History Preservation Associates - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by HPA Rep, Jan 13, 2014.

  1. jeepjeep13

    jeepjeep13 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    201

    Okay thanks for the help! So this is most likely a custom length from back in the day. Do you think the house cut would be a blousier cut?
     
  2. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    It's been a very busy spring/summer and I must apologize for failing to announce here the 2019 lineup of Sun Surf vintage-style Hawaiian shirts we have received. As always, it's hard to choose a fave, but certainly any of the special editions would be at the top of my list. And so without further fanfare, please have a look at these gems - simply as good as it gets from the best in the game:

    Sun Surf Vintage-Style Hawaiian Shirt, Island Flower Shower

    SS38038_128-thumb.png
    https://www.historypreservation.com...ge-style-hawaiian-shirt-island-flower-shower/


    Sun Surf Vintage-Style Hawaiian Shirt, Kahili Ginger

    SS38026_119_thumb-700x700.png
    https://www.historypreservation.com...f-vintage-style-hawaiian-shirt-kahili-ginger/


    Sun Surf Vintage-Style Hawaiian Shirt, Luau


    SS38025_170_THUMB-700x700.png
    https://www.historypreservation.com...s/sun-surf-vintage-style-hawaiian-shirt-luau/


    Sun Surf Vintage-Style Hawaiian Shirt, Mermaids


    image.png

    https://www.historypreservation.com...n-surf-vintage-style-hawaiian-shirt-mermaids/


    Sun Surf Vintage-Style Hawaiian Shirt, Screw Pine Border

    SS38042_145-thumb-700x700.png
    https://www.historypreservation.com...age-style-hawaiian-shirt-screw-pine-border-2/


    Sun Surf Vintage-Style Hawaiian Shirt, Traditional Tattoo Motif
    SS38046_138-thumb-700x700.png

    https://www.historypreservation.com/products-page/sun-surf-brands/sun-surf-vintage-
    style-hawaiian-shirt-traditional-tattoo-motif/


    Sun Surf Vintage-Style Hawaiian Shirt, Hula Dancer
    SS38033_138-thumb.png


    https://www.historypreservation.com...urf-vintage-style-hawaiian-shirt-hula-dancer/


    Sun Surf Special-Edition Hawaiian Shirt - Abstract Coral Stripe

    DK36206_155_thumb-700x700.png
    https://www.historypreservation.com...iian-shirt-abstract-coral-stripe-dk36206-155/



    Sun Surf Special-Edition Hawaiian Shirt - Lei Queen

    SS38102_115.png

    https://www.historypreservation.com...urf-special-edition-hawaiian-shirt-lei-queen/


    Sun Surf Special-Edition Hawaiian Shirt - Festival
    SS37862_128.png

    https://www.historypreservation.com...surf-special-edition-hawaiian-shirt-festival/
     
  3. casterfield

    casterfield New in Town

    Messages:
    29
    Those shirts are fantastic. I'm bummed that all the medium sizes are gone, especially for the mermaid and Poi shirts.
     
  4. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    We have size Med. in some styles still left.
     
  5. casterfield

    casterfield New in Town

    Messages:
    29
    Ah my mistake. The abstract coral is available in medium, which is very tempting.
     
  6. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,734
    Location:
    California
    At one point I must have owned 20 Sun Surf shirts. Honestly, for warmer weather folks, if you dig them, a great alternative to collecting jackets. Sometimes I wish I'd stayed with that route.

    Beautiful presentation Charles.
     
    HPA Rep likes this.
  7. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Thank you, Nick. Yes, another collecting addiction I know very well with 75 or so in my closet. I get about a maximum of 90 days of weather for this sort of shirt, and I may wear these about 4 days a week, so more than I can wear in any given season ...
     
    nick123 likes this.
  8. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    That is a great shirt! I found a shot of Jan Michael Vincent wearing this Duke print in the 1978 film, "Big Wednesday."

    We have about 6 styles left in size Med., as of today. 66662328_2277258695644744_8754839401768419328_n.png
     
    casterfield likes this.
  9. seres

    seres A-List Customer

    Messages:
    418
    Location:
    Alaska
    @HPA Rep
    Will you be offering the new Eastman Catalog Issue 1 soon?
     
  10. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Thank you for the inquiry. We have a small, sample shipment on it way to us. Once we calculate packaging and shipping costs, a price will be established, a full order placed, and then they will be available on our website.
     
  11. Grayland

    Grayland One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,803
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Love that movie. I believe this is the scene where they were showing up for their draft physicals.
     
  12. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Featured Jacket

    The season is again fast approaching and I am now resuming up-close presentations and inviting Q&A on a variety of Eastman and Buzz Rickson's jackets as featured jackets.

    The Eastman A-2 Flying Jacket Reissue Rough Wear Clothing Co. 16159 had not been offered on a wholesale basis until just now and I could not place an order fast enough to bring these gems to
    N. America.

    Designed after the original A-2 jacket worn by Steve McQueen in the all-time classic WWII PoW adventure film "The Great Escape," this Eastman version is the most faithful rendering I have ever seen. Most of us interested in WWII leather flying jackets likely got a healthy boost in our interest the first time we ever saw McQueen in "The Great Escape," and I have a personal interest due to the special HPA edition of this A-2 we offered from Buzz Rickson's some years ago that was marketed as "The Cooler King."

    This Eastman Reissue A-2 is available as simply a TimeWorn reissue-style A-2 or as a Virgil Hilts "Escape" A-2 complete with his leather name tag, lining stencil, and captain rank pinned under the collar as seen in the film. Each of these A-2's start off just as the original reissue jackets did, which is as a new A-2, and in this case a Rough Wear 16159 A-2 from a Nov. 1940 contract. Once completed, the top coat of the dye is prepared for the application of the dark dye coat, which is where Gary Eastman lends his artistic talents and painstakingly paints the dark dye duplicating the less-than-perfect, sometimes-streaky style that was the result of Air Corps personnel acting in haste to get a job done they'd rather not be partaking in.

    The dye is a fairly runny, thin paint that doesn't cover all that well, thus the right type of paint and correct painting application are really what makes the job so challenging and will really make or break the finished product. One really cannot apply the dye as carelessly as they were originally done, yet the dye also cannot be painted too perfectly, thus a balance of authenticity and aesthetics must be struck as I know all too well since I also personally painted our "Cooler King" A-2's.

    You can see in the following photos how well Gary Eastman's painting work has been applied: there are streaks from the thin brush coats in areas, mottling, the telltale signs of demarcation from where no dark dye has been applied and the original dye still remains, and, of course, the leather hanger in the neck that has correctly not been painted and remains in its original factory dye coloring.

    Once the painting is completed and allowed to dry properly, the jacket is then given a hand-applied TimeWear treatment to emulate a re-dyed A-2 that has been worn, thus you see areas where the dark dye has worn off revealing both the original, lighter dye underneath and also raw leather on areas that have been worn down below two dye layers. The result of all this hard work is pure jacket art!

    When all of the time is added up to create this masterpiece Reissue A-2 Jacket, it exceeds the time needed to make two A-2's! And much of this work is specialty time performed by one who must have the right eye and right touch.

    Looking back on my own work on our "Cooler King" A-2's, I can only tip my hat to Gary Eastman for what he has achieved with this super-specialized offering. I would never again engage in such an undertaking as it was too time consuming and draining, and our "Cooler King" was not aged after the re-dye work was performed.

    All details for a Rough Wear 16159 have been correctly copied such as the shape of the pocket flaps, epaulets, collar, and the size tag being sewn down on all sides. I have posted front-view photos of two different A-2's so you can see subtle differences between examples on hand. This may well be the most elaborate effort in recreating a vintage A-2 to date!

    The fit of these Reissue A-2's is exactly like all other Eastman versions of Rough Wear A-2's. The "Escape" version is not stocked and must be ordered, but we do have in stock the "Reissue" version (seen here) in all sizes 38R – 48R.
    https://www.historypreservation.com...maker/usaaf-reissue-escape-a-2-flying-jacket/

    reissue a-2 44 fr sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 46 fr sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 backsm.jpg
    reissue a-2 back wear sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 chest wear right sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 chest wear sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 collar sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 dye streaks sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 inside pkt sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 sleeve sm.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
  13. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    reissue a-2 epaulet sm.jpg
    reissue a-2 decal sm.jpg
     
  14. heron163

    heron163 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    161
    Location:
    northeast
    Charles - knowing the quality of Eastman products first hand; I am sure that jacket is fantastic. Do they all come with the sleeve decal?
     
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  15. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Thank you very much for the inquiry, Heron. Yes, the presence of the AAF decal on the sleeve is characteristic to 99% of extant reissue jackets from WWII, thus this "Reissue A-2" by Eastman does come with the decal.

    The Rough Wear 16159 contract was selected because of the belief it is what was worn by McQueen, but without the "Hilts" applications for the "Escape" version; the "Reissue" version is commemorative of any such A-2.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
  16. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Featured Jacket: Eastman B-3 in Dark Brown Trim

    The Eastman Standard-Edition B-3 Flying Jacket is not a copy of any specific maker, but unlike A-2 Flying Jackets, the variation among B-3 contractors is rather small, thus this B-3 reflects the typical B-3 as produced by any number of 1942 contractors. All Eastman B-3's are made to the highest standards of quality and authenticity - there are no more-authentic B-3's in regular production today than those made by Eastman. I am a B-3 junkie, personally, owning three, and though this is not an Eastman Original-Maker B-3, I never cease to be amazed at everything that has been executed correctly to AAF spec.; sometimes, I just stare at these and soak up their incredible detailing and beauty. And I've found you just cannot wear this coat and not have at least two people say something positive to you about it in the course of a day.

    This rugged beast of a jacket just looks the business because, well, it is - corners have not been cut! As the saying goes, the devil really is in the details, so let's have a look at some of the details that are often missed by many other makers today but which are never lost by Eastman. The character-rich broken-grain sheepskin (specially developed and unique to Eastman), adjusting belts made from robust hand-oiled, vegetable-tanned cowhide, sleeve facings and trim leather crafted from only top-tier fully vegetable-tanned, fully aniline-dyed Italian horsehide in 0.8 mm - 1 mm thickness, and the sumptuously delicious buttermilk-color fleece all exude rugged luxury and identify this as a hand-crafted masterpiece.

    Assembly is with strong, 4/16-gauge, all-cotton thread that will fade over time like a good pair of jeans. And a sewing needle of proportionate size to the thread is always employed in all Eastman assembly so as to not punch insultingly large gaping holes in the leather.

    The original B-3 specs. from 1941 require sheep wool in three different depths: the body at 1", the sleeves and collar at 0.5", and the wind flap and cuffs at 0.25". Beginning in early 1942, the depth of the body was reduced to 0.75", and in late 1942-43 to 0.5", while all other parts were maintained at the original depth of wool. It should be noted that some contracts can be found with cuff wool at 0.5" depth, but never any deeper, and the wind flap was never 0.5". Eastman features sheep wool in the correct, varying depths trimmed down to the original AAF spec. and most notably, the wind flap and cuffs are in the 0.25" depth so you won't look as if you have a super-sized donut encircling your hands or a overly plump chest with an Eastman.

    The biggest changes in the B-3 specs. employed in 1942 involved changing the back configuration from two pieces to three, adding an inset side panel to each side under the arm and running to the hem, and dying the outer side of the sheepskin in a dark brown opaque color. All of these, of course, are precisely duplicated by Eastman, as is the 1942 replacement of a chained hanger in the neck area with a leather hanger.

    Remaining stocks of the pre-1942, nickel-plated chain hangers were used up until exhausted, thus some B-3's from post-1941 production can be found with these, but they reflect a small minority. Very notably, some makers today produce their wartime B-3's with the early chain hangers, but these are just chain hangers found on the market and not at all like the correct type made for the AAF, which Eastman has precisely duplicated for B-3's of earlier vintage as seen on their Perry 17808 Mixed-Batch B-3.

    Though by no means limited to these, other details often overlooked in repro B-3 production are: sleeve reinforcements missing or cut incorrectly/placed incorrectly, the shape, size, and placement of the pocket, shape and size of the collar, the complete elimination of the triangular-shaped reinforcement found on the underside of the collar at the seam connecting it to the body, incorrect length of collar and hip belts and the number of holes and their spacing on the belts.

    Sleeve reinforcements were intended to preclude tearing and puncturing the sheepskin on the arms and elbows, which both tend to be high-wear areas. These reinforcements cover nearly the entire upper arm on the outer panel and taper in such a way moving down the arm so as to not overly impede flexibility and movement. While extremely functional, the reinforcements were a source of complaint and movement was indeed less than desired; accordingly, on the very last B-3's produced in 1943, the reinforcements were reconfigured to be smaller so as to provide more mobility. Just such an original B-3 can be seen in the masterpiece WWII film about the Pearl Harbor attack, "Tora, Tora, Tora," being worn by one of the crew of a B-17 bomber. Though totally incorrect for the time period 1941, it is nonetheless nice to see a genuine WWII flying jacket in a film.

    The typical B-3 pocket was 7.5" on the long edge, 4" on the shorter, and 6" wide, though SLIGHTLY longer pockets are noted on some contracts. Pockets were typically placed 0.25" from the zipper edge, though some touch the zipper tape.

    Collar corners were cut at right angles and not deeply curved as found on RAF sheepskin flying jackets or the later USAAF AN-J-4. It should be said that thickness of sheep wool and how it lays can indeed impact the appearance of collar size, but not to the point where the collar appears to dwarf one's head or touch the shoulder seams when the jacket is nearly zipped up. The typical wartime B-3 has a collar that measures 5"-6.25" wide from the underside junction to outer edge and has adjusting belts spaced 1.5" - 1.75" apart; one contractor had a wider spacing, but none had narrower. Collars also featured a triangular-shaped leather reinforcement sewn on the collar seam where it meets the body, which is due to this being a key stress point where collars can and did tear before this reinforcement was adopted - all wartime B-3's have the reinforcements.

    The number of adjustment holes on both the collar and hip belts was specified as 7 and these were to be spaced 0.5" apart. Spacing was set on a punch machine, thus spacing does not vary among contractors.

    Each and all of the aforementioned details have been deftly recreated on the Eastman B-3 Flying Jacket. Do not cheat yourselves with lesser - treat yourselves with the best - you deserve it!

    We have been re-stocked with all sizes from 38R-48R and this very jacket depicted can be yours.

    https://www.historypreservation.com...editions/usaaf-type-b-3-winter-flying-jacket/

    b-3 shh fr.jpg
    elc b-3 shh collar.jpg
    Please note how the collar is the correct 0.5" depth. It is not overly thick or overly large, and the half-inch wool depth allows for the stitching of the collar belts to readily be seen, just as on vintage B-3 jackets.

    elc b-3 shh cuff.jpg
    Please note the correct tapering of the arm into the cuff, precisely duplicating the correct look of a genuine B-3 Flying Jacket, and how the cuff wool is also correctly trimmed down to 0.25" - no super-size donuts encircling your wrist and hands with an Eastman B-3 Flying Jacket.

    elc b-3 shh slv reinf.jpg
    Please note how the arm reinforcement almost wraps the entire outside sleeve panel at the upper arm, coming within 1" of the inside seam.

    elc b-3 shh pkt.jpg
    The pocket size and placement is perfection. Stitch count is maintained at 8-9 stitches per inch.

    elc shh b-3 straps.jpg
    Please note collar belts are spaced correctly, as are the adjusting holes set at 0.5" spacing. The triangular-shaped, leather reinforcements are also present and correctly placed to preclude tearing the collar at this key stress point. Eastman's masterpiece copy of the famous nickel-plated, spring-loaded Crown zipper with chevron teeth is a standout feature found only on vintage B-3's and Eastman's!!!

    elc b-3 shh windflap.jpg
    Please note the wind flap is correctly trimmed down to 0.25" so the jacket will not be overly bulky and puffy. Also noteworthy: the AAF winged-star inspector decal on the wind flap, the inspector ink stamps on the collar belts, and collar belts set at the correct length, hence not overly long.

    elc b-3 shh broken grain.jpg
    Eastman's specially developed broken-grain, vegetable-tanned sheepskin beautifully duplicates the rugged, craggy appearance so often seen on AAF sheepskin.

    elc b-3 shh hanger.jpg
    The leather hanger was adopted in 1942 as a way to save cost and critical metals.

    ELC B-3 Perry collar sm.jpg
    Seen here on an Eastman Original-Maker Perry Sportswear 17808 Mixed-Batch B-3 is the correct AAF-spec., nickel-plated chain hanger found on B-3's of pre-1942 vintage and a small number produced in 1942. These hangers were hand sewn to a section of reinforcing leather.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
  17. Carlos840

    Carlos840 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,320
    Location:
    London
    Great writeup!
    I already have an old Schott fake B3 that i never wear because it is never cold enough and you have made me want to by a real B3 that i would never wear for the same reason...
    I wish i lived somewhere cold enough to wear one!
     
    HPA Rep likes this.
  18. ericsanpablo31

    ericsanpablo31 Familiar Face

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Hi do you have the elmc highway star in a 38 in stock or are you able to order in? Would love measurements of both a 36 and 38 to compare. Thanks


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Messages:
    1,167
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Thank you very much for the interest. I received your private message and have replied, so please look for that.
     
    ericsanpablo31 likes this.
  20. heron163

    heron163 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    161
    Location:
    northeast
    Your killing me! That B-3 is... perfect!

    will a 42R fit the same as a 42R of the Perry mixed B-3?
     

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