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StoryPNW

One Too Many
Messages
1,107
Location
Oregon
I finally received my new Superior Hats panama, unfortunately it seems US customs was less than gentle with the package as it came into the country.
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The hat is an OR clone of sorts, it has a 2 3/4" brim and a 4 1/4 crown at the crease. It's a little shorter crown than I would have preferred but Andres probably had to sacrifice some crown to give me a little wider brim than they normally make on this hat. He added the brim binding as well. I love the semi-calado weave.
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VoodooSan

One Too Many
Messages
1,416
Location
Caldwell, ID
I finally received my new Superior Hats panama, unfortunately it seems US customs was less than gentle with the package as it came into the country.
View attachment 639379
The hat is an OR clone of sorts, it has a 2 3/4" brim and a 4 1/4 crown at the crease. It's a little shorter crown than I would have preferred but Andres probably had to sacrafice some crown to give me a little wider brim than they normally make on this hat. He added the brim binding as well. I love the semi-calado weave.
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Oh, man, that is just all KINDS of spiff!!!
 

The Shoe

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,053
Location
Wakayama, Japan
Messages
11,516
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Stetson Playboy - Medium Brown
Ultra Thin Lightweight Felt
Approx 6 inch open crown - 4 3/4 as shaped
2 1/2 inch brim with single row stitching
7/8 Grosgrain Ribbon
Unlined with diamond shaped vents

A member of one of the Facebook hat groups posted about this Stetson Playboy for sale on Etsy. Try as i might… I could not resist. It looked a bit of a floppy mess.. but I could definitely see the diamond in the rough. And speaking of diamonds…. I combed through thirty three pages (and nearly 20 years of posts) of the Playboys on Parade thread to find one with the diamond vents… finally found one posted by Brent @deadlyhandsome just last year. I did see a couple with the snowflake vents in the roof.. like Eric’s @Short Balding Guy gorgeous Air Light Playboy. This one seems to be of similar vintage to Brent’s.. I would guess Mid 1950s. One interesting note about the vent holes… the placement is somewhat asymmetrical. With the bow side placed almost center while the other side is slightly further back to the rear. I don’t know if that is for a purpose or just how it ended up.

While all the evidence of sweat markings and tags point to a 1950s hat. The felt on this is incredibly thin and lightweight. The kind of felt you might find on a 30s or 40s hat. The hat is unlined…. Though I don’t know for sure if it came that way… a liner would kind of defeat the purpose of the vents. I don’t see any evidence of any type of tip logo… But I don’t think Brent’s hat had one either. Of my three Stetson Playboy hats one black and one blue/grey… this one has the most “playboy” vibe…. Considering its dimensions and super light weight felt. I only gave it a real good brushing…. Some time in the sun…. And an accidental drenching from an instant downpour while it was out there… but it shaped up quite well. It could probably use a bit of steam… however I actually preferred its super soft somewhat zaftig appearance as is… so I think I’ll hold off on that. I do think I prefer it with its brim curled up just a bit.

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Thundercolt

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
MN
My new favorite summer hat! The JAXON Cuenca Panama Straw Gambler.

This is a “Panama Canal” style hat made in Ecuador. (Panama hats have never been made in Panama). Most Ecuadorian families that weave these hats live in the rural regions of Cuenca and are part of a “weaving family” and have been for many generations. Each genuine Panama hat is handwoven from Paja Toquilla, a natural straw. The finer the weave, the more supple and flexible the hat will be.

The Panama Canal construction workers used Ecuadorian Hats as protection from the harsh sun. The name “Panama Hat” was introduced in 1906, when photos of President Roosevelt were published in the press, while he was overseeing construction of the Panama Canal.

This is not to be confused with the marketing term “Shantung Panama,” which are typically Cowboy style hats that are actually made out of a high-performance paper, which is rolled into a yarn, to imitate straw and then lacquered to hold their shape and make them water resistant.

I personally think of this hat as a “live” hat, because I can mist it with water and renew the natural pliability of the Toquilla straw fibers. I also easily changed the shape of the hat from standard round to extra-long oval. I started by misting the hat inside and out, then placing foam shims under the hat band, on both the front and back, before gently pulling the hat down on my head and wearing it until completely dry. Then I removed the foam shims and now I have a hat that fits perfectly, plus it is extremely light weight and very comfortable to wear all day long.

After wearing stiff, Shantung straw hats for years, I don’t think I will ever find a better summer hat than a genuine Toquilla, Panama hat. I’m aware that there is a whole world of higher quality Paja Toquilla Panama hats out there, but this one comfortably fits my head, and my wallet.

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Messages
18,279
Location
Nederland
Picked up a few I haven't posted yet. Let's start with this one.
Battersby first quality bowler. Size 56 (I think) with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 13cm. This hat has a had a tough life it seems and has been mucked about with. The brim binding is is not original as it is petersham ribbon and done poorly likely even glued (!). The sweatband is reeded on both sides with the reed sticking through in several places. It has been reattached at some time it seems. The liner has been glued in and could be a replacement. The hat weighs 164 grams and is probably thirties. It deserved better, but what can you do?

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Messages
18,279
Location
Nederland
The second hat from the same seller was blissfully left alone but it was certainly well loved.
Prima Qualität tophat in a size 56 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at a low 12,5cm. Weighs 201 grams. Some wear on the underside of the brim which was done with grosgrain and not silk pluche and also some wear alon the rim on the top of the crown. I got this along with the Battersby bowler at a low price and it didn't fit me, even though it is my size.
So I decided to bake it! Steve @Steve1857 has had some hands on experience with this and it hasn't scarred him for life, so I decided this was the candidate. Pre-heated the oven at 80 degrees Celsius and then placed the hat inside on a cloth towel. Baked it for another 6 minutes at the same tempereature. When I took it out it was perfectly moldable for about a minute or so. Placed it on my head and shaped it (take care with controlling the brim). Worked like a charm and it now fits me like a custom.

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Messages
18,279
Location
Nederland
Final one. Picked this one up in Tours, France, while on vacation there. Had a few dings and bumps, but nothing that couldn't be easily fixed.
JB Zephyr bowler in a size 56. Brim at 5cm and the crown at 13 cm. It is indeed "zephyr" in weight as it only weighs 103 grams. Not entirely sure about the maker though. The JB Zephyr points toward Jean Bourrel, but the size label has the letters BSF or SBF on it, which doesn't ring a bell. Sold by Eugene Butscher of La Rochelle.

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Thundercolt

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
MN
This is the “Thundercolt revision” of The Dakota from Agnoulita Hat Company.

To start with; Agnoulita Hats runs a great company and was a pleasure to deal with them. They have an amazing website that shows the hats from multiple angles and gives all the dimensions (I wish other companies did that!). They are upfront about their pricing and delivery schedule and ordering online was easy, plus my hat arrived 2 weeks ahead of time.

The Dakota is what I would call a Western Fedora. It is made from rabbit felt that is more on par with a Fedora weight, than a Western weight, so it’s lighter and more comfortable to wear throughout the day. The felt and hat band colors shown on the website were exactly what I received. I was also kept up-to-date on the location of the hat during the shipping and clearing customs process. The quality of this hat is well above the price I paid and I am quite pleased with my new Agnoulita Hat!

As soon as I received it, I knew I had to start about restyling it to match my character. It came with a Cattleman’s crease and turned up brim, neither fit my style. I added some profile to the sides and dropped down the front of the brim. Then I went to town on that crease, turning it into more of an Arena style crease. Now it looks like MY hat :>)

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hambone71

Practically Family
Messages
681
Location
Roll Tide
This is the “Thundercolt revision” of The Dakota from Agnoulita Hat Company.

To start with; Agnoulita Hats runs a great company and was a pleasure to deal with them. They have an amazing website that shows the hats from multiple angles and gives all the dimensions (I wish other companies did that!). They are upfront about their pricing and delivery schedule and ordering online was easy, plus my hat arrived 2 weeks ahead of time.

The Dakota is what I would call a Western Fedora. It is made from rabbit felt that is more on par with a Fedora weight, than a Western weight, so it’s lighter and more comfortable to wear throughout the day. The felt and hat band colors shown on the website were exactly what I received. I was also kept up-to-date on the location of the hat during the shipping and clearing customs process. The quality of this hat is well above the price I paid and I am quite pleased with my new Agnoulita Hat!

As soon as I received it, I knew I had to start about restyling it to match my character. It came with a Cattleman’s crease and turned up brim, neither fit my style. I added some profile to the sides and dropped down the front of the brim. Then I went to town on that crease, turning it into more of an Arena style crease. Now it looks like MY hat :>)

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Excellent work on that brim! I tend to do the same with my curled brims.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,748
Location
Denmark
The second hat from the same seller was blissfully left alone but it was certainly well loved.
Prima Qualität tophat in a size 56 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at a low 12,5cm. Weighs 201 grams. Some wear on the underside of the brim which was done with grosgrain and not silk pluche and also some wear alon the rim on the top of the crown. I got this along with the Battersby bowler at a low price and it didn't fit me, even though it is my size.
So I decided to bake it! Steve @Steve1857 has had some hands on experience with this and it hasn't scarred him for life, so I decided this was the candidate. Pre-heated the oven at 80 degrees Celsius and then placed the hat inside on a cloth towel. Baked it for another 6 minutes at the same tempereature. When I took it out it was perfectly moldable for about a minute or so. Placed it on my head and shaped it (take care with controlling the brim). Worked like a charm and it now fits me like a custom.

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Gently and easily is definitely the right working method, Stefan. Glad to hear you finally found a candidate for the hat bake experiment.
 
Messages
18,279
Location
Nederland

RickP

Practically Family
Messages
707
Mailman delivered another Champ Featherweight today.. My old one is more of an darker olive/ brown felt and olive ribbon... this ones is a lighter actual brown and brown ribbons. ( I was worried that they would turn out to be the same color....I didnt really need duplicates with my limited wall space lol) Now I have two to choose from. Should make a more complementary match some of the shirts.

Was well packaged and in really nice shape but needs just a bit of tickling on the stretcher and some work on a couple wavy brim spots. Im a big fan of the Featherweights

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