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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

EAC

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
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This guy is wearing a badass Aviator and he knows it. D-pocket, D ring cuff adjusters, D ring side adjusters. Does anyone recognize the maker?

Closest match I found is this Simmons Bilt, from one of Rin Tanaka's books:

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This one is probably an earlier example, judging by the zip stopper (the D-pocket and cuffs design are slightly different, too).
 

JMax

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,125
I got a D pocket Ralphs Pugh jacket.

Unique designed D pocket
talon zip with "3" mark on the zip box
Side adjustment belts

This D pocket can be put a hand from the left side. When I wear a leather jacket, I often walk with hands put into pockets.
So I really like this design.

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That is stunning. And why I stay away from shopping the Japanese sites. Way too tempting. I’m trying to save all I can for when the apocalypse hits. Food, bourbon, guns and ammo bud. Lol.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,009
Location
Illinois
I got a D pocket Ralphs Pugh jacket.

Unique designed D pocket
talon zip with "3" mark on the zip box
Side adjustment belts

This D pocket can be put a hand from the left side. When I wear a leather jacket, I often walk with hands put into pockets.
So I really like this design.

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I have a small collection of Ralphs-Pugh jackets and a big interest in the company and their jackets. They remain in business today, but do not produce leather jackets.

I've got their history in my mind, just don't get around to writing it down. They were producing outerwear/workwear going back to the 20s. The jackets disappear around the mid 50s. They made impressive clothing throughout this time.

Your jacket is late 30s early 40s with the sunrise zipper. Many of their jackets in this time were made of steerhide, so the horsehide is a bit different. Later in the 40s/50s horsehide became more prevalent. This is odd compared to the popularity of horsehide in the 30s.

This jacket continues with the influence of the Sears Hercules model; fancy back, low adjustment. The D pocket is similar to other bay area makers who seem to be competing with design of the pocket.

Here are some other RPs. (none of these are mine)

Here is your jacket in brown steerhide c.1939. (for sale in Japan) I have a couple of pre-war RP pieces, but most are post war.

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Canuck Panda

One Too Many
Messages
1,885
I just thought of another way of dating the jackets. By the type of thread used.

Poly cotton thread wasn't really commercialized until the 50s. So if the loose thread melts with a lighter, it's poly blend, aka post war. If the loose thread keeps burning and doesn't melt then it's cotton so pre war. Of course this would need to burn a small thread to know, which isn't ideal. But another way is to look for melted thread ends around the cuff and inside hem. If visible, then it's poly, if not then cotton. The melted thread ends has been one of my pet peeves on expensive repros depending where they are located, it irritate my skin the wrong way. And one thing lead to another, I fell upon this thought about the threads.
 
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