The Fedora Lounge Guide to Esquire Men's Fashion, 1933-1948, By Flanderian

Discussion in 'The Fedora Lounge Guides' started by Flanderian, Aug 20, 2020.

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  1. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    Flanders, NJ, USA
    We are grateful to member Flanderian for taking the time to scan and share his collection of Esquire illustrations. Over the years, Fedora Lounge members have turned to these images again and again for inspiration, education and dating of their own collections.
    Here is the full collection of posts in one location and without distracting comment.

    -Scotrace




    What follows is my collection of Esquire magazine’s sartorial illustrations from what is often termed, their golden age. Esquire was an outgrowth of the earlier publication, Apparel Arts. Apparel Arts was begun in December 1931 as a Christmas edition. It was published by the Menswear Service Corporation, among whose publishers were William Hobart Weintraub, David A. Smart and Arnold Gingrich. It was a trade publication intended for the menswear industry, and distribution was limited to wholesale buyers and retailers. It was published periodically during the year with varied special editions sometimes bringing the total to eight.

    It was a lavish publication for a magazine and bound between cardboard covers. In addition to the fine, commissioned sartorial illustrations intended to illustrate trends, it contained industry advertising, which was also sometimes lush, articles on how to dress and merchandising, and even tipped-in cloth samples for some of the clothing illustrated.

    The publication was often used as a point-of-sale trade stimulator by retail salesman, and proved so popular among retail customers that many copies of AA tended to disappear from the retailers. Learning of this, AA’s publishers began Esquire as a sister sartorial and general interest magazine intended for the public. The first issue was an autumn 1933 issue (I believe published in September ’33.) with Arnold Gingrich as its managing editor. Beginning with the January 1934 issue it became a monthly publication. In addition to featuring many of the sartorial illustrations from AA it also contained both fiction and non-fiction articles from many of the top writers of the day. Included among the authors in the first issue were Ernest Hemmingway, Ring Lardner Jr., John Dos Passos, Dashiell Hammett, Ersklne Caldwell and Gene Tunney.

    As well as I’ve been able to determine, all of the sartorial illustrations (Fashion plates.) that appeared in Esquire during this era also appeared in Apparel Arts. But not all such illustrations from Apparel Arts made it to Esquire.

    Both publications used freelance commercial illustrators who they commissioned to illustrate fashion plates on an ad hoc basis. Some were trained professionally, while others were largely self-taught. The illustrators also produced work that appeared elsewhere, notably for adverting, some of which found its way into the same magazine issues for which that illustrator provided fashion plates.

    Among the illustrators who did sartorial illustrations for Esquire during that period were Laurence Fellows, Robert Goodman, Leslie Saalburg, Charles Fox, Louis Hurd, Frederick Stewart Heidgerd, Charles Frederick Peters, Ruth Sigrid Grafstrom and others. Many are particularly fond of Fellows’ work, and I share their enthusiasm. Robert Goodman was the only illustrator I know to have become an Esquire staff member, becoming Esquire’s Art Director in 1945. And Ruth Grafstrom was the only female illustrator from that era of which I’m aware.

    What follows what is a essentially complete collection of Esquire’s sartorial fashion plates from their first issue, through to those July 1947. I’ve also included selected sartorial articles and advertising illustrations that I considered particularly relevant and meritorious. I know many/most/all (?) of the illustrations have appeared on-line here and elsewhere, or in print, but this is the entire group in one place, in digital form with decent resolution. They continue to inspire and instruct me, though I’ve seen them all now many times. I’m hoping that other members may enjoy them too.

    I intend to post 5 or 6 of these illustrations daily in chronological order. I love discussing them, and am always learning more about them, and would like to do so with any members who may wish too.

    The following illustrations are from the autumn 1933 issue of Esquire, their first -

    Esq093301.jpg

    Esq093302.jpg

    Esq093303.jpg Esq093304.jpg Esq093305.jpg Esq093306.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 21, 2020
  2. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    The following illustrations continue the autumn 1933 issue -


    Esq093308.jpg Esq093309.jpg Esq093310.jpg Esq093311.jpg Esq093312.jpg Esq093313a.jpg Esq093313b.jpg Esq093314.jpg

    This concludes the Autumn 1933 issue.
     
  3. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    The second issue of Esquire published was the January 1934 issue. These are the first 5 illustrations from that issue.


    Esq013401.jpg Esq013402.jpg
    Esq013403.jpg
    Esq013404.jpg
    Esq013405.jpg
     
  4. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    And this is the final 6 from that same issue.


    Esq013406.jpg Esq013407.jpg Esq013408.jpg Esq013409.jpg Esq013410.jpg Esq013411.jpg
     
  5. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    Location:
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    These are the illustrations from Esquire February 1934.


    Esq023401 (2).jpg Esq023402 (2).jpg Esq023403 (2).jpg Esq023404 (2).jpg Esq023405 (2).jpg Esq023406 (2).jpg
     
  6. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    Location:
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    And the rest of February 1934.

    Esq023407 (2).jpg Esq023408 (2).jpg Esq023409 (2).jpg Esq023410.jpg
     
  7. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    These are the illustrations from the March 1934 issue of Esquire.


    Esq033404.jpg Esq033405.jpg Esq033406.jpg Esq033407.jpg Esq033408.jpg Esq033409.jpg Esq033410.jpg
     
  8. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    And these are the rest of the March 1934 illustrations.


    Esq033402.jpg Esq033403.jpg Esq033401.jpg Esq033412a.jpg Esq033412b.jpg Esq033411.jpg
     
  9. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    Location:
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    These are the illustrations from the April 1934 issue of Esquire.


    Esq043403.jpg Esq043404.jpg Esq043405.jpg Esq043406.jpg Esq043407.jpg Esq043408.jpg
     
  10. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    Location:
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    Looking over this post, I realized that the number of illustrations looked fewer than I recalled. And, yes, I had omitted some.Though of more specialized interest, and a couple perhaps not the best illustrations, here are the balance along with a couple illustrations of selected ad art.


    Esq043409.jpg Esq043410.jpg Esq043411.jpg Esq043412.jpg Esq043413.jpg
     
  11. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

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    Location:
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    These are the illustrations from Esquire's May 1934 issue.

    Esq053404.jpg Esq053405.jpg Esq053406.jpg Esq053407.jpg Esq053408.jpg Esq053403.jpg Esq053409.jpg Esq053402.jpg
     
  12. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    And the balance of the May 1934 issue.


    Esq053410a.jpg Esq053410b.jpg Esq053411.jpg Esq053401.jpg


    And an ad photo as the models are turned out so well in mode of the era.
    Esq053415.jpg .
     
  13. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
    761
    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    These are the illustrations from Esquire, June 1934.


    Esq063402.jpg Esq063403.jpg Esq063404.jpg Esq063405.jpg Esq063406.jpg Esq063407.jpg Esq063408.jpg Esq063409.jpg Esq063410.jpg Esq063401.jpg
     
  14. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
    761
    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    These are Esquire's illustrations for July 1934.


    Esq073402.jpg Esq073403.jpg Esq073404.jpg Esq073405.jpg Esq073406.jpg Esq073407.jpg Esq073408.jpg
     
  15. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
    761
    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    And this is the balance of illustrations from Esquire, July 1934.


    Esq073409.jpg Esq073410a.jpg Esq073410b.jpg Esq073411.jpg Esq073401.jpg
     
  16. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    These are the illustrations from the August 1934 issue of Esquire.


    Esq083402.jpg Esq083403.jpg Esq083404.jpg Esq083405.jpg Esq083406.jpg Esq083407.jpg Esq083408.jpg Esq083409.jpg Esq083410.jpg

    I consider this ad art from illustrator Leslie Saalburg among his best.


    Esq083401.jpg
     
  17. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    These are the illustrations from Esquire September 1934.


    Esq093402.jpg Esq093403.jpg Esq093404.jpg Esq093405.jpg Esq093406.jpg Esq093407a.jpg Esq093407b.jpg Esq093408.jpg Esq093409.jpg
     
  18. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
    761
    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    This is the balance of September 1934 illustrations.


    Esq093410a.jpg Esq093410b.jpg Esq093401.jpg

    Illustration from Fell Sharp.


    Esq093401b.jpg
     
  19. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
    761
    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    These are the Esquire illustrations from October 1934.


    Esq103603.jpg Esq103604.jpg Esq103605.jpg Esq103406a.jpg Esq103406b.jpg Esq103407.jpg Esq103408.jpg Esq103409.jpg
     
  20. Flanderian

    Flanderian Practically Family

    Messages:
    761
    Location:
    Flanders, NJ, USA
    This is the balance of illustrations from Esquire October 1934.


    Esq103410.jpg Esq103411a.jpg Esq103411b.jpg Esq103412.jpg Esq103401.jpg
     
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