that quarter inch machine stitch

[Benny Holiday]

Lapel and pocket 'line'.

Gentlemen,

Whilst I've perused this font of information called the Fedora Lounge carefully, I've not found a previous reference to this topic, so please excuse me if it's been mentioned before.

What precisely is the line along the edge of the lapels and pockets as shown in this illustration? I figure it was stitching, but it appears to be more than that, resembling almost a Cavanagh edge for suit cloth! How was it achieved? Does anyone own a vintage jacket with this feature?

Thanks for any information.

 

[Tomasso]

The effect created by the stitching is called a swelled edge.

 

[Benny Holiday]

Thanks Tomasso

My tailor stitched around the lapels of one of my jackets in a similar way, as per a picture from a 1936 menswear catalogue I gave him, but it didn't have the same distinction to the line.

 

[Tomasso]

Swelled edges are more often found on country clothing made of heavier fabrics like tweed, corduroy, flannel and such. It serves the function of binding the multiple layers of material together at the edge to prevent the lapel from rippling and puckering. That said, you'll see it used stylistically on lighter materials as well. It's not uncommon to navy blazers, though that may be more an American thing.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

You'll note the caption says "stitched edges". Remember 70s suits? With the big old polyester topstitched lapels? This is exactly what they were attempting to emulate. And look at the wonderful colour combination!

bk

 

[Matt Deckard]

You see it on the edge of the lapel and the collar? Sometimes it's around the patch pockets, and even on the lip of that welt pocket you stuff your handkerchief into.

I've always liked it better than that hand stitched edge that tends to be all over the place and makes the lapel pucker? When did that come into fashion anyhow? a trademark of hand workmanship when the machine could obviously do a straight line better? well i guess some get their kicks in other ways.

Anyway, the quarter inch machine stitch always gives that air of scholar to an outfit, looks great on tweeds and certain business suits.

What do you think?

 

[Matt Deckard]

I didn't notice someone had already started a thread so I merged the two.

 

[Alan Eardley]

You can't really finish a heavy fabric (e.g. tweed) without creating a 'swelled edge', otherwise the lapel etc. won't lie flat. it is also featured on clothing that is stiffly canvassed (internally reinforced).

Like this...

Alan

 

[JimInSoCalif]

I have my tweed suits and sport jackets made with that quarter inch stitching. My most recent suit is a three piece gray flannel and I debated whether to include that feature. At the last minute I decided 'yes' and I am glad that I did.

Cheers, Jim.

 

[Feraud]

And look at the wonderful colour combination!

bk

Not to go off topic but I love looking at these old scans.
The color combinations are beautiful!

 

[Benny Holiday]

You'll note the caption says "stitched edges". Remember 70s suits? With the big old polyester topstitched lapels? This is exactly what they were attempting to emulate. And look at the wonderful colour combination!

bk

I've noticed that with the 70s suits too, Baron. I find those fashion plates to be of even more value as someone looking to emulate the style because they're in colour. They can give one great ideas of what colours go together and inspiration for colour combinations.

Matt, great minds think alike!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Benny,

I just got a "new" (1929) Burton's catalogue which will give the British take on these matters (colour etc). This is the reason i began the Apparel Arts project, which proceeds slowly.

And yes, Alan E. yet another British catalogue referring to "knickers".

bk

 

[Benny Holiday]

Benny,

I just got a "new" (1929) Burton's catalogue which will give the British take on these matters (colour etc). This is the reason i began the Apparel Arts project, which proceeds slowly.
bk

All good things take time as they say . . . And these days, time is hard to come by. I'm currently trying to get a new scanner so I can post new pics from my 1936 National bellas Hess menswear catalogue. My computer is so antiquated! (If such a word can be used to refer to a computer).

I look forward to seeing the Burton's pics when you have time to scan them. The British style interests me greatly.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The British style interests me greatly.

And I, too. That sports coat i got from Perth last year is so clearly British, but like nothing anyone here has seen before. And another recent Burton's thing (thanks P!) just muddies the waters further.

A murky field.

Focusing on the one pic you posted. I love love love the green jacket. you don't see green very much in menswear outside of ties. I have one light green/kinda sharkskin DB jacket here that's from the 50s. PM me your jacket measurements (chest, shoulders, length) and if it's your size i'll bring it over to Perth at the end of the month and mail it to you.

bk

 

[Jovan]

I just wanted to step in and say, my recent thrift store find coat has this detail. I love it. Some of Mad Men's suits do as well. And look at that lapel shape!

 

[Matt Deckard]

Pretty cool... not my style but I can see it on a few friends. It's gotta be vintage.

 

[Benny Holiday]

And I, too. That sports coat i got from Perth last year is so clearly British, but like nothing anyone here has seen before. And another recent Burton's thing (thanks P!) just muddies the waters further.

A murky field.

Focusing on the one pic you posted. I love love love the green jacket. you don't see green very much in menswear outside of ties. I have one light green/kinda sharkskin DB jacket here that's from the 50s. PM me your jacket measurements (chest, shoulders, length) and if it's your size i'll bring it over to Perth at the end of the month and mail it to you.

bk

That is a grand colour indeed. I'll send a PM through Baron, thanks!

 

[MrBern]

And look at that lapel shape!

Actually Jovan, I have a 'Tailorcraft' jacket w/ the same lapel.
Heres a shot of it today w. a banana repub angora blend sweater vest.

 

[iammatt]

I have all of my sportcoats and some casual suits made with a swelled edge, but the inner stitch is done by hand rather than machine. The look is similar, but the stitching is less noticeable.

Any thoughts as to when this came about and its relation to the 1/4 in. machine stitch. Mine are also about a quarter inch, but perhaps slightly more.

 

[Jovan]

If you like a lot of handwork, it's a plus. I do wish it could be more visible, as that distinguishes it from a pick stitch more.

Here's some shots of my sport coat...