Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Marc Chevalier, Feb 15, 2012.

  1. Papperskatt

    Papperskatt Practically Family

    Messages:
    506
    Location:
    Sweden
    I think that you should take it in. Then you also get some excess fabric that you can use to patch the holes. :)

    The sellers photos made me think that the jacket was from the 30s. Had I realised that it was older I would've gotten that one too... Oh well!
     
  2. Dostioffsky

    Dostioffsky One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    213
    Location:
    the Netherlands
    That's a good point! Hadn't thought of it...

    I always had the impression the jacket was 1910's, looking back I'm not even quite sure why. I think it was the button stance.
     
  3. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,278
    Location:
    Germany
    Ca. 1935 - 1940 grey flannel chalkstripe DB.
    The tailoring details are IMO indicative of Northern European (Dutch, Scandinavian or German) provenance.
    The typically German bowled buttons are replacements by me.
    The original coat buttons were replaced previously by modern grey plastic buttons.
    I chose light brown 30's buttons because the trouser buttons are just like that.

    A perfect fit for me (after letting out the side seams of the coat).

    The tie is the great "Mosley" by TT.

    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: May 5, 2015
  4. Patrick Hall

    Patrick Hall Practically Family

    Messages:
    541
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    Another great find, Fastuni. The jacket REALLY pops with those new/old buttons!
     
  5. esteban68

    esteban68 Call Me a Cab

    Wonderful Fastuni, the green tie really sets it all off as do those buttons!
     
  6. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,022
    Location:
    East Sussex, England
    has it got tunnel belt loops ?
     
  7. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,278
    Location:
    Germany
    Yes!

    Thanks guys.
     
  8. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,022
    Location:
    East Sussex, England
    Fastuni, you don't think that suit could be British ?
     
  9. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,278
    Location:
    Germany
    Could be... but not primarily because of the tunnel loops.
    Those can be found on Scandinavian and sometimes German trousers, too.
    Incidentally the suit was bought by the previous owner in London.
    Hard to pinpoint the provenance, for sure.
     
  10. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,022
    Location:
    East Sussex, England
    no, the tunnel belt loops would be unusual on a British suit, but there are examples out there.

    several things look immediately British to me; the body and sleeve linings, the way the inside pocket is done, the type of trouser waist-lining and overall trouser construction.

    great suit wherever it was made !
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2015
  11. brendanm720

    brendanm720 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    107
    Location:
    The Torrid Zone
    Holy Moley. That's great!
     
  12. Two Types

    Two Types I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,456
    Location:
    London, UK
    It does have hybrid elements: interior pocket looks British stye, as does trouser lining, trouser buttons and waist closure. But, if I remember correctly, the pocket flap shape is more Germanic looking and I would have expected the trouser pockets to be on the side seam if it was British.

    Also, what about the shoulder shape? It's hard to tell from the photo but it appears to have a very straight line whereas German suits often have a different shape (going up towards the sleeve - but I can't remember exactly when that shape changed).

    Doesn't really matter, all that counts is that it looks bloody nice (especially with my old tie).
     
  13. herringbonekid

    herringbonekid I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,022
    Location:
    East Sussex, England
    TT, not all British trouser pockets were cut on the side seam. here's a pair of CC41's that are angled forward:

    [​IMG]

    and here's another atypical pair (also CC41) with two waist buttons and a similar (to Fastuni's) pocket flap shape:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2015
  14. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,278
    Location:
    Germany
    I have a pair of Finnish trousers that have tunnel loops and slanted side pockets.
    That's why I was thinking about a Scandinavian background.

    TT, regarding the shoulder shape.
    In German fashion the periodization is roughly:
    1933-1936 hollow shoulders (like a slight "pagoda")
    1937-1940 very straight shoulders (sometimes angled upwards slightly)
    After 1941 it became fashionable (per tailoring periodicals) to have them slope down slightly like a shallow roof.
    But that didn't become widespread until after the war.
     
  15. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,278
    Location:
    Germany
    Czech sportcoat.
    Likely early 1950's - tailor-made in Budweis.
    Rather stiff, but smooth surfaced, heathered camel-colored wool twill.

    Welted pockets and short double vents. Fishmouth lapels pressed to the middle button.

    I have yet to finish the let out sleeves.

    [​IMG]

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  16. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,495
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Nice and unusual! Looks like a practical option for mild weather.
     
  17. simonc

    simonc Practically Family

    Messages:
    918
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    It looks like wool covert cloth.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2015
  18. Papperskatt

    Papperskatt Practically Family

    Messages:
    506
    Location:
    Sweden
    I find the short vent very strange; can't really see the practical use for it.
     
  19. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,278
    Location:
    Germany
    Fashion isn't always practical. :)
     
  20. Two Types

    Two Types I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,456
    Location:
    London, UK
    Those short vents seem to have been very common in the late forties and early fifties on British tweed jackets.

    And yes, it does look like covert cloth.

    The jacket has an odd, and quite distinctive look. The hip pockets look like they are cut on an angle. I had expected that Czech tailors would use the same interior pocket arrangement as seen on German suits. But that is more like a British interior pocket.
     

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