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**NEWS EXTRA**Good Wear flying jackets take vintage authenticity to new heights!!

Mike K.

One Too Many
Messages
1,479
Location
Southwest Florida
Cannot say that I've noticed that trend. In fact I recall at least one person whose jacket was too small (due to the specific contract). There are a number of GW owners that purchased prototype jackets, some of which may not have been in their size, but when you're talking about a collectible.... Also, I recall reading many years ago that WWII sizes were not what they are today. Thus a WWII size 40 would fit like a modern 38. Since JC's jackets are cut true to original patterns perhaps this is what you're noticing. I typically wear a modern 40 and JC recommended a size 42 jacket. I'm sure others out there could offer more feedback. You might also want to query the Vintage Leather Jackets forum.
 

greyhound68

A-List Customer
Messages
362
Location
Manteca, CA
John Chapman owner operator of Goodwear makes his patterns directly from original A2s. Thus his 44 is a 44 WW2 model. Of course to make alterations for us ah bigger modern folks he does custom work. I usually take a 42 in reproduction A2s (Eastman, Aero, and Buzz Rickson) but I take a 44 in all the originals I have. Therefore, my Goodwears are 44s. The prototype A-1 Goodwear I just got is marked 46 but fits like a 44 and fits me very well. I can't recommend John's jackets enough I own three and really don't want anything from any other repro makers. His attention to detail is second to none. One cannot tell the difference between my clone Doniger and the original the work is that good. Hope I answered your question.
 

CBI

One Too Many
Messages
1,336
Location
USA
this sounds odd. Ordering from GW directly involves giving John jacket measurements from a customer’s jacket(s) that fits well (especially any A-2's). So, I don't think one orders a GW by saying "Send me a 44". They are all custom made for each customer. I gave John a number of measurements for my GW and it fits great. I think most of the test jackets that have been sold are 46 (which is John's size). People buying those take their chances a little but the price for the test jackets must be/is hard to pass up!
 

ChuckO

New in Town
Messages
45
Location
Outside Hartford
I think that was my real question: are most of the Goodwears people have posted pictures and reviews (on this site) prototypes that were larger than they would have normally ordered. It seemed like a lot of folks were talking about shrinking them with the "hot water method".

The Goodwears look like incredible jackets. The only competition for them seems like Buzz Rickson (and they seem to be a lot more $).
 

PADDY

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
7,425
Location
METROPOLIS OF EUROPA
Buzz Rickson vs GoodWear...

Well BR can use quite a bit of artistic licence on their interpretations of jackets (particularly the A-2). And are not always authentic to originals.

GoodWear, certainly with the A-2 is striving (and by most accounts successfully) to replicate the WWII issue A-2. The only concession JC (The maker who is obsessive with detail-detail-detail) is being flexible with, is cutting his jackets to a tailored size based on the individual measurements provided by each customer who orders from new.

Of course those with military experience will tell you, you take what you are issued with, which is the nearest 'eyeball' fit by the QMS.

But 'here' in civvie street regarding the likes of GoodWear, we are talking about folk parting with $800 for a jacket, so it's a fair concession to get one tailored to 'you,' and not just thrown over a counter at you.
 

aswatland

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,338
Location
Kent, England
ChuckO said:
I think that was my real question: are most of the Goodwears people have posted pictures and reviews (on this site) prototypes that were larger than they would have normally ordered. It seemed like a lot of folks were talking about shrinking them with the "hot water method".

The Goodwears look like incredible jackets. The only competition for them seems like Buzz Rickson (and they seem to be a lot more $).


As has been said most of John's test jackets are either 44 or 46. I ordered a Doniger from him and its a size 42 and was made from the measurements I supplied him back last summer. Great jacket BTW, almost identical to my original Doniger.
Original
002-12.jpg


Goodwear
001-7.jpg
 

PADDY

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
7,425
Location
METROPOLIS OF EUROPA
Absolutely cracking jacket there Andrew!

Actually on 'both' counts. The pictures speak a thousand words alone!!

**Interesting point here folks. I'm sure I'm safe in saying that compared to VLJ-III, this is the finest appraisel of JC's jackets on the WWW now.

With (at the point I pen this) 8000 views of this thread, you've done us and JC proud in all your constructive feedback and photos to illustrate how much we all strive to keep the A-2 pure and authentic to its illustrious roots. THANKYOU one and ALL!! :eusa_clap
 

jamespibworth@n

One of the Regulars
Messages
253
Location
Bedford England
‘Wow’

Mr. Chapman is doing a great job and I am sure he deserves great success.

Some of his leather seems ‘pebbely’, has anyone else noticed this?

P.s

I have just noticed I am now a ‘familar face’!!
 

aswatland

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,338
Location
Kent, England
jamespibworth@n said:
‘Wow’

Mr. Chapman is doing a great job and I am sure he deserves great success.

Some of his leather seems ‘pebbely’, has anyone else noticed this?

P.s

I have just noticed I am now a ‘familar face’!!


Yes, the goatskin on the Doniger is "pebbly", but its a characteristic of goat. Its a little more "pebbly" than on my original. But no two hides are the same!
 

ChuckO

New in Town
Messages
45
Location
Outside Hartford
Those photos Aswatland put up of the original Doniger and the Good Wear Doniger are amazing. I'm glad I saw those. That answers my question.

Paddy, What are the short comings of the BR's?
 

CBI

One Too Many
Messages
1,336
Location
USA
GW is the only company that gets the right fit/drape of period jackets. The others including BR make changes in the cut for more modern tastes. BR also makes a "perfect" jacket that does not look like the hand sewn jackets of the period. I prefer GW’s leather options as well, more character and more accurate. In regards fit/drape, the result is that the other premium brands (as great as they look) are not really the correct shape, close but not there. This is the biggest plus with GW for me. A few folks have posted that they don’t care for the worn look of GW’s but GW offers hides that look “brand new” (from the 1940’s Quartermaster) as well.
 

ChuckO

New in Town
Messages
45
Location
Outside Hartford
I can see what you mean about the fit/drape of the Goodwears now that I've seen Aswatland wearing his Goodwear. I wasn't seeing it from the photos on the Goodwear site or some of the folks that had posted here. I could see why people loved the jackets based on the detail and leather quality but until Aswatlands photo I wasn't getting that "shirt" like fit people had in the WWII photos.
 

greyhound68

A-List Customer
Messages
362
Location
Manteca, CA
ChuckO said:
How long is the wait at this point?
Right now about 60 days I believe. John is a one man operation. Right now he has about 30 plus orders. He does about three jackets a week (John correct me if I am wrong). So 60 days is about right.
 

MudInYerEye

Practically Family
Messages
988
Location
DOWNTOWN.
CBI said:
GW is the only company that gets the right fit/drape of period jackets. The others including BR make changes in the cut for more modern tastes.

My size 38 Buzz Rough Wear A-2 fits exactly like my original size 38 Rough Wear (unlike my Eastman Rough Wear). I have noticed differences in some of their nylon jackets' cuts, but the Buzz A-2s seem pretty faithful pattern-wise. What modern concessions have you noticed in the Buzz A-2 patterns?
 
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