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Rudie‘s Official Trade Thread - Lots of different stuff, even for women

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
1930s/40s Sportcoat/Orphaned suit jacket, 1950s Suit, Spearpoint Collar Shirt, Short Tweed Jacket, Caps, Hats, 1950s Gloverall Duffle Coat, Avirex (now Cockpit) Irvin Jacket, Work Trousers, Knit Sweater Vests (One For Women)

See pictures and descriptions below.

I need to let go some stuff I never wear. Some originals, some repros. I would prefer trades or partial trades, but I am also open to selling. Please follow the links to see more pictures.

I am in the market for a brown or grey 1920/1930s fedora in US7 with a high, straight crown and short brim (2 to 2 1/4“), vintage shoes size US10.5, UK10, EU44.5 in a narrow to medium width and suits/sportcoats (preferably late 1920s to 1940s). Chest 40, shoulders 19“, sleeves about 27.5 or with enough seam allowance. Trousers W32/33, inseam 32/34 (depending on how low the crotch is). Just let me know if you are interested in one or more items and think you have something to trade.

1930s German SB Suit Jacket/Sportcoat Sz. 42/43L


IMG_1219.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209...authkey=Gv1sRgCOSZ38mo74rv3QE&feat=directlink

Orphaned SB suit jacket with peak lapels and 3 buttons. When I got it over 20 years ago I had it taken in a bit. At the time I was an athlete but now it is much too loose for me. I don‘t think it can be taken in more, so please take that into account.

Brown with alternating chalk stripes in red brown/orange and dark brown. Very sturdy, heavy worsted wool. Heavily padded shoulders. Left sleeve lining needs restitching as well as the lining on the right shoulder. Both are easy fixes. No label, probably bespoke. Lots of hand stitching. The sleeve lining shows some discoloration towards the cuffs. The outside of the coat is immaculate. I hate to let this one go, but I could use it as a DB, so it has to find a new home.

Measurements

Shoulder seam to seam 49cm/19“
Chest (pit to pit) 57cm/22.5“
Back length 76.5cm/30“
Sleeves (shoulder seam to cuff) 69cm/27“


Vintage Japanese Summer Driver‘s Cap, Sz. 7

IMG_1162.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/JapaneseCap?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOKuhJubsfnGbw&feat=directlink


This cap is made from a light, yet sturdy see-through fabric in an open weave. I have no idea what exactly it is. Could even be man-made. The strap is non-functional. The seam where the snap is is a tad loose. It was like this when I got it (then NOS). The cap is fully wearable.

Brim length 4.5cm/1.75“
Brim width 18cm/7“
Across top 24cm/9.5“

Jantzen Spearpoint Repro 1920s/1930s British Pullover Shirt, Sz. 16 1/3 With Loooong Sleeves


IMG_1216.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/JantzenSpearpoint?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCO7snP-_8NaSBA&feat=directlink


My loss is your win. This was the second shirt I ordered from Jantzen. The first was a faithful copy of one of Baron Kurtz‘s vintage British shirts. Unfortunately, they messed up the second one and made it with a collar that is a whopping three centimeters too large for me. They also made the tails the same length as the front instead of about 3 inches longer.

This shirt is unworn, perfectly new. Beautiful grey on white stripes with a self-pattern. 13.5“ half placket (pullover style), side gussets, barrel cuffs. The collar has a unique curve in the back. The spearpoint is the real deal. Split yoke and two double pleats in the back for better fit.

Measurements:

Collar points 11 cm/4.33“
Neck 41.5 cm/16.33“
Shoulder seam to seam 50cm/19.67“
Back length collar seam to hem 86cm/33.85“
Chest pit to pit 60cm/23.62“
Sleeves shoulder seam to end of cuff 72cm/28.33“
Full sleeve length middle of collar to end of cuff 98cm


German 1930s Fedora With Back Bow US7 or 7 1/8 - Gr. 56/57cm

IMG_0888.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/BerolinaFedora?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLb45cH67t-RIw&feat=directlink


This hat is a real beauty. Unfortunately, the brim is too large to suit my face. This hat still had some newspaper from 1938 behind the sweatband when I got it. Sweatband is unreeded and reads „Berolina“. No liner. It has a tall, straight crown and back bow. Bound brim. The hat is a large size US7 - Gr. 56, so would probably work for a 7 1/8 head as well. Color is black.

Measurements
Open crown 6“
Crown as creased 4.75“
Brim 2.75“
Ribbon 2“


Short Tweed Jacket Size 42L

IMG_0966.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/40sTweedJacket?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJCw4Km8u-3HIw&feat=directlink


I have no idea when this jacket was made. It was sold to me as 40s. The fabric is outstanding. The pictures don‘t do the color justice. Some buttons have small chips and the seam that holds the pleat below the right chest pocket in place is a bit loose.

Measurements (taken with garment lying flat)
Shoulder seam to seam 52cm/20.5“
Chest pit to pit 56cm/22“
Back length (from collar seam) 57.5cm/22.65“
Sleeves (Shoulder seam to cuff) 66.5cm/26“


Super Barbisio Extra Lusso Fedora Chamois - Size US 7 - Gr. 56 - Punti 4 1/2

IMG_0834.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/BarbisioChamois?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCP3Yks_S3cKTcQ&feat=directlink


This hat was made by one of Italy‘s top hat makers, Barbisio. Probably dates from the 1960s. It has a wonderful milk coffee brown chamois felt. It is very pliable and holds a dry bash very well.

The brim is bound with a 1 cm grosgrain ribbon. The leather sweat band is reeded and taped at the back.

The hat has some minor issues. The ribbon has come loose a bit on the left behind the bow. The liner is loose as well. At the front and back of the leather sweat band there is a 2 in/5 cm part each where it needs to be restitched. These are all easy fixes.

Measurements:

Size: US 7 - UK 7 1/8 - 56 cm - Punti 4 1/2
Inside circumference: 22 in
Open crown: 5 7/8 in - 15 cm
Brim width: 2 in - 5 cm
Ribbon width: 1 in - 2.5 cm


Women‘s Knit Waistcoat

IMG_1231.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209...authkey=Gv1sRgCMrEg9SIhcb-hQE&feat=directlink


This beautiful knit waistcoat appears to be unworn. Very finely knit. Not sure if it‘s cotton or wool. Probably wool. Made in Italy, nice label. Waistband is 10,5cm/4“ high.

Measurements lying flat, unstretched

Shoulders 40cm/15.75“
Pit to pit 49cm/19.3“
Waist 28cm/11“
Back length 52cm/20.5“


1940s/1950s - SIze 39R/40R 30W - DB Suit - Hollywood Waist - Dropped Belt Loops

IMG_0820.jpg


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/50sDB?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNq7qcCc8qfpiAE&feat=directlink


Unusual DB with notched lapels. Light grey and blue mid-weight wool with a light blue overcheck. 1949 union tag.

MEASUREMENTS:

Taken with garments laying flat:

Chest: 106 cm/41.75 in
Shoulder seam to seam: 48 cm/19 in
Sleeve length: 65,5 cm/25.75 in
Total length from collar seam: 82 cm/32.25 in

Waist: 76 cm/30 in (Can be let out 2 in if needed.)
Inseam: 75 cm/29.5 in
Outseam: 103.5 cm/40.75 in
Leg bottom: 22,5 cm/9 in
Knees: 34 cm/13.4 in

Two buttons at the left cuff are missing - easy fix. The inside button was replaced at one time and is a bit loose. At the end of the left cuff and two inches above the back hem are two small moth holes. At the back of the trousers are also two tiny holes. Not very obvious. The suit can be worn as it is. It would be an easy fix for a reweaver, if you choose to have it mended.


Ca. 1950s B&W Houndstooth Eight-Panel Newsboy Cap Small Sz. 7

IMG_1174.jpg


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209...authkey=Gv1sRgCNK_99KCvNDu9QE&feat=directlink

Very nice vintage houndstooth cap. Needs some stretching, is closer to a 6 7/8 - Gr. 55cm. Lined with black satin, sweat band is vinyl. The logo is unreadable.

Across top 26cm/10.25“
Brim length 5cm/2“
Brim width 18cm/7“


More to come in the next post.
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
continued

Knit Sweater Vest Linen/Cotton

IMG_1203.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/KnitSweaterVest?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCKqo8JiAr9yyMQ&feat=directlink


Lightly worn knit sweater vest made from 56% linen and 44% cotton. V-neck. Tag says size M, but if you go for a trim vintage look this is a much larger size. Please refer to the measurements. Color is a greyish light blue.

Measurements lying flat, unstretched

Chest (pit to pit) 55cm/21.5“
Back length 61cm/24“
Waist 50cm/19.5“


Juke Jive 1920s/1930s Style Work Trousers

IMG_1200.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/JukeJiveWorker?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCK-h_an-1OSQAw&feat=directlink


Hardly worn. The part where the thread is loose at the inside hem of the waistband was like this when I bought it. The seams are sound. Fit pics on the Juke Jive website:
http://www.juke-jive.de/xtshop/product_info.php?info=p16_Worker-2-Braunoliv.html


Measurements
Sz. 32, actual waist size 80cm/31.5“
Rise 32cm/12.5“
Inseam 79.5/31.3“
Outseam 111.5cm/43.9“
Leg width (hem) 26cm/10,25“


Dobbs Fifteen Fedora with Guild Edge - Size US 6 7/8 - Gr. 55 cm

IMG_0857.JPG


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/DobbsFifteen?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJv1xbGwn-uVgAE&feat=directlink


1950s, rich milk brown color, Cavanagh Edge. Unfortunately, this hat has some issues. Some moth tracks, but no actual holes and the liner is loose and needs restitching. The felt is very nice.

Measurements:

Size: US 6 7/8 - 55 cm
Inside circumference: 21 2/3 in
Open crown: just shy of 5 in/ 12,5 cm
Brim width: 2.17 in/5,5 cm
Ribbon width: 2.17 in/5,5 cm


Stetson Stingy Brim Trilby Hat - Size US 7 - Gr. 56

IMG_0879.jpg


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/StetsonStingy?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCKa8tan7psnLogE&feat=directlink


Stingy brim trilby made from black fur felt. Worn just a few times. Cost €59.00 when new.

Open crown: 5 1/3 in - 13,5 cm
Brim width: 2 in - 5 cm
Ribbon width: 0.7 in - 1,8 cm


Vintage Gloverall Duffle Coat - Tall Size

IMG_0977.jpg


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/VintageGloverallDuffleCoat?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCPeE1fe14ZuhYA&feat=directlink


This duffle coat was most likely made in the 1950s, by Gloverall, the originator of today‘s non-military duffle coats with horn buttons and leather toggles. This type of duffle coat is known as „checkback“ and can be seen on the Gloverall website www.gloverall.com under heritage/iconic garments. There are very few of these wonderful coats around these days, let alone in such great condition in a tall size like this. There are obviously signs of wear and use, but the only real flaw I can find is the partially torn hanger.

It is made from brown, sturdy wool and lined with a wonderful tartan in black, brown and grey. Unlike most modern duffle coats, the fabric of this one is 100% wool.

The leather toggles have been replaced as the original toggles crumpled to dust. The horn buttons are still original. The hood is adjustable and has a throat latch that is buttoned to the side when not in use. On most vintage duffle coats these latches are missing. The coat has two big flapped patch pockets. The shoulders are reinforced with the characteristic double layer.

There is no size tag, so please go by the actual measurements provided. All measurements taken from the outside with the garment laying flat.


Measurements

Shoulder seam to seam: 20.5 in/52 cm
Pit to pit: 26.75 in/68 cm
Sleeves (shoulder seam to cuff): 27 in/68 cm
Sleeves (pit to cuff): 18 in/46 cm
Full sleeve length (middle of collar to cuff):
Length (without the hood): 42 1/3 in/107.5 cm


B!Wear Eight-Panel Newsboy Cap Sz. M

IMG_1175.jpg


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/BWearCap?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOacxJOCro-EwAE&feat=directlink


Brown POW check, wool. Leather sweatband has some stains. Size fits US7 and 7 1/8 - Gr. 56/57cm.

Across top 28cm/11“
Brim length 6.5cm/2.5“
Brim width 17cm/6.7“


RAF Irvin Sheepskin Leather Flying Jacket Repro by Avirex (Now Cockpit) - Size 46

IMG_0988.jpg


More pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/117209387688553990981/AvirexCockpitIrvin?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLSM8PrBhsPHOA&feat=directlink


This Irvin repro was made by Avirex (now Cockpit) in the early 1990s and cost me 1,800 deutschmark then (around €900.00/£710.00/US $1,115.00). While this repro is not faithful to the originals it is still a very decent jacket. Over the years it has developed a beautiful patina.

On the inside bottom hem there is a slight blueish discoloration to the fleece due to raw denim. The belt at the hip was shortend by a professional tailor to accommodate a narrower waist. All seams are taped with leather strips to protect them from wear. The jacket has two handwarmer pockets made from sturdy cotton duck. Sturdy Scovill zippers.

Considering the age the jacket is in wonderful condition. It has aged very nicely.

Size 46. Please see exact measurements. All measurements taken from the outside with the garment laying flat.

Shoulder seam to seam: 22 in/56 cm
Pit to pit: 25 1/5 in/64 cm
Sleeves (shoulder seam to cuff): 26.75 in/68 cm
Sleeves (pit to cuff): 21.25 in/54 cm
Full sleeve length (middle of collar to cuff): 38.5 in/98 cm
Back length (collar seam to bottom hem): 28 1/3 in/72 cm


PM with interest. Thanks.
 

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