Messages
31
Congrats! That's a very unique and well made jacket. I can't pull it off, but I am glad that you can. Enjoy the jacket!
 
Messages
16,464
Lol, not sure if I could handle having to worry about two things that might suffer from hair loss. Granted, my head is a lot cheaper but still...

Proper photos make the jacket a lot nicer than what you've initially posted. It really was too gnarly on that blurry pic, looked almost like something that had been run over by a car but now I can see it's a very handsome jacket.

Fits you great albeit the trousers make it appear a bit long which isn't the case at all as it's shorter than the sleeves. I'd perhaps want this jacket a bit shorter but I'm an idiot when it comes to that... Anyway, that front dip is awesome. So is the label. Y'know, tone the colour down on the fit photos and you really do look like a manual laborer from half a century ago, like what we see on those old photos. May be the T-shirt but that gnarly fur definitely gives off that vibe. I'd dress down like mad with this jacket!

Fantastic review, too!
 

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