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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

JMax

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,335
Gammas is drool worthy. You never see those come up thing of beauty.

Only one I have ever seen. Lawrence out of MA.

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Bonasera

New in Town
Messages
37
Wow! Thanks for posting this Beauty! I found Mission Leather in the San Francisco City directory. I don't recall the exact date, but certainly late 1930s. They were located on Mission Street, the location of the leather industry during those times in SF. This is only the second jacket I have seen. Another member had one. They were a small shop and I don't recall how long they were listed. (I've got all this somewhere, too much to recall) Surprising that more of their labels don't show up. They could well have used other labels or non-labeled jackets.

I downloaded your pictures examining the attached belt. It is most unusual and turns the jacket into a 50s look and the jacket was not made in the 50s. Like mine, made in the 1939-41. My first reaction is the removal of the side straps and addition of a sewn on belt.

The lining has been replaced in the area that belt loops are attached. This could be wear of course, but has a different look to me.

You can see how the side belts are attached on my jacket, the location. Is there any indication of these being removed from your jacket? The attached belt and loops looked to be well done Pro work, do you note anything in that construction?

I need to look at some pics of the era and see if I can find such an attached belt.
Checked the same location of the side belts on your jacket, but can't find any mark of side belts...
btw, the leather of the waist belt has same feel as the jacket.
and the right pocket has hand stitch for repairment and the letters "AUMAN".

I would be happy if these pictures could help you.
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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,104
Location
Illinois
Checked the same location of the side belts on your jacket, but can't find any mark of side belts...
btw, the leather of the waist belt has same feel as the jacket.
and the right pocket has hand stitch for repairment and the letters "AUMAN".

I would be happy if these pictures could help you.
View attachment 428470 View attachment 428471 View attachment 428472 View attachment 428473 View attachment 428474

Thank you for posting these pictures. I think you understand why I questioned the sewn on belt. I'm not bashing the jacket. If You ever want to sell it let me know. I would give you top dollar for it. I would not sell mine,

It is well done work. I too thought the belt was an excellent match with the jacket leather. The style of belt looks 50s. Interestingly people removed sewn on belts from 50s jackets
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,104
Location
Illinois
If I was buying this jacket I would see it as non-original, but that would not deter my interest in owning the jacket. I see it as quite rare and Valuable. The belt makes it more interesting to me. I have two Montgomery Wards jackets very similar to the Mission, one has the belt the other is removed. This was part of what happened through the years. The Black color just looks outstanding. This represents the bay area makers very well.
 

Bonasera

New in Town
Messages
37
Thank you for posting these pictures. I think you understand why I questioned the sewn on belt. I'm not bashing the jacket. If You ever want to sell it let me know. I would give you top dollar for it. I would not sell mine,

It is well done work. I too thought the belt was

If I was buying this jacket I would see it as non-original, but that would not deter my interest in owning the jacket. I see it as quite rare and Valuable. The belt makes it more interesting to me. I have two Montgomery Wards jackets very similar to the Mission, one has the belt the other is removed. This was part of what happened through the years. The Black color just looks outstanding. This represents the bay area makers very well.
I enjoy watching FL people shares pictures of nice vintage jackets and discusses about them. So I will post more pictures if you want. Your guess about the waist belt is interesting. The waist belt on my jacket was possibly exchanged afterwards as your guess.

My mission jacket is the most favorite one among my collections. So unfortunately I'm not gonna sell it sorry.

I'm not good at English so please forgive my weird English and late reply lol.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,104
Location
Illinois
My mission jacket is the most favorite one among my collections. So unfortunately I'm not gonna sell it sorry.

I'm not good at English so please forgive my weird English and late reply lol.

Yes, share more jackets. Your English is fine. I'm not selling mine either!!
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,104
Location
Illinois
Ralphs pugh steerhide motorcycle jacket
made in 40s〜early 50s?

How exciting, a Ralphs-Pugh Steerhide! This steerhide label was registered in 1938 in Green Print. Steerhide was proudly used by RP they also made many jackets in horsehide.

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This green label was probably short lived as most Steerhide labels are like your jacket. This label is used into the early 1950s. Your jacket dates around 1940 with the beautiful tripled marked Talon Sunrise zipper.

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Bonasera

New in Town
Messages
37
How exciting, a Ralphs-Pugh Steerhide! This steerhide label was registered in 1938 in Green Print. Steerhide was proudly used by RP they also made many jackets in horsehide.

View attachment 433197

This green label was probably short lived as most Steerhide labels are like your jacket. This label is used into the early 1950s. Your jacket dates around 1940 with the beautiful tripled marked Talon Sunrise zipper.

View attachment 433198
What a nice historical info!!
Very cool designed label...
I think RP is one of the best manufacturer in lether jacket history.
Especially I like their d-pocket jacket design, and I'm still looking for it.

Thanks
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,104
Location
Illinois
What a nice historical info!!
Very cool designed label...
I think RP is one of the best manufacturer in lether jacket history.
Especially I like their d-pocket jacket design, and I'm still looking for it.

RP continues on today, but no leather jackets. They produce parts for conveyer belts. Their production of clothing goes back to the 1920s and seems to end in the mid 1950s. I've contacted the company and they have little knowledge of their jacket heritage.

The inspiration for the label dawned on me one day. It is to celebrate the opening of the Golden Gate bridge in 1938. This label was registered in 1938

They made a variety of clothing,; pants, shirts, jackets of leather and other materials.

They did produce some very interesting D pocket jackets. I have yet to find one too.

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Bonasera

New in Town
Messages
37
RP continues on today, but no leather jackets. They produce parts for conveyer belts. Their production of clothing goes back to the 1920s and seems to end in the mid 1950s. I've contacted the company and they have little knowledge of their jacket heritage.
I'm very surprised with this info.
When I googled the word " Ralphs pugh" before and saw the parts company's website. I thought the company had nothing to do with the leather jacket brand at that time.
Though their clothing business was closed, it's great that the company still continues.
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,274
RP continues on today, but no leather jackets. They produce parts for conveyer belts. Their production of clothing goes back to the 1920s and seems to end in the mid 1950s. I've contacted the company and they have little knowledge of their jacket heritage.

The inspiration for the label dawned on me one day. It is to celebrate the opening of the Golden Gate bridge in 1938. This label was registered in 1938

They made a variety of clothing,; pants, shirts, jackets of leather and other materials.

They did produce some very interesting D pocket jackets. I have yet to find one too.

View attachment 433218 View attachment 433219 View attachment 433220 View attachment 433221 View attachment 433222
Those half bitten D pockets with the hand warmer entry is really cool. Would love to see an original one and how they did it. Was the back side (of the D patch) lined before top stitched onto the body? Lots of very refined and interesting leather jackets from California for sure.
 

Bonasera

New in Town
Messages
37
Sports jacket Tailored by Glover

The tag says size 42, but this fits like 38.
Among vintage jackets, I sometimes see some jackets that were much smaller than the size number In tag.
I'm wondering why some jackets in old days were not made to actual size.
 

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Craig from Craigslist

One of the Regulars
Messages
117
Coincidentally Levis just reproduced this style again (I think they did this jacket in another color several years ago) in their latest LVC collection. That said, they appear to have opted for sheepskin or maybe suede, honestly the photos on the Levi's site are not that great.
https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/levis-vintage-clothing/levis-vintage-clothing-for-men/reversible-leather-jacket



 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,104
Location
Illinois
Sports jacket Tailored by Glover

The tag says size 42, but this fits like 38.
Among vintage jackets, I sometimes see some jackets that were much smaller than the size number In tag.
I'm wondering why some jackets in old days were not made to actual size.

Glover of Dubuque Iowa catalog from 1935. This catalog is large and shows the many designs and styles for men and women in outerwear, wool and leather.



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I'm wondering why some jackets in old days were not made to actual size.

I have not found vintage jackets to be that off in sizing compared to contemporary jackets. Some are some aren't. In other words, I don't trust contemporary sizing anymore than vintage sizing.
 

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