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Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,796
Yes!! That’s where they are supposed to be. When they place them at the hem it ruins the jackets lines IMO.
The earlier ones had them at the hem. It was the transition period from A-1 style cossacks into halfbelts.

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ojaw

One of the Regulars
Messages
209
Location
Winnipeg
Mr Sheeley told me that the belt could be higher or lower, apparently Monarchs came either way, but I don’t know if that was an option or an evolution. I think ones body shape would dictate how good or bad either belt position would look.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,874
Location
Illinois
I’d agree. Funny how I didn’t see that detail. I wonder if any of the other models had the adjusters higher.

The iconic Sears Hercules was the first I found cataloged with sides .(1935) Not the A frame seen on prior jackets called Cossacks. The low adjustments were common on previous Cossack styles and continued on in this new model.

1936 shows adjustments in line with belt on several models. The Iconic jacket continues with the lower adjustments.

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The low adjustment style continued on in many jackets. One of my favorites has this style from the late 40s, Taubers horsehide.

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This Ralphs-Pugh is another favorite and has the low adjustments. From the early 50s, horsehide.

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I've owned three of the Iconic Hercules reproductions and did not like the fit of any of them. I have commented on this before. It did not work for me in that jacket.

Evidently they did not work for the previous owner of this original Hercules, adjustments removed.

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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,874
Location
Illinois
Leather patch for police office badge
1 Crown zipper
6 Talon zippers (including 4 ball chain)
Ventilation holes on armpits' action pleates.
Flaps on cuffs
Left collar shape is a little characteristic.
No brand label

Does anyone have an idea which brand made this?

I do not know the maker. Very interesting jacket from the late 30s early 40s. The ball and chain pulls are quite rare to find. I'm sure they were expensive hence limited use in the 30s. I look at them as a high end application as the Crown may be seen too.

The cuff straps show up similar on Trojan jackets.

The leather looks like cowhide/steerhide.

Very nice vintage jacket, most unique and desirable.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,874
Location
Illinois
I just bought another jacket for some one else. I do this on occasion. Don't know their name yet, but I call them a size 40. Yes, it will be calling out to you soon as I have a chance to examine it. I've never owned a jacket by this company but this one was too good to pass. Looks ancient but is just 40s years old.

I bought this while looking at another jacket, both are Cafe Racers. The 40 will ride on, hopefully the other one will come to stay.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,093
Location
California
I've owned three of the Iconic Hercules reproductions and did not like the fit of any of them. I have commented on this before.
It is an odd pattern isn’t it? I have four GW jackets made for me and the Hercules is the least comfortable of the bunch.
The way the arms connect to the body causes an odd pulling sensation and tightness across the back when I raise my arms. John warned me of this when we were discussing the project but I really wanted one anyway.
And I did have him raise the side adjusters to the belt line, much more useful that way in my opinion.
 
Messages
15,112
Vests are very easily altered.

Remove the panels on the side or make them narrower and it will fit you. Only have to find the right person to do it.

True but the French seams are so neatly done that I don't trust anyone local to do the proper job and it's just too big everywhere for me. I'm never having any luck with leather vests. . .
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
515
True but the French seams are so neatly done that I don't trust anyone local to do the proper job and it's just too big everywhere for me. I'm never having any luck with leather vests. . .
That vest looks really well made, every single seam is a French seam.
 
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