Sources of newer suits based on older designs

Discussion in 'Suits' started by PeterGunnLives, Nov 23, 2016.

  1. PeterGunnLives

    PeterGunnLives One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    221
    Location:
    West Coast
    I couldn't find a thread specifically on this, so here we go. Sometimes, for whatever reason (can't find our size, can't find what we're looking for in good condition, etc.), we may opt for new suits, trousers, waistcoats, etc. instead of going authentic vintage. It can be difficult finding something new specifically based on vintage designs or looks.

    So here's your chance to recommend particular manufacturers, tailors, vendors, etc. who specialize in such things. Here are a few to start:

    Gentleman's Emporium. You can re-create various nineteenth to early twentieth century outfits: https://www.gentlemansemporium.com/mens_victorian_outfits.php

    20th Century Chap. Based in the UK, inspired by 30s and 40s looks, though not completely accurate in the cut. I think their clothes look sharp. http://www.20thcenturychap.com/

    Magnoli Clothiers. A lot of their items are based on clothing that appeared in movies and TV, from classic to contemporary. https://www.magnoliclothiers.com/

    Do you know of other good sources for this type of stuff?
     
  2. Luftwaffles

    Luftwaffles One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    226
    Location:
    South Carolina, US
    Wow thanks for showing me Magnolia, never knew of that
    Paul Fredrick has some very nice patterns of dress shirts and ties and I like that you can order a three piece double breasted suit
    http://www.paulfredrick.com/
     
  3. Fading Fast

    Fading Fast

    Messages:
    14,857
    Location:
    New York City
    J. Peterman - while a shell of its former self - still does some interesting vintage style clothes - suits, sport coats, pants, sweaters, shirts, etc.

    The quality is hit or miss, but on sale, usually decent value.

    http://www.jpeterman.com/Men?by=Departments
     
  4. Dirk Wainscotting

    Dirk Wainscotting A-List Customer

    Messages:
    355
    Location:
    Irgendwo
    I make clothes from the 30s/40s/50s period (mostly late 30s) on the side. It's not a going concern or anything, but I have made replica stuff for a few stage productions and people who go on things like the tweed runs.

    From experience I'd be wary of people saying they make stuff from old drafts. A lot of the techniques for making them up are very difficult and some have disappeared. It's one thing to take a draft from 'The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring' or whatever, but there's no guarantee it will look right.
    Some of the repro trousers offered are frankly awful and it results from applying modern making techniques to drafts that require ironwork and other manipulations. The assumption would have been that a draft would be for a wool; others would be specially designed for cotton where iron manipulation is mostly eliminated - work trousers would be in this category where lack of a clean seat and shaping is less of an issue.
     
    Patrick Hall and Benproof like this.
  5. Benproof

    Benproof A-List Customer

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    England
    What about 1st Pat RN Dirk? They're from Italy too.

    I don't know if they are accurate period representation but they are very suave and stylish with a gentlemanly flair.
     
  6. Dirk Wainscotting

    Dirk Wainscotting A-List Customer

    Messages:
    355
    Location:
    Irgendwo
    I don't know what that is. It looks like the name of a battalion!
     
  7. sebastian czentner

    sebastian czentner One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    Great thread, im looking for good waist coat or tropusers. Although the puonds is to much expensive to me T_T
     
  8. Benproof

    Benproof A-List Customer

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    England

    Sorry - I should've linked it. It's an Italian off the rack couturier:

    http://www.1stpat-rn.it/?page_id=488

    Very low key - 1st pattern cut with soft tailoring. It comes from military styling although it's so subtle most don't notice it. They cut to original patterns - supposedly.
     
  9. Benproof

    Benproof A-List Customer

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    England
    [​IMG]
    Are you sure...? The £ pound has lost about 1/3rd of its value. Waistcoat makers are everywhere - maybe in the UK they are popular for middling seasons - when we can't decide if we are too hot with a blazer on indoors, or too cold without indoors...or need an extra layer without becoming paralysed at the armpits, elbows, wrists, from excessively bulky sweaters underneath a blazer. Quite a few UK brands and even cheap ones like Pretty Green; White Stuff make waistcoats which you should be able to afford - and in winter, they shave almost 40% off:


    http://www.whitestuff.com/mens/waistcoats/

    The Thunder one is probably one of their nicer ones with the lapel collar but it's discontinued. Build quality is fine for the price.

    Private White also do some, but less traditional: http://www.privatewhitevc.com/online-shop/mens/tops-bottoms/blazers-waistcoats.html

    Janet Steward makes custom made ones for pretty cheap: http://janetsteward.co.uk/Customers/index.htm

    Tom Sawyer makes customs and ones which are just plain silly. His steam punk ones are quite cool:

    http://www.tomsawyerwaistcoats.co.uk

    http://www.tomsawyerwaistcoats.co.uk/webupload/TSAWYER/CUSTOM/2016/LARGE/truffle-steampunk-lge.jpg
     
  10. Benproof

    Benproof A-List Customer

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    England
    "I don't know what that is. It looks like the name of a battalion!"


    In a way ... it is! 1st Pat RN are Italian - 1st Pattern from the military dye/cut specialists in soft tailoring using vintage pat-terns:

    http://www.1stpat-rn.it/?page_id=497

    Some great vintage cut clothing. There's plenty of other modern designers who are into vintage ressurection - some are heritage brands as well. I don't know how authentic 1st Pat RN are, but their soft tailoring is incredible - great textures unlike the sandpaper feel of duck canvas military vintage clothing!
     
  11. Claudio

    Claudio Vendor

    Messages:
    377
    Location:
    Italian living in Spain
    I make 20's inspired suits (amongst other 60's inspired stuff), made in one-off pieces, half canvassed, quality Italian natural fabrics .... it's not a repro but quite close (modern fabrics). Made in Italy (by Italians I hasten to add). Here's an overlook of stuff I do http://claudioderossi.tumblr.com

    Piccolit style suit is the one currently for sale (20's styled) on the website
    http://www.dnagroove.it pjimage-20.jpg

    Another shop to look at is based in London and is www.thomasfarthing.co.uk although I have never tried them and personally think they are a bit hit and miss, but worth a try.

    Lastly, small independent designer does some mid century inspired stuff trousers and shirts and soon knitwear www.scottfrasercollection.com MAde in London

    Hope this helps
     
  12. Dirk Wainscotting

    Dirk Wainscotting A-List Customer

    Messages:
    355
    Location:
    Irgendwo
    'Off-the-rack' and 'couturier' together is surely an oxymoron. I don't want to do any makers down, but this stuff, if the photos are anything to go by, are not far from what you can buy in any high street shops. I looks nothing like tailoring and a lot like urban streetwear, maybe based on some workwear.
    Someone really needs to tell the people who dress models for photo-shoots that rolling up their trousers and letting them sag on the hips doesn't make the coats look good.
     
    Benproof likes this.
  13. Dirk Wainscotting

    Dirk Wainscotting A-List Customer

    Messages:
    355
    Location:
    Irgendwo
    Very nice work Claudio. I like that grey jacket with the squared-off foreparts. Where do you get your labels done?
     
  14. Claudio

    Claudio Vendor

    Messages:
    377
    Location:
    Italian living in Spain
    Thanks Dirk.

    To which grey jacket are you refering to? The one in picture (although not clearly visible) is a brown Prince of Wales and not sure what are the squared-off foreparts? Or maybe you are looking at the blog or website? Just curious as to what captivates different people.

    The clothes are made in North East Italy (Veneto region) where I'm originally from :)
     
  15. Benproof

    Benproof A-List Customer

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    England
    Thanks for your thoughts Dirk. That makes a lot of sense - a lot of specialist niche labels like 1st Pat RN probably are aiming for the high street crowd who want a little more than the high street clone wear, rather than aiming for the regular guy who gets everything cut at Saville Row regardless of its style, modern or vintage. I find the dressing of modern mannequins rather ropey but that's the style been done over emphasising only the ubiquitous street style of rolled ankle crop trousers and big belt - with no consideration for what happens between top and bottom ends :D
     
  16. Benproof

    Benproof A-List Customer

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    England
    Thanks for showing - some interesting window pane fabrics which look beautifully dated to the era! The two tone look of jacket and trousers makes me think of Jeremy Corbyn in Westminster though. Trousers from the 1920's are a real challenge - the Scottfraser ones aren't quite up there:

    http://scottfrasercollection.com/shop/ecru-linen-wide-leg-trousers/

    20 inch hems...?!! I mean...is that necessary?! Otherwise the detailing from the pleats falling under the belt hooks and tab button retainer are splendid touches.

    Thomas Farthing shop on Museum Street (just adjacent to the British Museum for those who are visiting London) is a pleasant shop with a vintage themes front. They are more 'off the rack' retailers offering quite a wide selection of tweeds and suits although trying to find something which drapes well can be quite a challenge. Not everything in the shop is English made so do check. Great for a visit in any case.
     
  17. Claudio

    Claudio Vendor

    Messages:
    377
    Location:
    Italian living in Spain
    Thanks for feedback Ben.
    You'll see that the 20" Scottfraser is a circunference, thus a 10" bottom leg one way is quite standard for a baggier fit. My 'Rocco' are about 11" (so 22" on the circunference).
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.