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Linings: what comes between your and you wool

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Matt Deckard, Mar 14, 2006.

  1. Matt Deckard

    Matt Deckard Man of Action

    I have a few books on wools and weaves and patterns and calendaring, lapping, warping weaving, though not that much on lining materials?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ The wools will be on the Golden era?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ much more to talk about. Here is the foray into lining.


    Several ways and several matarials.

    The materials

    First off?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ the 70?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s were the decade where artificial plastics were king?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ stay away. Polyester is as I have said in the past, and amazing fabric?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ when it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s hot outside it make you even hotter, and when it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s cold you are even colder. It neither absorbs nor dissipates the moisture your body perspires. POLYESTER AND NYLON SUCKS?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ unless it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s for a parachute ?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ I even prefer that gals to wear silk stockings, though I hear they wear out faster.


    Rayon is not an artificial plastic like that found in a Frisbee?ǬÆ
    Rayon is a material made of modified cellulose (Plant cell membrane) and is natural.

    Viscose is wood pulp, natural as well.

    Both can absorb water and dissipate perspiration. Both come in many forms and weaves, and both are good for lining clothing.

    Silk if of the right quality and weave is a very sturdy fiber for lining, though from my experience it seams to wear out faster than the either Viscose or Rayon.

    All materials have been and are used for lining suits.

    Yes, yes I know?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ where are the photos?¢‚Ǩ¬¶ they are on the way.
     
  2. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,022
    Location:
    East Sussex, England
    one thing i can't bear about modern artificial fibre linings.....they make a cheap rustly sound when you bend your arm. arrggghhh!
     
  3. The thing i really can't stand is something the Brits may have encountered. During the CC41 period, they lined the arms of their jackets in brushed (yes ... brushed) cotton (at least all my examples are thusly lined). Makes it a laborious job to get the jacket off. The cotton of the lining and the cotton of the shirt arms seem to glue themselves together.

    Polyester makes me feel sick whenever i touch it. Reminds me of my school uniform trousers. Ugh. 600 sweaty teenagers in polyester trousers. Can you imagine?

    bk
     
  4. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,022
    Location:
    East Sussex, England
    i haven't come across that kind of lining Baron. most english jackets i own have a striped satin-rayon. the usual stuff really. not sure what you've got !

    unless you're talking country tweeds ?
     
  5. One is a black pinstripe 3 piece. That's the most annoying one. Another is a blue pinstripe orphan jacket - also annoying. I have a blue/black/red British prince of wales suit from the mid 30s that has shiny rayon ticking-type fabric. That one's easy to get off. It's only the CC41 jobs that're difficult.

    bk
     
  6. geo

    geo Registered User

    Messages:
    384
    Location:
    Canada
    That's how rayon used to be made, from cellulose. I believe, if I'm not mistaken, that it is now made of plastic, although it has kept the name "rayon".
     
  7. BellyTank

    BellyTank I'll Lock Up

    Acetate!

    Some of those stripey sleeve linings are Taffeta- (silk or Acetate).

    Acetate, (cellulose acetate fibre) as a garment textile has been used since around WW1.

    Just for the record-

    B
    T
     
  8. The art and engineering of 1930s suit linings:


    [​IMG]
     
  9. Matt Deckard

    Matt Deckard Man of Action

    All that interfacing and where the horsehair goes and why, and the padding and the basting... men's jackets are an animal unto their own. I have one I took apart from Oxxford (it was pretty damaged as it was). So many parts. The lining material is the easy stuff.
     
  10. clevispin

    clevispin One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    253
    I've never liked the feel of synthetics directly on my body - until recently. I have a Bean Polartec jacket that is rather comfortable. It is wind-proof, breathable, warm and soft. It is 100% polyester. I still can't stand a poly blended shirt and even the all cotton "no-iron" britches give me the ickies. The modern engineering tho is what makes the synthetics wearable for some. I think a lot of the thermal under garments are actually polyester and are engineered to wick etc.

    Better living thru chemistry.

    m
     
  11. Matt Deckard

    Matt Deckard Man of Action

    When the need arises and fur underwear is not to be found I reach for the polypropoline long jons.
     
  12. I think about 90% of the vintage jackets I had over the years had acetate lining. It was big in the mid-century. I've had a number of robes and countless ties made of acetate. I don't believe I've ever had a tux jacket that wasn't lined with acetate. What was the compositional difference between it and rayon? Do they still make acetate?

    Regards,

    Senator Jack
     
  13. Mrs. Foss

    Mrs. Foss New in Town

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Rayon and Acetate

    Rayon is definitely still made out of cellulose from wood pulp. It's a long, complex chemically process that makes me wonder why they bother. Don’t get me wrong, I love my rayon as much as the next person, but it seems like an awful lot of trouble to go to. Acetate it also made out of cellulose, but I wasn't able to figure out exactly what the difference between the two is. Acetate's main selling point seems to be breathability. I have some nice vintage undergarments made out of acetate and they are pretty comfy.

    Here’s a link to give you an idea of what goes into making a batch of rayon:

    http://www.costumegallery.com/Textiles/rayon.htm

    ~Mrs. Foss
     

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