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Thurston Italian Vicenza Horsehide Full Grain Veg.-Tanned Horsehide for Aero Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Superfluous, May 20, 2014.

  1. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I just received a sample of Insurrection's new Italian, full grain, veg tanned horsehide for Aero jackets. It is spectacular! Fantastic grain and incredibly pliable.

    A couple of weeks ago, I received samples from Aero of the Horween front quarter Chromexcel, front quarter tumbled Chromexcel and Jerky horsehides, and a "soft black steerhide." The new Italian HH is considerably more pliable than the standard Chromexcel, more pliable than the tumbled, and some where in between the Jerky and the "soft" steerhide (closer to the Jerky -- the steerhide is entirely different). Moreover, the new Italian HH has much more grain than the standard Chromexcel, but much less than the steerhide -- slightly more grain than the Jerky, although this may depend on particular samples (and I am comparing black Jerky to Russet Italian).

    This new Italian HH is a wonderful addition to Insurrection's/Aero's leather offerings and, IMHO, fills an important need for certain jacket consumers. I had previously balked at ordering an Aero jacket because the standard Chromexcel was too rigid for my personal preference and I had read mixed reviews/comments regarding the Jerky. This new Italian HH is exactly what I was looking for. Thus, I ordered a seal brown Plainsman. Many thanks to Carrie for her patience and assistance.
     
    HatlyMan and SJC like this.
  2. Sounds great Super.
    HD
     
  3. technovox

    technovox Practically Family

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    Yes, I've been interested in the new Italian Horsehide as well, for the same reasons. While my jackets in the Horween FQHH are beautiful, sometimes they just seem a bit too stiff, heavy, and impractical for day to day wear in this climate. I just took delivery of a custom Johnson Leathers jacket in Horweeen's Vermont horsehide. It's supple, a 2 oz midweight, a combo veg tan with lots of character, and full grain as well.
    If the Italian Horsehide is anywhere near as beautiful as the Vermont I'll definitely be considering a new Aero. Please post the pics when your new Plainsman arrives!
     
    SJC likes this.
  4. Carrie @ Thurston Bros.

    Carrie @ Thurston Bros. Sponsoring Affiliate

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    Hides are Full Grain and vegetable-tanned, following the traditional Tuscan method of slow tanning (pit tanning), using only natural vegetable extract. The result of this tanning process is an extremely natural and high quality product!

    Thickness: 1,1 – 1,2 mm

    We have access to Horween's Vermont Espresso, but please check the Italian Horsehide out first...
     
  5. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 One Too Many

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    I would like to see the new Johnson jacket. Hope you will post some pics. I just sold a Johnson and it was nice. I have a Bill Kelso in their Italian Victory HH and it is something special. I notice too that ELC uses Italian HH. It is different.
     
  6. Edward

    Edward Bartender

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    It's funny how trends come and go, even in these parts: back when I first floated around here in 2007, it was all about the FQHH and the one-piece back. Seriously, have a look at some of those old threads and you'll find plenty of opinions that suggest anything else is simply flat out inferior. Of course things have changed in the last year or two, in large part due to the efforts of several high end makers, not least Aero themselves, who imo have had something of a creative renaissance these past eighteen months or so. The rise in variety of leather types on the market instead of everyone chasing the one thing is definitely a big plus. As well as catering to a range of tastes, those of us with the bug for collecting a bunch of jackets are well served by having awider range of options. Especially great for reproductions of historical civilian designs, as many of these won't quite work in heavier leathers and were always produced in lighter options like goat et cetera. Some designs I prefer in the FQHH, even if not strictly historically accurate, but others definitely benefit from a slightly softer hide, IMO. The Highwayman, imo, is one which is deifnitely much closer the look of the original 50s jackets and all the better for being in a softer leather than FQHH.

    I suppose in some ways this represents a maturing of the market, where different options are seen as equally good in different ways, as distinct from the binary of "cheap, mall lamb jackets bad, heavy-as-possible custom jackets good". Course, I wouldn't expect to see LW changing their tack and making jackets from anything so "unmanly" any time soon. ;)

    I'm planning a couple of new jackets this year, myself - one of those will be goat, but while FQHH is still the front runner for the other, I'm definitely maintaining an open mind until I see the other options.
     
  7. morrison2951

    morrison2951 A-List Customer

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    I'm still very much a fan of FQHH and one piece backs.
     
    College400 likes this.
  8. ProteinNerd

    ProteinNerd My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Oh, I'm currently tossing up between a Plainsman in a seal HH (and this new leather sounds perfect) or a Surrogates jacket from BK. Can you PLEASE post fit pics when you get it?
     
  9. Monitor

    Monitor I'll Lock Up

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    Edward; Just a few of days ago, I have been thinking exactly the same thing. Though my lurking extends a few years back, I have been a member of this wonderful forum for a few short amount of time but even then, when I joined this community, it was all about the FQHH and the one-piece back. I remember reading threads upon threads on how Belstaff, Barbour, even Schott are much inferior to the turbo-thick hides Aero or LW is producing their garments from and how oz's is the only measure of jacket's true worth. Tides have definitely began to change as of late which, I agree, is good.

    Still, I ride, I love to wear asymmetrical style jackets and I'm thinking about what to wear with what isn't something I am too fond of, so I'm gonna stick with heavy HH and once piece backs. Split back does make the jacket look cheaper. To me, at least. Though I have began thinking about some other colour than black... :)
     
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  10. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    That was EXACTLY my choice (after Eastman screwed me, but thats another story). Unfortunately, while the BK Californian is a gorgeous jacket, the proportions are not well suited for my body. Staying true to the original Surrogates jacket, BK made the shoulders VERY broad (20 inches in a 42 jacket) -- too broad for me. Hence, I went with the Plainsman.
     
  11. Sir Jacket

    Sir Jacket Practically Family

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    Hm, I can see why Aero is extending its leather range. Its FQHH is really its only standout hide (and it is beautiful). The leather it uses on its A-2s, for example, hasn't the same character at all as Eastman A-2s or, I gather, LW's. So it makes sense that Aero is venturing out into hides, eg those from Italy, that can compete in character with the FQHH.
     
  12. ProteinNerd

    ProteinNerd My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Did you ask Aero for tweaks to the back to make it more in line with the original Californian sportswear model? I've asked Holly but she hasn't got back to me with an answer yet.
     
  13. zhz

    zhz Practically Family

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    I don't think Aero would do any change in their pattern, as last time I emailed them, Holly said they can only change the length of jacket and sleeve. And they normally reply you within 48 hours.

     
  14. zhz

    zhz Practically Family

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    Plainsman and Surrogates are on my list as well, I don't think the broad shoulder is a problem, I think BK can customize the jacket to fit your need.

     
  15. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Not sure what you mean -- if you are referring to the pleats, I did not ask because I do not like the pleats.
     
  16. ProteinNerd

    ProteinNerd My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    No, more like the bi swing/action back & yoke of the Surrogates while the plainsman has neither, just the half belt.
     
  17. ericsanpablo31

    ericsanpablo31 Familiar Face

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    Like the August's back? I think sometimes Aero is willing to mix fronts and backs of similar design.... there are a few examples on the sale page of them doing that too.
     
  18. morrison2951

    morrison2951 A-List Customer

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    Italian leather is at or near the top in quality. Good move by Aero.
     
  19. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

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    It is my understanding that the Italian Horsehide has been sourced by Insurrection and then sent by insurrection to Aero to be used to make jackets specifically for Insurrection's customers. Hence, if you want the Italian HH, you must place your order directly with insurrection.
     
  20. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Your understanding is correct.
     

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