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Panamas and Goodwood Festival

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I'll Lock Up
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5,918
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Sydney Australia
Where's your Panama from?
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 02/08/2007




Hilary Alexander looks into the new fashion craze, and history, behind the Panama

In pictures: Goodwood Panamas
Justin Timberlake, George Clooney, Pete Doherty and even, perish the thought, Britney Spears, may favour the Trilby. But at Glorious Goodwood – the famous summer race meeting on the Duke of Ric hmond’s estate in West Sus***, overlooking the South Downs – there is only one hat the fashionable man wants to be seen in - and that is The Panama.


Family affair: Lewis Williams, 6 and older bother Jason 14 with their grandfather Vaughan Williams
Today, at Glorious Goodwood may be Ladies’ Day. But everyday of this flat-racing festival is all about what the chaps are wearing. Battered, borrowed or band-box fresh from cardboard tubes where they conveniently roll-up for traveling,the ubiquitous Panama is the hat of choice.

Some have hatbands of navy to match dark jackets, some a crisp yellow or green band to match lighter-weight jackets or a distinctive purple to match shirt and tie.

Many are in the distinctive yellow and red stripes of the Goodwood colours, taken from a George Stubbs painting. And still others are bought on the spot from the Racing Colours shop on the Goodwood racetrack.

“Mine’s a Montecristo, from Goodwood,” said Richard Fulford-Smith. “Mine’s from Lock & Co,” said his friend, Rory Charles MacGregor Aird. Canadian Donald Van Every wore a panama he bought in Italy, which had the wide brim favoured by Al Capone.

“Mine’s a bit tired,” said Edward Dolan-Abrahams whose hat was enjoying its eighth Glorious Goodwood outing.

Alex Eade bought his from Bolivia for the equivalent of pounds £8, while Mark Ireland had borrowed his and its purple hat band was the perfect partner to his shirt and tie.

Gerry Albertini confessed his hat, from Deauville, was “probably twenty or thirty years old”, but it still looked smart with his black and white fine check suit, and Richard Springford’s Panama with a mustard-yellow band to match his tie, came from Ecuador – home of the Panama – via Puerto Banus.

School friends, Charles Settrington, 12, eldest son of the Earl of March – heir to the Goodwood estate - and Rufus Gibbs, tested out two panamas to see if they would keep the sun off their ice-creams.

Lewis Williams, 6, and his older brother Jason, a confirmed Glorious Goodwood devotee even at just 14, both wore smart straws converted by their grandmother with black ribbon bands.

Despite its name, the panama hat actually originates from Ecuador and can trace its origins back to the Incas in the 16th century. A Frenchman took some to the World Fair in Paris in 1855 and one was presented to Napoleon 111.

Later the name ‘panama’ was adopted when the workers building the Panama Canal wore these hats to shield their heads from the burning rays; a sentiment which would have been understood by any man at Glorious Goodwood the last two days.

Edward V11 started the Goodwood tradition of linen suits and panama hats for men in 1907 when he rejected morning dress in favour of this attire in 1907, deeming it more appropriate for “a garden party with racing attached.” Other famous wearers have included Churchill, Ernest Hemingway and Al Capone.

Although cheap panama hats made from paper now come from China and other bargain-versions are available in the high street, to truly qualify for the name, a Panama Hat must be made in Ecuador from fibres of the paja de toquilla plant.

The tradition of hand-weaving is passed down through the generations and the best weaving is said to be done by the light of the moon as the artisans continually dip their sharp, well-trained fingers in water, splitting the fibre into microscopic threads.

The finest hats, which are so closely woven they resemble silk, can cost as much as £4,000 – a snip compared to the £90 Edward V11 is said to have paid when he asked his Bond Street hatmaker, exactly 100 years ago, for the finest one that could be produced.
 

HungaryTom

One Too Many
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1,204
Location
Hungary
Very interesting article

Dear Cookie,

Thanks for the article with pictures!

Napoleon111 :D - vive l'empereur - loong dynasty!

Edward V11 started the Goodwood tradition of linen suits and panama hats for men in 1907– nice to hear that Panamas have free ambassadors also outside Ecuador and such marketing events. V11lol ?? - VII is better.

Some have hatbands of navy to match dark jackets, some a crisp yellow or green band to match lighter-weight jackets or a distinctive purple to match shirt and tie- thanks for the tips, deep purple ribbon….hmmm;)

Alex Eade bought his from Bolivia for the equivalent of pounds £8 – Appellation control, appellation control, appellation control

Although cheap panama hats made from paper now come from China – that FT article was really prolific - redefined the wikipedia article on Panama hats and also left its mark on this report

the best weaving is said to be done by the light of the moon as the artisans continually dip their sharp, well-trained fingers in water, splitting the fibre into microscopic threads–has ANYONE ever seen any toquilla weavers weaving at moonlight? Cloud free moonshine is only a few days a month. On all the websites with real ‘Montecristi’ weavers there is 0 photo with a weaver intentionally blinding himself/herself doing such meticulous work in darkness - when the mosquitos are the most active. Maybe we shall begin to collect some money for night vision goggles and microscopes and mosquito nets instead of eyeglasses.
And yes I wrote in darkness, since these poor weavers don't seem to have the money left for electricity bills to afford artificial light at night-weaving indoors by daylight is the norm, isn't it?

Birth of a legend: weavers with their sharpened needles weaving at full moon – do we end up with vampirism again? :eek:

Gerry Albertini confessed his hat, from Deauville, was “probably twenty or thirty years old”, - another confirmation that Montecristi really last long time.


£4,000:p - Just do it!

BTW Good insight into contemporary journalism.


HungaryTom
 

Edward

Bartender
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26,337
Location
London, UK
Four grand on a hat.... jinkies, I don't think my entire wardrobe cost four grand! :eek:

I got my first panama, a Montecristo, just last week. eBay, GBP25. Loving it! (especially loving the elasticated band, which keeps it from blowing off when the occasional gust happens!)
 

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