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Kelso or Himel Wait Times, Lost Worlds Tanning

dlite90

Familiar Face
Messages
92
Hi friends, I've been lurking a while (first-time poster) and want to pull the trigger on a Kelso Wingman (seal color) or Himel Imperial. I'm wondering what kind of turnaround time I should expect from Kelso or Himel.
I'd actually prefer the Wingman, but it seems like Himel has consistently shorter wait times? So I may bite the bullet and spend much more on the Imperial just to be sure I can get it in under 4 months.

I would consider a Lost Worlds "test" jacket if I knew it was veg-tanned, but it's never clarified on their site and I don't think the guy would reply anyway.

Btw, am I crazy for thinking more (skilled, reliable) people should enter this business space? When you have the skilled guys running multi-year wait times, and the skilled guys aren't exactly spring chickens, it seems like there's room for a few more small shops to open up if they can find a steady HH supplier. From what I've gathered the past few weeks it seems like some of the small crafters (like Lost Worlds) have a few screws loose.
Then there are some Japanese makers (Like Tenin) whom I'd love to buy from, but I can't navigate their site.

Thanks all
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,717
Talking of smaller makers, Field Leathers is new as an independent maker and he's pretty young.
From what I've heard, if you order a Field Leathers now, it will be ready early February. That's under 4 months and you'll get a great jacket and support a young startup business. Fields leathers work with vegetable shinki.

@dudewuttheheck recently published an interview with Greg from FL where he explains he was about to join one of the oldtimers in the trade but due to circumstances decided to start his own business instead.
https://almostvintagestyle.com/2020/11/15/field-leathers-interview/
 

Mich486

One Too Many
Messages
1,586
BK in my case was around 3 months. From what I read that’s pretty much the average turnaround.
 

Americanaaa Mark

A-List Customer
Messages
431
lost world uses your typical chrome tan leather. looks almost a bit utility like. it's not ugly but it isn't the nicest looking leather and it will take a decade till it looks broken in.
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,541
Location
London
It is true that a 4 month waiting time is not that typical.

Lost Worlds uses chrome tanned leather, I wouldn't call it typical though, it is in the top end spectrum. @Americanaaa Mark , their newer batches of HH show graining faster.

@dlite90 , why are you specifically looking for veg-tanned? What are you looking for?

I also own a Tenjin and can answer any questions you may have about them :)
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
It is true that a 4 month waiting time is not that typical.

Lost Worlds uses chrome tanned leather, I wouldn't call it typical though, it is in the top end spectrum. @Americanaaa Mark , their newer batches of HH show graining faster.

@dlite90 , why are you specifically looking for veg-tanned? What are you looking for?

I also own a Tenjin and can answer any questions you may have about them :)
I don’t think he meant typical as an insult. Just typical looking. Lost Worlds is all about the leathers weight and toughness. If someone wants something that feels substantial and will last forever with good care, the kind of thing you can beat up and wear in a rainstorm, nothing comes close to Lost Worlds leather. But in terms of graining, marbling, drape and patina it’s not very good. Certainly doesn’t compare to most leathers out there on those fronts. Even with the newer slightly easier to break in hides. It will look new longer and takes a beating. Certainly the best at that. Just as I said a bit lifeless and without as much character which it seems like the poster would be leaning towards.
 

Carlos840

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4,619
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London
. But in terms of graining, marbling, drape and patina it’s not very good. Certainly doesn’t compare to most leathers out there on those fronts..
Just as I said a bit lifeless and without as much character which it seems like the poster would be leaning towards.

I disagree, this is a LW after a few weeks of wear:

AVI6wKr.jpg

nteRoj7.jpg

NsYlf0I.jpg

EvllnBY.jpg


And another slightly more worn in jacket:

zxYaWz0.jpg

LT7O6RY.jpg

What more do you want from black leather?
 

red devil

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3,541
Location
London
@Carlos840 beat me to it, The HH Lost Worlds uses shows a lot of character, just needs to be worn for a bit - although I had really nice character from the get go

This was out from the box, unworn

T14blFp.jpg


The older "formula" for his HH took much more time to show its graining, but not decades... this was taken after a year

E2Bnndn.jpg


You can see the evolution and the dates here
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/lost-worlds-suburban-one-year-in.90515/
One year and not decades... and this is the old "unbreakable" batch.

I think the misconception that LW are lifeless comes from people who haven't given the chance to their jackets to really shine.

And again the new batch doesn't require half as much time to show its beauty
 

red devil

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@dlite90 , there is a lot more to leather than whether it is chrome tanned or veg tanned. It really depends on what you want. We are lucky to have so many options as to be able to get very as to what we are looking for.

Hence why I asked you what you were looking for.

When I first started I only wanted chrome tanned leather because of the toughness, then I veered into the "veg tanned is superior no matter what" mindset. And now, with my experience, I just look at how nice the leather is.
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
@dlite90 , there is a lot more to leather than whether it is chrome tanned or veg tanned. It really depends on what you want. We are lucky to have so many options as to be able to get very as to what we are looking for.

Hence why I asked you what you were looking for.

When I first started I only wanted chrome tanned leather because of the toughness, then I veered into the "veg tanned is superior no matter what" mindset. And now, with my experience, I just look at how nice the leather is.
Been a topic coming up a lot lately! But there’s good and differences(and I’ll say differences not bad, because at the top tier makers there is no bad just different) for horse, cow, goat, Buffalo and whatever else you can think of. Good and different for veg or chrome. Good and different within one tannery. Horween and Shinki make loads of variety. It’s part of the fun of this game. Trying all the different stuff.
 

tmitchell59

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5,793
Location
Illinois
The older "formula" for his HH took much more time to show its graining, but not decades... this was taken after a year

Yes, I have a Test from 8 years ago and it has a very different look. It is not grainy, just hard and tough. I've seen a brand new Test that had all the graining you would want, it was beautiful.

If you get the Test get the lighter leather 3.5 ounce. It just fits the style of that jacket much better than the 4+ounce . Note the original he has on his website is a much lighter leather.

The BK Wingman is a very nice looking jacket and my favorite of the BK line. Much lighter leather.
 

Berto

One of the Regulars
Messages
255
From what I've heard, if you order a Field Leathers now, it will be ready early February. That's under 4 months and you'll get a great jacket and support a young startup business. Fields leathers work with vegetable shinki.

@dudewuttheheck recently published an interview with Greg from FL where he explains he was about to join one of the oldtimers in the trade but due to circumstances decided to start his own business instead.
https://almostvintagestyle.com/2020/11/15/field-leathers-interview/

Hi all, another one coming off to the light. Almost a year being lurker of this amazing forum and now first time poster.

I'm at the doorstep of buying a shinki leather jacket, so I tried to reach to Greg (FL) but it was unsuccessful. He is not responding my message throught his website.

Definitely I love his jackets. Yours is absolutely stunning, congrats.
 

JMax

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,780
To echo the comments here, LW older stuff is probably what you are thinking of. It still breaks in and grains but requires much more wear, especially the body panels. The new stuff grains like crazy and becomes extremely soft rather quickly. Perhaps not as quick as other leather, but it doesn’t require the wear older LWs do. Just as resistant to water, etc. though. I find both beautiful.

IMO, LW are meant to be put through the wringer. True workwear, even though I find them stunning. Not everyone needs that level of indestructibility, either in their leather or jacket construction/seam work.
 

Berto

One of the Regulars
Messages
255
Yes, I have a Test from 8 years ago and it has a very different look. It is not grainy, just hard and tough. I've seen a brand new Test that had all the graining you would want, it was beautiful.

If you get the Test get the lighter leather 3.5 ounce. It just fits the style of that jacket much better than the 4+ounce . Note the original he has on his website is a much lighter leather.

The BK Wingman is a very nice looking jacket and my favorite of the BK line. Much lighter leather.

I also love BK Wingman. Liberty HH black is really nice

upload_2020-11-21_16-46-49.jpeg
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,717
Hi all, another one coming off to the light. Almost a year being lurker of this amazing forum and now first time poster.

I'm at the doorstep of buying a shinki leather jacket, so I tried to reach to Greg (FL) but it was unsuccessful. He is not responding my message throught his website.

Definitely I love his jackets. Yours is absolutely stunning, congrats.
Contact him through instagram or send him a Pm --> @Honeyman1935
 
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