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Two New Jackets Review - Aero Premier HB & Tony Leathers Crosszip

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Happy New Year TFL members!


Just received 2 new jackets last week. One from Aero and one from Tony Leathers.


Aero Premier Half Belt


This is my second jacket from Aero. My first one was the hooch hauler made with Tobacco badalassi which I love and I wanted a black Half Belt from Aero.


Order process:


Again the order process was great. Holly from Aero was super helpful. The size 40 Hooch Hauler I have is a great fit. Has enough room for layering yet doesn’t look sloppy with just a T shirt but I spec’ed the sleeves too short and had to wet stretch it. I wanted to achieve a similar fit with the half belt. I asked Holly what the measurements are for the premium half belt in sz 40, 1930 half belt in size 38 and 40.


The measurements of the premium half on paper seems to be in line with my preferred p2p Maybe a tad smaller than the Hooch Hauler. I was skeptical if it was gonna be a little small given some members have pointed out the premier range has higher armholes and narrower shoulders. Especially at the shoulder which is about 1 inch smaller than the hooch hauler. Holly ensured me that the premium range has a similar fit as the Hooch hauler and should fit me how I want. She was spot on.


I was tempted to try out the aero’s famous CXL steerhide but was scared that the the combination of a slim fit and heavy hide would make the jacket restrictive. Also more experienced members on here that have owned both the badalassi and CXL shared their preferences, mostly saying they prefer the badalassi. So I went for the black badalassi given the leather stretches and has a more springy give from my personal experience of other badalassi jackets.


Design change


I came across a pattern test jacket on the aero sale page and really like the chest pocket design . It is larger and more vertical than standard. Also I requested a single point yoke with no pleats at the back.


Turn around time:


The turnaround time of jacket was really quick. I placed the order late November and received the jacket just after Christmas. Didn’t expect the jacket to arrive til maybe February next year. I think this is due to the Horween shortage so all the badalassi order were made first.


Fit
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I think the jacket fits me pretty good overall. Out of the box the sleeves and shoulder feels a tad more restrictive than the hooch hauler but not overly so. After a few wears the leather had relaxed more and I can layer the jacket with all the heavier winter jumper I own.

Lengthwise it is pretty good imo. Knowing the Premier HB has a 1.5 inch front drop I spec’ed the back length to be 1 inch shorter than the Hooch Hauler. Also I increased the sleeve length by .75 inch.

Leather

Again the badalassi leather is beautiful. I like grain and I requested the grainiest hide possible when making this order. However it came out quite bit smoother than the tobacco even though I didn’t specifically request the grainiest possible when I was ordering the hooch hauler. I would prefer it to be grainier tbh but nonetheless it is a beautiful leather and I am very happy with it either way. Hopefully with more wear and giving it the spray bottle treatment it will develop more grain down the line.


Result of my design change request

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The larger more vertical chest pocket I requested came out a little different than the sample test jacket I saw and requested. A little too high up and close to the collar imo. Also pleats were made at the half belt. I looked back at the production sheet and found it was missed out. I probably should have checked the production more thoroughly. But anyway I think even though it is not perfect it looks pretty good and I am happy with it.


Tony Leather Crosszip


This is my fourth jacket with Tony. By this point the measurements need no changing. As usual I sourced the leather for Tony. I went for the black badalassi nappa. Which is the same as the one aero uses but without the shine finish. I also sourced my own buckle and lining.

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Again Tony did a fine job. Fit came out good. This Crosszip can really rival my Hooch Hauler in terms of finish and pattern. The pattern I have had from Tony so far ie the half belt,campus jacket and crosszip are all fantastic. What Tony misses are leather choices, hardware and lining choices which I can easily source anyway.


Leather

The leather is matte out of the box. Which I think pairs well with the Crosszip look. The grain is heavier, comparable with the cognac and tobacco badalassi I own which is nice. Also I think it is a little heavier than the badalassi aero uses. Given how my cognac has developed a more natural glow and more grain with wear I am excited with how this will develop down the line.

I am done for this winter. For next winter I will probably have one field leather and a Thedi in mid brown and black leather. A huge thank you for all the helpful members on here to aid in my leather jacket addiction! My girlfriend is proper annoyed of me wearing leather jackets around the house all the time.
 
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MrProper

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,403
Location
Europe
Congratulations. Fit is spot on. Very nice jackets.
If it weren't for the sourcing, I would also order a jacket from Tony one day.
 

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Congratulations. Fit is spot on. Very nice jackets.
If it weren't for the sourcing, I would also order a jacket from Tony one day.

Nice review and both jackets are beautiful, I really like the Tony Leathers one, they fit you very well.

Thanks for the kind words!

Wow, your newest Tony is absolutely perfect. Great pattern, it really accentuates your athletic physique.

How do the Aero and the Tony compare in terms of comfort?

They both have a 22 p2p and are comfortable even with layering with a thick jumper. However the aero has a much narrower shoulder it certainly feels a tad more restrictive.

Also I find the seems of both of my Aeros are quite wavy which my Tony jackets arent Makes the jackets look a little cleaner overall. Especially at the waist area. Maybe the seams will relax a bit after more wear I'm not sure.

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Tom71

One Too Many
Messages
1,398
Location
Europe
Both jackets look and fit great! I do prefer the Aero. The black Badalassi is just a great hide. Nice twist with the chest pocket. Looks way more aggressive than the regular setup.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,918
Location
Bay Area CA
The Tonys black half belt cross zip is perfect on you but the Aero fits very well too. That's an impressive collection of badalassi!
 

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Both jackets look and fit great! I do prefer the Aero. The black Badalassi is just a great hide. Nice twist with the chest pocket. Looks way more aggressive than the regular setup.

Thanks very much! It’s squeaky as hell though haha

The Tonys black half belt cross zip is perfect on you but the Aero fits very well too. That's an impressive collection of badalassi!

Thanks very much! Got a bit carried away with the badalassi for sure. Next winter I will focus on horsehide haha
 
Messages
14,304
Location
Chicago
Am i the only one who doesn’t know what “Tony” is?
He is a maker based in China I believe. From what I’ve seen, he understands fitting a jacket to a human form better than what I would say is comparable in 5 star. Actually I would put his jackets several tiers above 5 Star as both the leathers and hardware, as well as the patterns seem a notch or two above.
 

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Very nice pair of jackets! I also think the Tony Leathers one compliments your shape and looks fantastic on you. Congratulations!


Two more outstanding jackets! Well done! I love them both!

Thanks very much for the kind words! Really appreciate it.


Am i the only one who doesn’t know what “Tony” is?

Tony Leathers is a jacket maker in Shanghai.
I made a few posts on his jackets. You can check out his work from my posts.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ou-wearing-today.82949/page-1851#post-2871346

[URL]https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/badalassi-carlo-nappa-second-jacket-from-tony-leathers.105444/
[/URL]
 

TREEMAN

One Too Many
Messages
1,999
Location
USA
Both jackets fit really well...Great Job !!
The write-up and pics were also very well done.....
 
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matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Both jackets fit really well...Great Job !!
The write-up and pics were also very well done.....

Thanks very much for the kind words!


Nicely done!

Have to agree that also not really digging the pleats on the Aero though.

Yes it would be better without the pleats I agree but it doesn’t bother me too much. Makes it a little different to other jackets I own.
 
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