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Ordering the perfect Aero Sheene: Advise?

Insomnia

One of the Regulars
Messages
211
Location
Germany
I'm thinking about to order a Aero Sheene in brown FQHH. I like the fit of the Cafe Racer and Sheene. I already know my size and measurements.

But what about the details?

Zippers or no zippers on handwarmer pockets? I'm leaning to no zippers.
Zippers on sleeves or button cuffs?
What kind of joke on the back?
Kidney panel: None or only keep the inner kidney panel?
Ball and chain hardware or diamond puller on the breast pocket?
Nickel, brass or antique brass hardware.
Lining: Lochcarron tartan or olive heavy cotton drill.
Contrast stitching?

I will order the jacket without shoulder gussets or bi-swing back (i don't need them for a good fit) and with one inside pocket without button or zipper.

Anything else to consider? What would be your perfect Sheene?

In case you read this Monitor, yes i'm planing to kill another cafe racer, sorry ;) but i already have enough cafe racer jackets.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
I have two Sheenes - one with zippers on handwarmer pockets and one without zippers; I much prefer without! I much prefer zippers on the sleeves rather than button cuffs on this kind of jacket. I removed the leather pieces attached to the zippers. Since the zippers on the sleeves are in the back, they are barely noticeable. Both of my Sheenes have olive cotton drill that is both durable and looks good. My Sheenes have no kidney panel since I don't ride. The three most important things to keep in mind in no particular order:
1) fit
2) fit
3) fit

My Sheenes had 2" added to the circumference of the waist (1" added to each side panel) since I am stick-shaped rather than V-shaped. Both of my jackets are great for daily wear, one russet Vicenza and the other black Vicenza. Good luck with your selection!
 
Messages
17,143
Location
Chicago
If I were building a sheene it would go as follows:
*Single point western yoke w/gussets
*Delete handwarmers, retain two chest zips w/ diamond pulls set at cat eye angle
*Delete kidney panel
*sleeve zips at the top of the sleeve
*lined with OD cotton drill
*CXL steer brown
*collar like premier Highwayman
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,779
Location
London, UK
Zippers or no zippers on handwarmer pockets? I'm leaning to no zippers.

All depends what you want.... me, if I were looking one of these I think I'd be tempted to eschew the hand-warmers altogether and just have the chest pocket, but that's to personal taste.

A lot depends on what the overall vibe you want is... Do you want to preserve the design's overall, traditional motorcycle vibe, or is it just a jacket to you.... If you don't care about storing anything in the hand-warmers or them looking like a "real" bike jacket, then you'll find no-zips fine. Me, I'd have the zips there.... but I don't use hand-warmer pockets on a short jacket (just stick me paws in me trews - the pockets on the jacket are just for the look with me,. really).


Zippers on sleeves or button cuffs?

Again, your call.... though personally I'd stick with the zips as those are what the jacket was designed to have, and they flatter it best to my eye. Buttons lost something of that slick, simple look that is at the heart of the café-racer types imo.

What kind of joke on the back?

How about the traditional 'Wot, no bike?' ;) Heh.... assuming you meant 'Yoke', again, I'd stick with the single pointer that the original has, for simplicity. If you want a jacket that has a bit of a fancier take on this general vibe, I'd be looking at the 1930s Highwayman: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=2428 (Also if you want button cuffs and such.... that's the joy of Aero these days, there are so many different models on the books now that there is often already a stock version of any 'custom' idea you come up with. Often, it's worth considering bearing in mind that it's a whole lot less hassle just to start with a jacket that's much closer what you wanted than convert one heavily towards it).

Kidney panel: None or only keep the inner kidney panel?

Some folks don't like it, I do - it's a high-wear spot for jacket linings; worth, imo, having it there as then you won't need a lining repair after some years of heavy wear.

Ball and chain hardware or diamond puller on the breast pocket?
Nickel, brass or antique brass hardware.

Personal choice, really. To my mind the best option for the breast pocket are those short chain loops with the ball - like you get on a dog tag, you know? Those are the easiest ones to replace if there's ever a breakage.

As to colour.... nickel looks great with black, though for brown my pick would be the brass. I find the shiny brass looks just a bit better to my eye now than the antqued, but again, personal choice - there's certainly no difference in quality / functionality.


Lining: Lochcarron tartan or olive heavy cotton drill.

The tartan looks amazing, though the drill will wear better. In my experience, a jacket with the drill is fractionally more wearable in warner weather without losing much in the cold. Your call, though.


Contrast stitching?

My Aero A2c has olive drab stitching on seal hide, and it looks fantastic. Subtle enough not to notice at first, but once you do, it really pops. I think red would look good on brown too - depends how obvious you want it to be, really. I'd be inclined to avoid white or cream given they can dirty easily.

I will order the jacket without shoulder gussets or bi-swing back (i don't need them for a good fit) and with one inside pocket without button or zipper.

Good plan. Make sure you specify which side you want the inner pocket on. Unless you'd find it desperately uncomfortable, my suggestion would be have it in the right breast, then your inner pocket isn't layering up with your outer breast pocket. This sort of thing can be important if you use both pockets (mostly my exterior pockets are for show). (This is assuming you'll have only one breast pocket, of course.... not applicable if you go for the twin look.

Anything else to consider? What would be your perfect Sheene?

The Original 59er Highwayman. ;)
 
Messages
16,464
I'm thinking about to order a Aero Sheene in brown FQHH. I like the fit of the Cafe Racer and Sheene. I already know my size and measurements.

But what about the details?

Zippers or no zippers on handwarmer pockets? I'm leaning to no zippers.
Zippers on sleeves or button cuffs?
What kind of joke on the back?
Kidney panel: None or only keep the inner kidney panel?
Ball and chain hardware or diamond puller on the breast pocket?
Nickel, brass or antique brass hardware.
Lining: Lochcarron tartan or olive heavy cotton drill.
Contrast stitching?

I will order the jacket without shoulder gussets or bi-swing back (i don't need them for a good fit) and with one inside pocket without button or zipper.

Anything else to consider? What would be your perfect Sheene?

In case you read this Monitor, yes i'm planing to kill another cafe racer, sorry ;) but i already have enough cafe racer jackets.

As long as you do it with a right collar... It's okay. :)

What Ton said, Premier range HWM collar. Or Seabiscuit. Looks even cooler. Okay, other than that... I don't know, I would always keep the zippered sleeves on a jacket that has them by default.
Single point yoke. I personally would ask for shoulder gussets but a Sheene would work either way as it is not strictly a motorcycle jacket.
Remove kidney panel, both in and out. I've noticed that the inner panel tends to show through the back of the jacket with time, just like Aero says the inside pocket would, and so much that the jacket starts to look like it actually has a kidney panel so it's best to get rid of it altogether. Or maybe have a rounded one installed? Like on Ridley.
For a brown jacket, brass or antique hardware works best. I really dislike Nickel hardware on a brown jacket but that's just me.
Olive cotton drill.
As for the stitching, there really isn't anything that would look significantly contrasting on a brown jacket so... Go with the standard brown thread.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,336
Location
Iowa
I think it's been pretty well nailed with what's said above. I own nearly exactly what you are looking to buy. Only real difference between what monitor said and is on my back is the my lining is a wool tartan (I'd go olive drill) and I do still have the inner kidney panel, which I would keep, as I can be rough on my jackets. Speaking of that, I have the zip sleeves too, and love them, they work very well with a backpack, where the button sleeves can get caught up in pack straps.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,309
Location
South of Nashville
You'll need to have one outside chest pocket, preferably with a zipper. I mean where else will you put the Aero tag that tells you who made your jacket? The zipper will keep it from getting lost out of the pocket if you remember to zip it closed. Moira Mac made two of mine (and did a fine job). The Highwayman I got 7 or 8 years ago has no name on the tag.
 

ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,890
Location
Sydney
I'm eagerly awaiting my Sheene to be finished and sent.

I went Seal Vicenza after agonising between that and the Dark Seal (and switching my order a few times!).

One chest pocket, with 1 no closure interior pocket on other side to cut down on bulk.

I went the zip hand warmers because I like to have extra pockets to carry stuff just in case but don't like to put my hands in them as they stretch out over time and this will dissuade me from using them, the zips will help keep them in shape and they keep that moto inspired look.

Smaller collar off the August jacket.

Single back yoke, no gussets.

Removed both inner and outer kidney panel so there is no show through.

Vintage brass hardware, diamond pull on chest pocket.

Standard zip sleeve.

Can't wait...
 

Fonzie

One Too Many
Messages
1,502
Location
Australia
I'm eagerly awaiting my Sheene to be finished and sent.

I went Seal Vicenza after agonising between that and the Dark Seal (and switching my order a few times!).

One chest pocket, with 1 no closure interior pocket on other side to cut down on bulk.

I went the zip hand warmers because I like to have extra pockets to carry stuff just in case but don't like to put my hands in them as they stretch out over time and this will dissuade me from using them, the zips will help keep them in shape and they keep that moto inspired look.

Smaller collar off the August jacket.

Single back yoke, no gussets.

Removed both inner and outer kidney panel so there is no show through.

Vintage brass hardware, diamond pull on chest pocket.

Standard zip sleeve.

Can't wait...

Sounds like it's gonna be awesome. Looking forward to seeing it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Insomnia

One of the Regulars
Messages
211
Location
Germany
Thank you all for your advise.

Now I'm thinking I got a plan:
Brown CXL (never had steer so it will be my first)
Olive contrast stiching
Antique brass hardware, diamond pull on chest pocket
Standard zip sleeves
Single back yoke, no guessets
No zippers on handwarmer pockets
No inner or outer kidney panel
3 pocket design
One inside pocket no closure
Olive cotton drill
 

Fonzie

One Too Many
Messages
1,502
Location
Australia
Thank you all for your advise.

Now I'm thinking I got a plan:
Brown CXL (never had steer so it will be my first)
Olive contrast stiching
Antique brass hardware, diamond pull on chest pocket
Standard zip sleeves
Single back yoke, no guessets
No zippers on handwarmer pockets
No inner or outer kidney panel
3 pocket design
One inside pocket no closure
Olive cotton drill

Very similar to what I ordered, but mine is black.
Great design, hopefully you'll receive it minus the issues I experienced.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,336
Location
Iowa
Here's a picture or two of my FQHH brown/cordovan Sheene with a pretty intense tartan lining...
DSC_0442.JPG DSC_0454.JPG DSC_0448.JPG DSC_0446.JPG
 

technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,236
Location
San Francisco
I remember when I ordered my first Sheene a few years back, everyone kept asking "What's a Sheene?" Now it's refreshing to see so many variations here.
I sold my first attempt a while back... it was a Brown FQHH. It always seemed a bit too loose...and I wasn't crazy about the collar. And now I have a second Sheene on order. Hopefully this one will be closer to the mark this time around.
So this time I went a size down. And I went with the new Vicenza
Black overdye horsehide (or "Blackened Brown".)
I'm really aiming for an early 60's Bates motorcycle racing jacket type of look so I've specified the following...
- Plain back with no gussets, just a standard single point yoke (like a Bates)
- Smaller "August" collar
- Zippered sleeves on top
- Two slanted chest pockets similar to a Board racer (again like a Bates)
- Brass hardware
- Diamond pocket zips
- No bottom kidney panel front or back
- No windflap
- Interior pocket
- Medium Brown contrast stitching
And I also went with zippered handwarmers, just because it's such a classic feature on motorcycle jackets (and Bates jackets), and I like the extra security from things falling out.
Can't wait to see how the new Blackened Brown horsehide turns out!
 
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Fonzie

One Too Many
Messages
1,502
Location
Australia
Interesting to point out that the August type collar seems to be only available if ordered through Thurston.
I went with mine directly through Aero and they told me that option wasn't possible, only the highwayman type collar.
I wonder why?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

dan_t

Practically Family
Messages
950
Location
Sydney, Australia
Only thing I would add is that the café racer as the donor jacket has quite a significant taper from the shoulders through to the waist.
If you're an athletic shape with a 'V' shaped torso, then that's great, if you're more of a stocky build, you might want to consider adding a little extra to the side panels. +0.5" or +1" on each side.

Not 100% sure myself on the difference with the Board Racer shape as the donor jacket, but that can also be used.
Thurston refer to it as a 'Seven', rather than a 'Sheene'.
 

technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,236
Location
San Francisco
Not 100% sure myself on the difference with the Board Racer shape as the donor jacket, but that can also be used.
Thurston refer to it as a 'Seven', rather than a 'Sheene'.


I tried both the Board Racer (Seven) and the Café Racer (Sheene) for a fit jacket when I was ordering my latest Aero jacket. Personally, I found that the Board Racer has more of a straight fit and slimmer shoulders while the Café Racer has more of a V shape. The Board Racer doesn’t have side panels, and the shoulders are narrower than the equivalent Café Racer. Also the armholes are higher on a Board Racer. The Board Racer is smaller than the equivalent Café Racer…so a size 40 in a Café Racer would approximate a size 42 in a Board Racer. I’m sure Carrie (at Thurston Bros.) or Aero can explain the subtle differences much more precisely than I can.
 
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Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,309
Location
South of Nashville
I tried both the Board Racer (Seven) and the Café Racer (Sheene) for a fit jacket when I was ordering my latest Aero jacket. Personally, I found that the Board Racer has more of a straight fit and slimmer shoulders while the Café Racer has more of a V shape. The Board Racer doesn’t have side panels, and the shoulders are narrower than the equivalent Café Racer. Also the armholes are higher on a Board Racer. The Board Racer is smaller than the equivalent Café Racer…so a size 40 in a Café Racer would approximate a size 42 in a Board Racer. I’m sure Carrie or Aero can explain the subtle differences much more precisely than I can.
And Carrie (and Wade) can also help you get a good fit the first time out of the box.
 

Insomnia

One of the Regulars
Messages
211
Location
Germany
Some things to add.

Thank you all for your advise and tips.

I will go with 1 chest pocket because I dont want another jacket with 2 slanted chest pockets because i already own one:

PremierHBblack1.jpg

I prefer the cafe racer fit. The cafe racer is more V-shaped and the board racer is a a straighter fit.

Here are my board racer and my old cafe racer jackets. Now i am 10 pound lighter then i was when i bought the cafe racer.

blackBR.jpg Board Racer2.jpg DSCF3820.jpg

Aero_Fan07, thank you for posting your jacket and your nice tartan lining. But i already have some jackets with different tartan linings.

@ton312
If I were building a sheene it would go as follows:
*Single point western yoke w/gussets
*Delete kidney panel
*collar like premier Highwayman

Have you seen the new Simmons Bilt pattern?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BSo4TjQArbt/?taken-by=simmonsbilt
 
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