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Johnson Leather Jacket

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,360
Location
California
Dude!!!
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Bluechel

A-List Customer
Messages
331
Disclaimer: noob doing a review. I don't normally start threads but I want to highlight the work of Johnson Leathers of San Francisco

hey guys, I would like to share my new JL jacket (it's my 3rd with them). JL is local to me and I'm lucky to be within such a short distance from their shop. I've been treated well and it's always a pleasure doing projects with them. They have been offering more and more options regarding to the hides/hardware/lining they offer so I'm sure they will be getting more business from me in the future.

The jacket is made with their new offering of Masaye HH (a 2.75oz midweight vegetable tanned horse hide out of Germany which used olive leaves with the tanning process with JL adding a sheen once the jacket is made). I don't know if it's full aniline or semi aniline but it is dyed through. I did notice what seems to be blue grayish fibers when I inspected the zipper pulls. The leather itself is soft to the touch. I don't have a lot of experience handling different kinds of Leather but with what I have in my closet i would say it's less stiff than a shinki, definitley won't stand on its own like a cxl, in saying that it feels like a heavyweight goat. It is very easy wearing for sure and just the right weight for my local climate. It's a good windbreaker and it does repel water well when I tried splashing water on it probably because of the added sheen which probably means a light coat of paint? The sheen will eventually fade according to JL so that will be interesting to see over time. What I have on my jacket is a mixed smooth/grainy batch but I see a lot more grainy to be honest which I like, hope more grain pops out when the seen wears off.

Hardware is #5 repro talon in brass
Shell made from cotton lining from Japan (dunno what it's called)
Black satin in the sleeves
Leather strip to bottom sweep to protect liner
Small gauntlet looking design to the outer sleeve (@ton312 inpired)
Zipper sleeves on the inside sleeve panel (loved this from my FL CR jacket)
Interior pocket to left chest
Hidden size tag and made in USA tag
Subtle single point western yoke
Collar is 4" at its widest point

This jacket is probably going to be one of my grab and go jacket, it wears easy and just a simple clean looking black jacket that seems easy to dress up/down.
Maybe I should have added a little bit on the back length but maybe it's because I'm not used to wearing such a short jacket and I hate tucking my shirt too lol

Here you go (pretty overcast so sorry for the bad lighting)

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Is it rude or acceptable to ask what price a masterpiece like this would cost there? I'm talking to them now but have no idea of range of pricing.
 

SlimJim

New in Town
Messages
11
looks great, congrats on your new JL jacket. please watch out for the weather, the Masaye is prone to shrinking if it gets soaked with water.
I have ridden thru some rain with the Masaye several times over the months and it is still good!
It is my favorite riding jacket currently.
It is not developing the deep creases like Vicenza but it is a lot more pliable. And it has developed a little sheen and looks broken in.

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Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,308
I am also waiting for a Masaye jacket. I think it's Blattwerk from Germany. Same stuff that goes into the Porsche special builds. SB also had it once. But the tannery was very insisting on leaving it naked. And from what I read here JL applies a water repellent coating on top so they called it Masaye to not piss off the tannery I assume. Just my assumption. Anyways, nice to see a worn one. Looks thick and supple!

Bumping the JL thread with the Barneveld. Mine is done in heavy Horween natural horse. This pattern is basically a slimmer civilian CHP jacket with a front drop. High armholes, very good mobility.

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Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,308
@Canuck Panda its incredible. jaw dropping. How does it wear?
Thanks for the kind words! The leather is a bit out there but when I saw 4.5oz horsehide I just jumped.

JL has a magic touch on patterns. They can make the heavier leather very comfortable to wear. I thought I throw my Del-66 out here and see if any other JL half belt owners shows up.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,366
Thanks for the kind words! The leather is a bit out there but when I saw 4.5oz horsehide I just jumped.

JL has a magic touch on patterns. They can make the heavier leather very comfortable to wear. I thought I throw my Del-66 out here and see if any other JL half belt owners shows up.
I assume my vest is the same pattern more or less? May have to get a Del-66 in black or cordovan...
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,308
Barneveld Remix. The Instagram jacket is not mine. That one was horsehide. Mine is G(reatest)O(f)A(ll)T(ime) skin. Super heavy weight, about 4.5 to 5oz, aniline dyed see through depth, dyed all the way through black. Godzilla strength grains, Pillsbury soft flesh.

My first Barneveld was a slight custom with one piece back and single point western yoke. This Highwayman / Mullholand remix I stayed stock. I never thought I go two piece back. But Vanson E and Boardracer changed my views. I don't think they are cost cutting. Labor cost more than material in developed countries, so less seams would actually equal to faster production time (less labor cost). But the added center seam helps with the drape/shape. Our human body back is not flat but there is a curve. I am also a convert to vajayjay center vent back now, but that's another jacket story.

The Barneveld is a roomy jacket with super high arm holes and slim sleeves. It really is a CHP jacket but slim sleeves and now the Highwayman / Mulholland front pocket setup. The big difference between the Barneveld and my Highwayman is that the Barneveld tapers where the regular HWYMan does not.

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Fit pics here:

This Goat skin leather is really something. Not your thin stuff from the French tannery. The thickest parts is about 5.5oz:
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It's hard to capture the depth of finish but there is a lot of depth. This ain't the cheapy painted stuff. It has an aniline dye. If you have a jacket in the queue, it doesn't hurt to ask for samples of this leather. It's got that deer/Elk skin softness, but thicker and more robust and same see through finish and hand texture as the FW deerskin.

Why is this jacket called the Barneveld? Is there a place in San Fran called Barneveld? FW seems to name their jacket after town names in California, San Mateo, Mulholland, Centinela... Where is Barneveld?

This is not a spam post. Just trying to get the word of the heavy goat out there. I have three of these now, from 4oz to 5.5oz. Imo this super Goat easily runs with the big boys, CXL, Badalassi, RC/FW Shinki. Check it out.
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,308
stunning. I'm thinking of getting a Barneveld in Masaye (pre-soaked to minimize shrinkage from the elements) ...
There is always the threat of shrinkage from veg tan leather like Masaye. Yes. FWIW, I've got a Masaye Type I in the queue and I'm just putting some faith in since I saw JL made some motorcycle jackets with Masaye leather.

I've had shrinkage in other brands of veg tan leather, other brands than JL. But the result wasn't just one place like back length, but overall shrink by at least one size or more.

The original (Jin's) JL Masaye jacket that had the shrinkage seems to be on the back length only. And I believe it could also be leather molding than shrinking.

I am currently molding one of my Badalassi jackets, trying to get more shoulder width. By hanging it constantly on the back of my chair to get taller curve so longer shoulder arc length. I somewhat succeeded so far at the cost of losing a bit of back length. It seems the leather pulled from the back length to give more shoulder arc length. I am ok with losing half inch in length to gain that half inch in shoulder arc because the shoulder seams are already under stress and the threads are starting to pop. If I were simultaneously gaining a few pounds in the belly I bet the front pull will also make the back length even shorter by pulling more leather to the front. Leather has some give, not so much at the seams but the panels can pull from one place to give to another.

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I agree that safest bet for full veg tan leather is to have it pre-shrunk at the tannery. I am quite certain most premium veg tan horsehides are tanned this way, Masaye included. But I can't say for sure. If Masaye is indeed Blattwerk with an aftermarket top coating then I am quite certain it was pre-shrunk at the tannery. But that has not been confirmed. I also ordered my Masaye Type I in a smaller size than I normally do, I hope I didn't make a mistake!
 

bootsonatrain

New in Town
Messages
3
I recall reading that Jin asked JL to presoak the Masaye leather for one of the later jackets to take out the guesswork from rain shrinkage. Was this something that you have considered for the next build?
 

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