When and where to wear?

[ArrowCollarMan]

I usually pay particular attention to people's attire in old movies. Everyday wear is their usual suit and hat but there are three different kinds of dress for formal occasions: there is the moring coat with the striped pants and so on and black die and black tuxedo jacket (like that of a suit jacket) and the full dress tuxedo with coat tails. How does one know when to wear what?

 

[Grimstar]

I usually pay particular attention to people's attire in old movies. Everyday wear is their usual suit and hat but there are three different kinds of dress for formal occasions: there is the moring coat with the striped pants and so on and black die and black tuxedo jacket (like that of a suit jacket) and the full dress tuxedo with coat tails. How does one know when to wear what?

There were quite elaborate dress charts during the victorian era to show what one should wear for particular occasions at particular times of day...but basically it boils down to this...

For formal events taking place before noon (or 2 in the afternoon...depends on the source) the morning coat with striped or plain trousers and all of the other kit that goes with it is the correct thing.

For semi formal events that take place in the evening (i.e. after 4 p.m. or tea time) the tuxedo or dinner jacket with dark formal pants having ONE stripe down the outside seam is the thing to wear....this includes simply going to dinner at nicer establishments with a date...Note: I have done this often when traveling with my wife...the nicer the restaurant, the less likely you are to get odd looks...and the more likely you are to not be the only one wearing a dinner jacket.

For formal evening events, the tailcoat with matching trousers having TWO stripes down the outside seam is the correct thing...(95 % of all formal evening wear today have incorrect trousers...it's just cheaper for the manufacturer that way) This can be worn slightly earlier in the day if the event starts earlier, will continue into the evening, and one will not have the chance to change during it. (This was the case with my wedding...completely formal, at Biltmore estate, but it actually started at 4 in the afternoon...since the reception was immediately afterward and was to last until 11 p.m., tails were correct...)

Now, as to what defines formal versus semi formal...there are two ways to tell...if the invitation says "black tie" then the event is semi formal (dinner jacket) if the invitation says "white tie" the event is formal (tailcoat) if the invitation doesn't say, but it is an engraved invitation written in the third person, the event is formal...if the invitation is written in the first person, technically the event is semi formal...but if it is not specified, it's best to call ahead and check.

How I know all this is a very long and boring story... lol

Grimstar (the owner of both a full set of tails and a dinner jacket...as well as a kilt and prince charlie coatee...)

 

[Grimstar]

Or you could always wear this...

perfect for any formal evening occasion...

(The kilt, shirt and jabot are my construction...the coatee and waistcoat were purchased right before the trip as I ran out of time...) BTW, this got compliments from an actual member of the Blackwatch who was onboard...definitely made my day (or night, in this case... lol )

 

[ArrowCollarMan]

The only time I wore tails for a formal occasion was Homecoming 05'. It wasn't full dress, however, I did like wearing the tie with it. Is that a bad combonation?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Not a bad combination. I think etiquette frowns upon black tie with wing collar (something about looking like a butler) But who cares what etiquette says? I for one, wish etiquette would slip away and quietly die.

bk

 

[ArrowCollarMan]

Some people did say I looked sometihng like a butler, but most of the comments I got were positive. One guy, I remember was highly impressed. Although my friends also wore tails and the vest/tie ensamble (except for one, his was a regular jacket).