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Opinions on tapered belt length button up jackets

nattevagten

One of the Regulars
Messages
209
Can’t comment on Detroit as I’ve never owned a Bootlegger, but SB J100 is not based on BR. It has a very different pattern and fit.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,690
Location
London, UK
Can’t comment on Detroit as I’ve never owned a Bootlegger, but SB J100 is not based on BR. It has a very different pattern and fit.

More likely it "resembles" the Aero Cafe Racer; if memory serves, the Board Racer was introduced after Will Lauder left Aero to throw in his lot with what started as Alexander Leathers and is now SB.
 

TartuWolf

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
Tartu, Estonia
@Canuck Panda
"If the CXL FQHH in natural color is available in the thinner 1.1mm, it'd be much better leather than the battered tan imo. The patina potential is huge, from dark honey to medium brown. I've got one in the thick thickness and while it's still being broken in, the patina is already better than my battered tan."
Sorry, but your photo of the battered tan looks so much better than the CXL FQHH. Guess because I like the bright/dark high/low color/light dance of the battered tan and I prefer smooth leather over grainy.

What I gathered regarding VAT is this:
- SB charges the same prices (with UK VAT) for everyone. Meaning I would most likely pay double VAT (UK+EE) upon import. But they (as they said themselves in terms of reasoning for this) kept the prices relatively lower that way in general.
- Aero does not include UK VAT when the item is being shipped abroad. So I would only have to pay EE VAT.

Either way, my plan is to reach a final price with both makers and then compare how much in total I would pay in each case. Then I'll have a good idea of "how much cheaper is SB compared to Aero".

Regarding SB sizing I kind of read the opposite somewhere in FL - that SB patterns in general are more trim than Aero. But that might be a comment on the shape/taper/trimness of the pattern/sizing, rather than the relative sizing numbers. Maybe SB is also more willing to adjust the ptp-waist-hem ratio/shape than Aero. Will find out soon enough I hope.

In terms of leathers both makers seems to have a very nice array of choices. With Aero I have 3-4 different possible options. I guess with SB I would have a similar amount of choices, will know better when I get the samples which were already sent to me based on my description of what kind of leather I would like.

@nattevagten
"I have a jacket in black Epsom horsehide. The leather is similar to CXL FQHH in terms of look and feel, but it’s lighter and easier to wear. I prefer it to the thin version of CXL FQHH, which I found a bit too light."
Thank you for this input regarding Epsom. Perhaps you could post more pictures of your black epsom Detroit? As it is also one of the options in terms of model that I'm looking at. This model looks quite poor / uninspiring on their own website unfortunately.
 

TartuWolf

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
Tartu, Estonia
I think this thread got derailed from the main topic a bit - opinions / examples of short (belt level) button ups. Campus/cossack jackets as one member clarified.
I'll bring it back by posting a nice recent finding - a French review of Aero itself / Maxwell with a lot of photos of a gorgeous Maxwell with shearling lining and a mutton collar.
https://borasification.com/aero-leather-clothing/
Personally I think that the jacket is 1-2 inches too short for this specific person (tall and skinny). And I'm not a fan of so much shirt hanging down from beneath the jacket. A bit is acceptable, but definitely not this much.
The biceps/triceps area also seems oversized a bit, but maybe with wear it would settle down a bit.
Other than that - great fit, if I go for a Maxwell and mine turns out like that in terms of fit (apart from the issues I mentioned) - I would be extremely satisfied.

Enjoy the photos!
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,114
Location
East Java
that dude doesn't know about partial tuck in, but if the jacket's hem has some drop on the front, and slightly curving on the back it would be more in tune with the scalloped hem of his shirt.
 
Messages
10,098
Location
SoCal
I’d be after this:
2C506796-9224-44E9-90E8-3756BF4B90C3.jpeg
3182979E-BAAB-4598-B817-FB11E7327491.jpeg
 

TartuWolf

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
Tartu, Estonia
@handymike I'd get something similar if I'd go for the Aero Moonshiner.

^^
It's not the jacket that is too short, it is dude's shirt that is entirely too long. He's shooting for the "effortless cool" look, and he misses.
What makes me think that it's not only the shirt problem are the last few photos of his hip area close-up. You can tell that the jacket does not cover his belt.
 

nattevagten

One of the Regulars
Messages
209
@nattevagten
Thank you for this input regarding Epsom. Perhaps you could post more pictures of your black epsom Detroit? As it is also one of the options in terms of model that I'm looking at. This model looks quite poor / uninspiring on their own website unfortunately.
The Detroit is in CXL steerhide; the J100 is in epsom.
 

MrProper

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,987
Location
Europe
@handymike I'd get something similar if I'd go for the Aero Moonshiner.


What makes me think that it's not only the shirt problem are the last few photos of his hip area close-up. You can tell that the jacket does not cover his belt.
Definitely not. The jacket ends at the top of the belt and would be a good inch too short for me. Maybe that's why the shirt hangs out, to visually conceal that. But then I would not take a contrasting color, but rather, for example, a dark wool vest. But tastes are different.
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,421
I think straight front hem works only with tucked in shirts. Some front drop hem works with untucked shirts, but only if the shirt was designed to be untucked to began with. The traditional dress shirt with the low half moon hem just aren't meant to be untucked unless the front drop is at least 3.5" plus (like on my FCL jacket).
The easiest way is to just tuck in the shirt when it feels too long. And the belt is actually the hero in all situations, tuck or no tuck, straight or curved hem.
 

Aloysius

One Too Many
Messages
1,463
I think straight front hem works only with tucked in shirts. Some front drop hem works with untucked shirts, but only if the shirt was designed to be untucked to began with. The traditional dress shirt with the low half moon hem just aren't meant to be untucked unless the front drop is at least 3.5" plus (like on my FCL jacket).
The easiest way is to just tuck in the shirt when it feels too long. And the belt is actually the hero in all situations, tuck or no tuck, straight or curved hem.

This is perhaps a matter for the tailoring sub forums but I hate the untucked curved hems; as you say the whole point is to stay tucked.

Straight hems really need to make a comeback. I buy them whenever I see them.
 

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