First, this website is awesome. It's such a great resource and there's so much collective knowledge. I've been lurking for a few months trying to figure out what I want and I think I have an idea. Wanted to run some details by people with knowledge and experience before I begin the order process, which may not actually start until the summer or later. I'm a long deliberator on big purchases. I think I've settled on an Aero Sheene in Dark Seal Vicenza. I am shorter 5'7", so I was thinking of going with the August collar to create more balance. I don't ride- so no zipper hand warmer pockets. Delete the chest pocket. I want a clean chest and don't think I would use a chest pocket. Back - standard Sheene, but I don't think I need/want gussets - any advice on this? What is the purpose of an internal kidney panel? Does it help the jacket drape in the back? Does it help with internal wear against a belt? Zipper - I was thinking of antique brass Talon. I don't want something shiny. Does anyone have pics of antique brass against Dark Seal Vicenza? Thread color - I have no idea. I don't want anything that stands out. What do people recommend? I like the look of a windflap. I saw people recommending starting it at the bottom of the zipper and ending it between the chest pocket and top of zipper. Any suggestions? Lining? What's something that would be good 45-60' F. I might like to go with a custom tartan featuring orange or purple. What's the difference in insulation and durability for light compared to medium weight? Does heavyweight make it too warm? Should the arms be lined differently, with something more durable or more slidey? What else am I missing? Thanks so much for your guidance and wisdom.