Not saying this is the case with you, but to me this was a cas of unknown unknown.
When i first joined TFl it was basically an Aero cult.
I did what everybody else did, i bought some Aeros, and like everybody else i thought they where a great jacket, i thought what i was experiencing was how a leather jacket felt, how it was supposed to feel.
It's only after i had worn a bunch of other jackets that i started realizing how poor the Aero fit was.
Had i only worn Aeros in my life i would never have known better.
After i started wearing Lewis Leathers, Freewheelers, Langlitz, Lost Worlds, RMC, Schott, etc, i knew better.
I am the shape of a potato sack. I see no problem.So actually those of us who own and enjoy one, two or more of Aero's jackets we simply own "potato sacks" (a term once used by a banned here jacket maker who actually once threatened you personally)? Or our bodies are less "human" as you say to the rest of you?
As a friend I'd advise using less extreme phrasing Carlos because this post is offending.
Dude, not trying to start a beef here, but as I read this paragraph it occurred to me that you yourself talk almost entirely about Japanese jackets as well. Therefore I am not terribly surprised that your conversation went in that direction with Ken.
Edit: I wanted to add that I am not doubting your account and I think it is poor form when one maker badmouths another to make themselves look or feel better.
The jacket looks fantastic.
The jacket looks fantastic.
Can you please give us an insight on how CHIPS jacket fits?
Is the bottom hem more cinched up (smaller) compared to hwm?
Would be great if you post the measurements when you have spare time.
Thank you. I really dig the design of the CHIPS. Have you replaced the zipper? looks like it is a two way zipper not the standard talon.Thanks. I will get measurements up soon. I am no Aero expert. Far from it. Pretty sure it’s the HWM pattern. I am normally a 42/44, even a 46 in vintage jackets, and I went with a 40 Chips and a one size down taper to the bottom hem. It did away with the box shape of the HWM/Chips. It’s the way to go with this jacket, IMO.
Thank you. I really dig the design of the CHIPS. Have you replaced the zipper? looks like it is a two way zipper not the standard talon.
I agree. I had an Aero jacket whose zipper failed after like 5 wears. Heavy hide jackets (cxl weight) need Heavier duty zippers imo.24” P2P
20.5” Hem (a tad more)
I had to install a new zip when the #5 Talon went kaput. My only complaint with Aero is their refusal to install larger zips when a customer asks for it. I know what I want and need. Otherwise, awesome jacket. I went two-way because I like their versatility. I have them on my Vanson and on one of my LW too.
Thank you so much for such a thorough answer. You have a nice collection.@high-maintenance
To be honest I am not 100 percent sure which of my jackets are skived or not. Except the one I bought the leather myself.
When it’s done right, both method works well. That’s why I can’t tell. It’s when the glue shows (skived method), or when stitches skips (unskived method), that becomes the problem. But this is a quality control problem not a skive/unskived process problem.
LW, very thick horse hide, some parts seems to be skived and other seams kept unskived. Pic of what I think is skived seam, 4 layers 7mm thick. LW has the cleanest stitches for thickest leather. Period. But they cost too much.
View attachment 393219
Simmonsbilt, I believe these are unskived seams, 4 layers of leather 8mm thick. Most bang for buck for fancy leather options. But sizing can be hit and miss.
View attachment 393220
Aeros FQHH are actually not that thick, their steerhide is different story though, 4 layers FQHH unskived 6mm thick. Sale page provides best value. If you wait long enough the right deal shows up, always.
View attachment 393221
Finally this is the Johnson M500 I sent him my own Horween cow. The leather is 2mm ish thick, and JL uses skived method at the seams, not the whole panel. 4 layers of leather, 5mm thick, at the seams.
View attachment 393222
JL keep the panels original thickness, 2 layers of 2mm ish leather, 4 mm.
View attachment 393223
I didn’t list any makers using 1.4mm leather or thinner. Because that wouldn’t even matter skived or not, like what HH said earlier post.
I also had thought that unskived shoulder seams are better for comfort, but I was wrong. It has more to do with where the shoulder seam hangs on the shoulder. The only way to find out which one is best for you is by trying them. Wish there were an easier way but unfortunately no.
View attachment 393224
I remember looking at your Columbia in the Classifieds. I am quite certain Langlitz also don’t skive, but I could be wrong. And they use 1.4mm cow which isn’t super thick. To fully experience the unskived seams it’s gotta be 1.8mm leather or thicker. Good luck on your next one.
I already wanted to use this expression 100 times, but I did not know if it was possible to do it in a tolerant societydesigned to fit a human body rather than a potato sac.
It seems simple enough - if you don't like skived leather, Aero is your choice. If skiving is your thing, other makers are available.
If Ken Calder and co. don't skive leather and have a reason for that decision which they stick by and are open about, it isn't as if it's a concealed error or some sort of duplicity: it seems that a few sentences are getting microscopically dissected. Given that the bloke was directly asked about Japanese jackets, it is unsurprising that he would then oblige the asker by answering in full. This is a far cry from someone obsessively bringing it up when no question had been asked - it is misrepresentation to present the one thing as the other.
I thought it was weird when I found glue in a Simmons Bilt jacket, but it seems the norm. I'd love to get a Japanese jacket at some point, but they seem (to me) to fit poorly on Western body types almost as a rule.
The webpage puts it all out for ya...
Making an Aero leathers jacket (aeroleatherclothing.com)