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Slant pockets on suits?

Fidena

One of the Regulars
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142
Location
orange ct
Is this something that can be pulled off? Instead of the normal flap pocket on a jacket, they had "hand warmer" pockets. It seemed pretty popular back in the teens and early twenties- a sporty look for the sporty suits of the time. Here are a few examples:

pKxIf.jpg


2bQup.jpg


I've noticed that they also have slanted breast pockets.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
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2,456
Location
Philly
That is interesting, since it looks more like a coat than a suit jacket. I think it works, but it would feel out of place to me as soon as I went inside.
 

Fidena

One of the Regulars
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142
Location
orange ct
That is interesting, since it looks more like a coat than a suit jacket. I think it works, but it would feel out of place to me as soon as I went inside.

If it helps at all, in the catalogue pages I've seen them in they're usually described as "young men's suits" or "novelty suits". I don't quite know what a novelty suit is, or what the occasion one wore them at in the 20's, but it;s interesting nonetheless.
 

Nick D

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2,166
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Upper Michigan
Novelty is just what it says on the tin, something new and rather unconventional. But, the slant pocket (not quite that slanted) is a standard feature on hacking jackets and outdoor wear, and that suit has a definite sportswear feel to it.
 

Matt_the_chap

One of the Regulars
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129
Location
Sheffield, England
I'd definitely have them on my suits to both set them apart and make them comfortable as I like to keep my hands in my pockets. You could have deeper pockets as a result.

They might be rather more exciting if a way could be found of putting a flap on them, or would that look hideous to all but me?
 

Feraud

Bartender
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17,190
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
great thinking but it still is old fashioned. something new should be introduced which can catch people's interest.
As I pointed out in the three button suit thread members post on this forum because those "old fashioned" styles appeal to us.

There are trendy fashion message boards out there if you want to push the fashionable angle.

To answer the OP, if a suit in that cut is available, I can pull it off.
 

Fidena

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
orange ct
The belt definately adds to the sporty look. Does anyone else love the cut of that peak lapel? It doesn't shoot to the sky like most, and instead drifts down slightly, almost like a notch. Seemed pretty popular back in the early 1900's.
 

MisterCairo

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,005
Location
Gads Hill, Ontario
I've never seen jackets like those before. I see different things each time I look back - a coat, a dressing gown, a smoking jacket. The belted jacket in the photograph looks almost trench-coatish. Different images come to mind. Do you have any written descriptions of these suits, or does anyone else?
 

Fidena

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
orange ct
I've never seen jackets like those before. I see different things each time I look back - a coat, a dressing gown, a smoking jacket. The belted jacket in the photograph looks almost trench-coatish. Different images come to mind. Do you have any written descriptions of these suits, or does anyone else?

I'll try and find a description.

In the meantime, here are a few more examples.

joymq.jpg


zi1fy.jpg
(The fellow all the way to the right)

plKu0.jpg


When I order a suit from magnoli, I'm going to try and see if they can pull off a suit like one of these.
 

Oldsarge

One Too Many
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1,440
Location
On the banks of the Wilamette
It looks very country. I can imagine a suit with a half belt and slant pockets made from a Donegal tweed as just the ticket for watching the local Hunt ride by or possibly to investigate the possibilities of the nearest chalk stream. Frankly, I like it a lot. If my parents still owned that winery in the Napa Valley it would be perfect wear to go visit them. Alas, those days are past.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
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2,456
Location
Philly
I'll try and find a description.

In the meantime, here are a few more examples.

joymq.jpg

I like this one (the chap in the lower left). I don't think the full belt looks particularly good on a jacket instead of a coat or similar outerwear, but the slant pockets are nice with the half belt like that suit. I would definitely wear it.
 

Fidena

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
orange ct
I like this one (the chap in the lower left). I don't think the full belt looks particularly good on a jacket instead of a coat or similar outerwear, but the slant pockets are nice with the half belt like that suit. I would definitely wear it.

I agree. The lack of shoulder padding and high armholes also adds to the nice sporty look.
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
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590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
There is shoulder padding, I assure you. The sleeve head is just made differently than today, without the "rope" effect. There would also probably be padding all around the armscye, even in the back of the jacket.
 

Fidena

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
orange ct
There is shoulder padding, I assure you. The sleeve head is just made differently than today, without the "rope" effect. There would also probably be padding all around the armscye, even in the back of the jacket.

Could you explain what those two terms mean? Color me interested.

Edit: if it was made out of heavy enough wool, (say 20 oz ) would it still need shoulder padding? Given it's sportwear, I wouldn't consider that too heavy.
 
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Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
Could you explain what those two terms mean? Color me interested.

Edit: if it was made out of heavy enough wool, (say 20 oz ) would it still need shoulder padding? Given it's sportwear, I wouldn't consider that too heavy.

Armscye is basically the armhole and sleeve head/cap is the top of the sleeve. And roping, if you didn't know, is when the sleeve looks like it has a rope inside it right along the seam at the shoulder. There would be less material (in general) in the shoulder pad than has been common for the past few years, but still much more than the "soft construction" which is all the rage nowadays on various other forums. It gives a "natural" shoulder but neatly so.
No jacket strictly needs shoulder padding (depending of course on the desired style, "softness" and so on), but I'm fairly certain all the suits & jackets pictured in this thread have it.
An illustratory diagram: http://www.archive.org/stream/newsupremesystem00croo#page/206/mode/1up
Diagram C shows a common way of using the padding. What you are looking at is the inside of the suit. You can see a straight line through the canvas in the illustration, which is where the lapel will fold back. To the right of that line is the padding (or wadding), and to the right again is the armhole. As you can see, the piece of padding envelops the armhole.
Btw, this book contains a few fashion illustrations too.
 

Fidena

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
orange ct
Armscye is basically the armhole and sleeve head/cap is the top of the sleeve. And roping, if you didn't know, is when the sleeve looks like it has a rope inside it right along the seam at the shoulder. There would be less material (in general) in the shoulder pad than has been common for the past few years, but still much more than the "soft construction" which is all the rage nowadays on various other forums. It gives a "natural" shoulder but neatly so.
No jacket strictly needs shoulder padding (depending of course on the desired style, "softness" and so on), but I'm fairly certain all the suits & jackets pictured in this thread have it.
An illustratory diagram: http://www.archive.org/stream/newsupremesystem00croo#page/206/mode/1up
Diagram C shows a common way of using the padding. What you are looking at is the inside of the suit. You can see a straight line through the canvas in the illustration, which is where the lapel will fold back. To the right of that line is the padding (or wadding), and to the right again is the armhole. As you can see, the piece of padding envelops the armhole.
Btw, this book contains a few fashion illustrations too.

That's an excellent resource. Thanks for the info! Btw, do you know what year the book is from?

If I gave one of these illustrations to a tailor, would it be enough for him to know how to construct it?
 
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