Made a Luftwaffe type jacket

[fishmeok]

Just finished it this morning, more detail on the blog:

http://superiorjackets.com/?cat=3

Cheers
Mark

 

[ukali1066]

Great work Mark !

 

[Seb Lucas]

Nice work. You keep getting better and better. :eusa_clap

 

[fishmeok]

Thanks- I'm working on another variant right now which is more like the Eastman version- one piece back, two piece arms, slash hand pockets, etc. The design is like an A-2, it can be re-worked into many different variations (including a halfbelt) without too much trouble.

I think for a more 30's look it would need slightly tighter arms, shorter body, and about 1/2" off the collar height. I was going for more of a 40's/50's vibe and was most concerned about getting the "reach" right so it would fit with no binding in the shoulders and arms. It worked out well, the jacket is comfortable and doesn't bind when you reach forward. It's all about the shape of the sleeve cap. I made a cloth test jacket a while back by taking the arm from a pattern that had a bi-swing and grafting it onto a straight body. Didn't work out too well, the sleeve cap shape had been made to use the bi-swing and had a very arched shape to it (like a sine wave)- there was no reaching room at all. To be comfortable without a bi-swing the sleeve cap needs to be a large shallow arc, giving the arms another couple inches of material for reaching forward.

Cheers
Mark

BTW this is on e-bay now, If it wasn't 75 degrees every day now I might actually keep it longer.

 

[nicholasb]

That is fantastic - especially in that colour. The half belt version would also be great. One of those jackets that just makes you think wow.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Mark, I'd love to see you do a classic half-belt like Goodwear's Californian or like an Aero version.

 

[fishmeok]

I will at some point here, there are a large number of different jackets I want to try but my average is about 2 a month, so it takes a while...

John (Goodwear) has a fantastic Californian that he makes now, I like it better than the Aero version (IMHO) looks more period to me.
Cheers
Mark