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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

EAC

One of the Regulars
Messages
141
View attachment 422324


This guy is wearing a badass Aviator and he knows it. D-pocket, D ring cuff adjusters, D ring side adjusters. Does anyone recognize the maker?

Closest match I found is this Simmons Bilt, from one of Rin Tanaka's books:

SB_1930.jpg
SB_1930_2.jpg


This one is probably an earlier example, judging by the zip stopper (the D-pocket and cuffs design are slightly different, too).
 

Bonasera

New in Town
Messages
36
I got a D pocket Ralphs Pugh jacket.

Unique designed D pocket
talon zip with "3" mark on the zip box
Side adjustment belts

This D pocket can be put a hand from the left side. When I wear a leather jacket, I often walk with hands put into pockets.
So I really like this design.

_20220903_142616.JPG _20220903_142601.JPG _20220903_142440.JPG _20220903_142400.JPG _20220903_142506.JPG _20220903_142531.JPG _20220903_142939.JPG
 

JMax

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,325
I got a D pocket Ralphs Pugh jacket.

Unique designed D pocket
talon zip with "3" mark on the zip box
Side adjustment belts

This D pocket can be put a hand from the left side. When I wear a leather jacket, I often walk with hands put into pockets.
So I really like this design.

View attachment 450068 View attachment 450069 View attachment 450070 View attachment 450071 View attachment 450072 View attachment 450073 View attachment 450074

That is stunning. And why I stay away from shopping the Japanese sites. Way too tempting. I’m trying to save all I can for when the apocalypse hits. Food, bourbon, guns and ammo bud. Lol.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,092
Location
Illinois
I got a D pocket Ralphs Pugh jacket.

Unique designed D pocket
talon zip with "3" mark on the zip box
Side adjustment belts

This D pocket can be put a hand from the left side. When I wear a leather jacket, I often walk with hands put into pockets.
So I really like this design.

View attachment 450068 View attachment 450069 View attachment 450070 View attachment 450071 View attachment 450072 View attachment 450073 View attachment 450074

I have a small collection of Ralphs-Pugh jackets and a big interest in the company and their jackets. They remain in business today, but do not produce leather jackets.

I've got their history in my mind, just don't get around to writing it down. They were producing outerwear/workwear going back to the 20s. The jackets disappear around the mid 50s. They made impressive clothing throughout this time.

Your jacket is late 30s early 40s with the sunrise zipper. Many of their jackets in this time were made of steerhide, so the horsehide is a bit different. Later in the 40s/50s horsehide became more prevalent. This is odd compared to the popularity of horsehide in the 30s.

This jacket continues with the influence of the Sears Hercules model; fancy back, low adjustment. The D pocket is similar to other bay area makers who seem to be competing with design of the pocket.

Here are some other RPs. (none of these are mine)

Here is your jacket in brown steerhide c.1939. (for sale in Japan) I have a couple of pre-war RP pieces, but most are post war.

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Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,238
I just thought of another way of dating the jackets. By the type of thread used.

Poly cotton thread wasn't really commercialized until the 50s. So if the loose thread melts with a lighter, it's poly blend, aka post war. If the loose thread keeps burning and doesn't melt then it's cotton so pre war. Of course this would need to burn a small thread to know, which isn't ideal. But another way is to look for melted thread ends around the cuff and inside hem. If visible, then it's poly, if not then cotton. The melted thread ends has been one of my pet peeves on expensive repros depending where they are located, it irritate my skin the wrong way. And one thing lead to another, I fell upon this thought about the threads.
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,238
Did the extra top stitching details disappear right before or during the war? Blackadder that 40's Schott is awesome. Detailed decorative stitching through out. I can think of one maker that does that repro and it's a "50s" no top stitch repro. Was just looking at that repro and saw this post...
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,092
Location
Illinois
Taken from a current Etsy sale. This same jacket is in one "the Books". The leather banner says Cabretta, this surprised me. This was a popular tag in the 60s and 70s, never seen on a jacket this old.

Love that label. The Vintage California labels are also so interesting with their images of the West.

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Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,238
Taken from a current Etsy sale. This same jacket is in one "the Books". The leather banner says Cabretta, this surprised me. This was a popular tag in the 60s and 70s, never seen on a jacket this old.

Love that label. The Vintage California labels are also so interesting with their images of the West.

View attachment 454076 View attachment 454077
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That's these two from the book. I've trying to do a repro of this one but didn't turn out good. Very awesome jackets. One of the two has a very fancy curved front.
IMG_5604.jpg

IMG_5605.jpg
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,505
Location
China
Did the extra top stitching details disappear right before or during the war? Blackadder that 40's Schott is awesome. Detailed decorative stitching through out. I can think of one maker that does that repro and it's a "50s" no top stitch repro. Was just looking at that repro and saw this post...
You mean like this?
https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/08/20/campus-sportswear-horsehide-leather-jacket/
Ton has an original Campus jacket and has a repro made by 5 Star. I also have an original 50s leather jacket like that without the tag so not sure if it is a Campus. Here is mine.
i-img900x1200-1646900419uwywo771342.jpg
 

Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,238
You mean like this?
https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/08/20/campus-sportswear-horsehide-leather-jacket/
Ton has an original Campus jacket and has a repro made by 5 Star. I also have an original 50s leather jacket like that without the tag so not sure if it is a Campus. Here is mine.
View attachment 454106
I meant the 40s Schott has French stitch on the cuffs and the shoulder/sleeve and side and back panels. Aero makes this repro, they call it Hercules and they made it 50s by using fold over top stitches. I am never gonna use this jacket for motorbike so french seams is ok. Looks a lot fancier. GW also did one. I missed that jacket int he Classifieds before. That one is put together more like the 40s than the 50s jacket. I am not saying french seams are better. In fact I prefer the fold over then top stitched for strength. But on a casual jacket I really dig the fancy stitching look. I bet the inside lining of the pre-war jackets are also done differently. Just starting to appreciate all these smaller details.

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Canuck Panda

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,238
You mean like this?
https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/08/20/campus-sportswear-horsehide-leather-jacket/
Ton has an original Campus jacket and has a repro made by 5 Star. I also have an original 50s leather jacket like that without the tag so not sure if it is a Campus. Here is mine.
View attachment 454106
The Campus jacket is really the bridge between the prewar and post war construction method I think. It has some but not all the fancier details. While torso panels are still french seamed the cuffs moved to fold over seams and so are the shoulder/sleeve attach.
Regius mentioned to me once that the pre war construction were different. I didn't quite understand then. Now I see it. The older linings are also pieced together like an inside jacket than just a lining. Really quite fancy.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,505
Location
China
That's these two from the book. I've trying to do a repro of this one but didn't turn out good. Very awesome jackets. One of the two has a very fancy curved front.
View attachment 454104
View attachment 454105
Taken from a current Etsy sale. This same jacket is in one "the Books". The leather banner says Cabretta, this surprised me. This was a popular tag in the 60s and 70s, never seen on a jacket this old.

Love that label. The Vintage California labels are also so interesting with their images of the West.

View attachment 454076 View attachment 454077
View attachment 454078 View attachment 454079 View attachment 454080 View attachment 454081 View attachment 454082
Another Los Angeles Sportstog. This one on Yahoo Auction
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1070560482
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