TWEEDFEST 2018 PART III! Sz. 38-48: Vintage, Brookstweed", Harris Tweed, Bespoke, Cashmere, Zegna, +

TWEEDFEST 2018 PART III​

41) CLASSIC 3/2 sack in dark brown herringbone tweed from Van Boven of Ann Arbor, Mich.!

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c. 44, 46. Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 24 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30

Founded in 1921, Van Boven is one of the few traditional clothiers that is still going strong--and they still purvey classic Ivy items such as this lovely 3/2 sack in dark brown herringbone tweed!

Although this presents as a dark brown herringbone tweed closer inspection reveals that this is in fact a wonderful medley of dark chestnut brown, lichen greens, and earthy black. Cut as a 3/2 sack with a high lapel roll this lovely jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a single center vent. It has three button cuffs, and was Union Made in the USA.

Apart from a single thread slip on the back near the shoulder this is in excellent condition, and so is a bargain at just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA!

 

42) Fully Custom Tailored, Hand-made Jacket
From Vittorio Castagna, Philadelphia!

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c. 38 Measurements:

Chest: 19 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2 1/2)
Waist at top button: 18 1/2
Waist at bottom button: 20 1/4
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/2

This is absolutely lovely--and with its combination of burnt orange, blacks, and creams with a subtle pumpkin overcheck this has the perfect colourway for Hallowe'en!

Made by the fully-custom Italian tailor Vittorio Castagna of 17th Street, Philadelphia, this is likely made from a mid-heavyweight blend of silk and wool. It is cut as a contemporary two-button jacket It features slanted hacking pockets on the front, a double vent, and three button cuffs. It is fully canvassed and fully lined.

This jacket is fully hand-made, with everything from the pattern cutting to the construction being done by hand in the tailoring rooms of 17th Street, Philadelphia. As such, it is cut to exaggerate the chest of the wearer and provide a very Italian silhouette--so the waist is deliberately tapered inwards with the lower part of the jacket being slightly flared.

Apart from some very minor age foxing to the lining this is in absolutely excellent condition!

Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA--an absolute steal for a fully hand-made jacket!

 

43) BEAUTIFUL Vintage Brooks Brothers "Brookstweed" in Pure Scottish Shetland Wool.

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Tagged 46R. Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 31 1/4

This is absolutely lovely! Likely dating from the 1980s--the era of The Preppy Handbook and Ralph Lauren's popularization of Ivy Style--this wonderful "Brookstweed" is cut from pure Scottish Shetland tweed, making it warm and durable, with a lovely hand and drape.

The patterning and colourway do full justice to the cloth, being a wonderful autumnal plaid in a medley of soft moss green, slates, brackens, and chestnuts. The jacket is cut as a contemporary two-button jacket with subtle darting; it is half-canvassed, fully lined, and has three button cuffs. It has a single center vent, and was Union Made in the USA.

It could use a dry clean to freshen it up, and so it is in Very Good/Excellent condition. Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

44) BEAUTIFUL 1960s Vintage Cashmere Jacket in Houndstooth, from Arnold Constable.

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Tagged 39S. Measurements:

Chest: 20
Sleeve: 21 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 27 1/2

Founded in 1825, Arnold Constable was THE upscale Department store in Manhattan, and was widely acknowledged as such--dubbed the "Palace of Trade" it served New York's rich and elite, including Grover Cleveland, Andrew Carnegie, Thomas Edison, J.P. Morgan, John D. Rockefeller and Cornelius Vanderbilt.

This jacket shows just why Constable's was so revered. Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly cashmere--and the thick, luxurious cashmere of the 1960s, not the thin mall stuff that's so prevalent today.

The jacket is a very mod 1960s black and white houndstooth, with classically vintage narrow lapels and--with a nod to the English domination of the Swinging Sixties--a twin vent. The pockets, too, and slightly sloped hacking pockets--the original owner of this jacket no doubt wore it through Carnaby Street, London--or at least wished he did!

The jacket is fully canvassed and half-lined. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA, and has all of its original buttons.

It does have two minor issues--a tiny fray contained by the stitching on the top of one lapel, as shown, and two TINY spots on the lapel--these simply couldn't be seen by my camera--and likely won't be seen by you either!--but they are there if you're looking closely fro them and know where they are! As such, this is in Very Good/Excellent condition, and is just $45, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA--an absolute steal for a 1960s cashmere jacket from Constable's!

 

45) BEAUTIFUL "Broken Bone" Herringbone Tweed Jacket with Three Patch Pockets!

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c. 38, 40. Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 31

This is an absolutely lovely jacket! Cut from a beautiful dark brown "broken bone" herringbone tweed with subtle vertical stripes of forest green, sky blue, and chestnut. The jacket is a contemporary two-button model with subtle darts. It has the ever-desirable and increasingly rare THREE PATCH POCKETS on the front, with lapped seam surrounds. It is half-canvassed, fully lined, and has four button cuffs. It has a single center vent.

It was Union Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition!

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

46) Zegna Soft jacket in wool and silk. Made in Switzerland! c.44L.

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Tagged (EU) 54L; ((US) 44L. Measurements:

Chest: 22 5/8
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder:; 19 3/4
Length: 32 1/2

Cut from a cloth that's a lovely blend of silk and wool, this beautiful soft jacket by Zegna Soft is a subdued classic light dove grey, with fleckings of cream and a subtle black Glen Plaid overcheck.

Made in Switzerland, this has a Continental three button front and jetted pockets. It is unvented, in Flusser-approved style, and features three button cuffs. It appears to be half-canvassed and is fully lined. It is in excellent condition.

Asking just $39, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

47) GRAIL! Langrock 3/2 Tweed Sack in Wonderful Condition!

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c. 40, 42. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 32

If you're reading this, you almost certainly know just how iconic Langrock of Princeton was--and just how important it was in the development and propagation of Ivy Style.

I'm thus delighted to offer this absolutely beautiful 3/2 sack jacket in tweed from Langrock--especially as it is in absolutely wonderful condition!

Cut from a beautiful dark brown, slate grey, and peat black basketweave tweed that is perfect for both Fall and Winter, this gorgeous jacket has a beautifully liquid lapel roll. It features two flapped patch pockets--with lapped surrounding seams--and lapped seams along the back and the sleeves. It has a single center hook vent. It is half-lined, and fully-canvassed. The buttons are all original, all in perfect condition, and all leather-covered "football" buttons with metal shanks.

It is in absolutely excellent condition!

And you can have this wonderful piece of wearable Ivy history for just $59, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

48) Twill Lambswool Tweed jacket by Alfred Dean traditional clothes, for Boyd's of Philadelphia.

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Tagged 48L. c. 46. Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/4
Shoulder: 20 1/4
Length: 32 1/4

Made for Boyd's of Philadelphia, one of the few remaining clothing stores that has survived, largely by dint of their superb personal service, this is a lovely example of their current wares--traditional, but with a Continental twist.

Cut from a lovely soft lambswool twill tweed with a subtle pattern of alternating bands of barleycorn weave this features dark red vertical striping and a very subtl;e overcheck in single-thread berry red. This cloth was woven in the British Isles.

The jacket is a contemporary two button model with darting and jetted pockets. It is unvented, half-canvassed, and fully lined. It has metal-shanked buttons, and pick stitching throughout the lining.

It is in excellent condition except that it is missing a single button on the left-hand cuff; this could be easily remedied by converting it quickly to a jacket with two button cuffs!

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

49) Classic Harris Tweed Jacket!

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Made in the USA.

c.40, 42. Measurements:

Chest: 21 3/8
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/4

This is a lovely classic light brown basketweave Harris Tweed jacket! Cut as a contemporary two-button model with darting, this is half-lined and has a single center vent. It features dark chestnut leather-covered metal-shanked football buttons with some minor patina. It has some very minor pin holes in the lining, as well as a couple of minor lining marks, and so is in Very Good condition.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

 

50) BEAUTIFUL Southwick 3/2 tweed sack.

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c.44. Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2 1/8)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 32

This is absolutely wonderful! Cut from a lovely subtle dark brown barleycorn tweed with a wonderfully subtle windowpane overcheck in turquoise, bracken, and reddish chestnut, this is a classic 3/2 sack jacket by Southwick.

It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a single center vent. It features horn buttons and has lovely natural shoulders.

It was, of course, made in the USA.

It has two small weave faults on the lapel, as shown, and so is a bargain at just $25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

51) Beautiful Southwick houndstooth jacket.



Size: C. 42, 44R

Made for Roots!

This is wonderful! Made by Southwick, one of the great traditional American clothiers, for Roots, one of the great (and long gone) tradly clothiers of upscale New Jersey.

This beautiful jacket is cut from a classic grey and cream houndstooth tweed with accents of forest green, with a complementary dark red windowpane overcheck. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It's a contemporary two button front closure jacket, with subtle darting and a single centre vent. It has four button cuffs; all the buttons are horn. It was, of course, Made in the USA, and it's in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2





52) WONDERFUL and RARE!
Solid Mustard Harris Tweed Jacket. Made in England for Archie Brown Ltd., of Bermuda.
Size: c. 38.


Archie Brown, with Trimingham's, Smith's, and The English Sports Shop, was a Bermudian institution until its closure, being famous both for its offerings of upscale British clothing and also for the bagpiper who played in the store every day at noon.

(Please note: The colour of this jacket is much richer than my pictures can capture; it's a lovely traditional English mustard!)

This marvellous jacket shows just why Brown's was so famous. Likely dating from the early 1960s this beauty was Made in England. It has the traditional British three button front and the high lapels, harking back to its hacking jacket heritage. The Harris Tweed that it is cut from is the traditional heavyweight Harris with the rather rough and slightly hairy hand--just what you'd want in a tweed of this calibre! It is also an extremely rare solid colour tweed--the colour of English mustard! It is fully canvassed and fully lined. It is unvented, and has four button cuffs. All of the original buttons are intact, and all are the traditional leather-covered metal-shanked football buttons. This also carries a full set of lovely vintage labels. This does have one or two small blemishes on the tweed, as shown, as well as two small water marks in the lining, and so this is in Very Good condition.... A very conservative rating given that this is likely from the late 1960s!

This is a rare opportunity to acquire a lovely vintage jacket from a renowned (and long gone) retailer at a very good price indeed! Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 21 (+2 1/4)
SHoulder: 18
Length: 29 1/2

 

53) Vintage "Brooksgate" Tweed Jacket

C. 40, 42L



This is a truly lovely tweed! Made for Brooks Brothers' "Brooksgate" line. This line was aimed at younger men, and intended to be the "gate" to Brooks Brothers' more mature offerings, such as "Makers" and "346"--hence the name, "Brooksgate". Not surprisingly, considerable care was taken to ensure that there was no skimping on cut on construction on this line, and that fabrics that would elicit admiration from young women were deliberately used... After all, if you're using this line to snare the naxt generation of customers, you'd better make sure that they have very positive views of your clothing!

This jacket would be sure to tick all of these boxes. It's a lovely dove grey herringbone tweed with vertical striping in sepia rose pink and Spring sky blue--my pictures really don't do the beauty of this jacket justice at all!

Perfect for the cooler days of early Fall this is a contemporary two button model with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It features chestnut leather-covered metal-shanked football buttons, with three to each cuff. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Tagged 44XL (vintage sizing), this measures:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 27 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 33 1/2






54) CLASSIC Harris Tweed Jacket from DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ



Size c. 38S

This was originally sold by DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ--an extremely trad. clothier, now long gone, that catered to the more rurally inclined trads of neighbouring Princeton. Pennington itself is a beautiful pre-Revolutionary War small town. The cemetery on Main Street is bounded by a wall that British troops exercised their horses over in 1775, and Frederick Forsyth set the start of his novel Avenger at the intersection of W. Delware and Main, as embodying classic small town America.

This jacket embodies the wares that were offered by DiTorio's. Cut from a very sturdy, heavier-weight Harris Tweed of a heft that gave Harris its worldwide reputation and is now increasingly rare, this is a lovely classic grey herringbone that is accented with classic Harris tweed vertical stripes in chestnut brown and sky blue. It appears to be half-canvassed, and it is half-lined. It features a single center vent and three button cuffs. It was Made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition--the top breast pocket is still basted shut!

Asking just $45, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 20
Sleeve: 25 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 1/4
Length: 29 1/2

 

55) Basketweave Harris Tweed from The Princeton Clothing Company



Size c.40, 42 R/L

Like Langrock, The English Shop, Ballot, and Norman Hilton The Princeton Clothing Company specialized in classic Ivy Style clothing--which naturally included Harris Tweed. This lovely jacket is cut from classic basketweave Harris tweed in a mixture of browns, creams, and slate grey. It is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts, and has a single center vent. It is half-canvassed and half-lined and has very natural shoulders. The buttons are classic leather-covered and metal-shanked football buttons. Made in the USA, this is in excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+2 1/4)
SHoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 31 3/4







56) BEAUTIFUL 3/2 sack by Corbin for The English Shop of Princeton



Size c. 44L

Absolutely beautiful, this is the perfect tweed to transition into Fall! Cut as a classic 3/2 sack by Corbiin--a clothier so steeped in the Ivy tradition that it even produced a line of trousers called "Natural Shoulder"!--this has a wonderfully fluid lapel roll. The tweed is a lovely classic glen plaid with a tan base, with lichen main checking and an overcheck in bracken and chestnut. This is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has a single centre vent. It has three button cuffs, and was, of course, Union Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition apart from a small rub by the leading edge of the interior pocket and a small water mark in the lining, as shown--neither of which could be seen when this is worn!

Asking just $45, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 28 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 33

 

57) S. Cohen of Montreal Jacket



Size c. 42, 44.

A lovely and unusual jacket cut from Italian wool with vertical striping in dark blue-grey slate, bracken, and burnished chestnut, this is a contemporary two button model with darting and three button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features plenty of pick stitching in the lining. It has twin vents--appropriately enough, since this is Cohen's "England" model! This was Union Made in Canada, and is in absolutely excellent (likely unworn) condition--the two front pockets are still basted shut.

Asking just $45, or offer.

Tagged 44R, this measures:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+ 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/8

 

My apologies! It should be visible now!