The Bowler or Derby Hat

Discussion in 'Hats' started by carter, Oct 3, 2008.

  1. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    759
    Location:
    Germany
    To put it mildly:
    probably the little cousin in shape and age
    of Steve's fantastic 1900 Habig Bowler...
    J. Hückel's Söhne Melone/Bowler/Derby
    This stiff felt is really rather semi-stiff:
    Completely dented by shipping :eek:,
    but easily recovered thanks to this fact.
    It comes with a wind cord & strongly bent up side brim.
    The sweat has no print and is quite simple (but still soft);
    the black lining with the gold logo is what drew me to it.
    As far as the age is concerned, I'm a little unsure:
    The shape reminds me a lot of Steve's Habig;
    I didn't find this JHS label in his list so far...
    Nevertheless, I think: pre WWI - maybe 1900s!?

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  2. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    14,190
    Location:
    Nederland
    Wonderful find, Matt. Congrats.
     
  3. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,493
    Location:
    Denmark
    A wonderful find, Matt. I really love the classic Bowler brim curves.

     
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  4. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    759
    Location:
    Germany
    Thank you, gentlemen, for your compliments!
     
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  5. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    15,905
    Location:
    Maryland
    Matt, Super find! I think you are correct that is from the same time period as my P. & C. Habig Wien "Grand Prix Paris". The paper label has the JHS crest in the upper left corner like one of the labels (it has a separate Cell label) in Garrett's old JSH "Loutre" Soft Felt.
     
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  6. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    15,905
    Location:
    Maryland
    St. Veit (Sankt Veit), 58 cm, Wool Felt, possibly early 1930s. There isn't a company mark but the paper label has a Sheep with a St. Veit Banner. Sankt Veit an der Glan Schafrasse is a small town in the South East corner of Austria and I couldn't find any Felt Hat production in the town. My guess is this is the source of the Wool used for the Felt. The Stiff Felt Hat was sold by a shop (Ludovikus Hagens Wwe) in a small town (Lustenau, Vorarlberg) in the upper North West corner of Austria. The Wool Felt has a nice finish and is in very good condition. The Stiff Felt has great looking Silver Gray Liner with a sharp looking Bow design.

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    Ludovikus Hagens Wwe (Wwe = Widow of)

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    Handwriting on the Sweatband which I will have to take a closer look at.

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    Sheep With St. Veit (Sankt Veit an der Glan Schafrasse) Banner

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    Ludovikus Hagens Wwe (Lustenau, Vorarlberg) was located in the front of this house. Photo from 1908.

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    Ludwig "Ludovikus" Hagen passed away in 1929.

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    Ludwig "Ludovikus" Hagen wife 1. Sophie (Wwe, Widow) was owner of the shop when the Stiff Felt was sold.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2021
  7. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,684
    Location:
    Central Texas
    Another beauty for your collection.

     
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  8. JJ Katz

    JJ Katz New in Town

    Messages:
    26
    Does any contemporary brand make a nice brown derby/bowler with a curved brim?
     
  9. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    15,905
    Location:
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    Randy, Thanks! Another one. :)
     
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  10. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,684
    Location:
    Central Texas
    Mike at Northwest Hats makes an excellent modern derby with a brim curl that very nearly approximates the old style D'Orsay curl. Mike can make a custom derby using most any of the modern felt colors available. Here is my Granite gray. 20200817_155036.jpg 20200817_155119.jpg 20200817_154802.jpg

     
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  11. JJ Katz

    JJ Katz New in Town

    Messages:
    26
    Thanks for that.
     
  12. Redfokker

    Redfokker

    Messages:
    12,365
    Location:
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    I'm thinking of having Mike do me a navy derby with a pronounced curl. I need a period 1870s stiff felt for historical society events.
     
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  13. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,684
    Location:
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    Definitely give him a call. He has recently acquired a "better" block (I assume that means more period correct...in size 1/8). I should have a sample to show off in a few weeks.

     
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  14. Redfokker

    Redfokker

    Messages:
    12,365
    Location:
    Albany Oregon
    I am lucky to be just down the road about 45 minutes from Eugene. I try to get in on a regular basis. Sometimes I order a hat, and others, just visit. I do get to see everyone's hats from time to time. I fondle as many as I can.
     
  15. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    14,190
    Location:
    Nederland
    Recent find.
    Crosby and Company bowler. Size 7 1/2 (60) with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at about 12,5cm, which is slightly lower than usual. Pre-war, made for Kaufman. Great hand to the felt. A few loose stitches, but in great shape.

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  16. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,493
    Location:
    Denmark
    Nice find, Stefan. I don't think I've seen that maker before. American I presume.
     
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  17. Blare

    Blare I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,024
    Beautiful bowler Stefan
     
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  18. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    14,190
    Location:
    Nederland
    Steve, Joe, thank you. It is indeed American. A colleague of mine is moving and needed to get rid of some stuff. This one came up. Quite a surprise, but why not?
     
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