Recent content by manton

As great as Lesser is -- and I think it is the best cloth being made today -- a couple of years ago, someone who worked there gave me a stack of 3x3" swatches from the '40s - '60s that were unbelievable. I really did not understand what Matt Deckard was talking about re: vintage fabrics until...

Santa Cruz. But I don't live there any more. :(

There should be a press line that extends from collar down through about the top quarter of the lapel. Below that is the roll. Basically, you want to sharpen that press line, but not continue it. Unfurl the lapel below that line and lay if flat and press the UNDERSIDE (using a press cloth, as...

An extended shoulder is one that extends past your natural shoulderline. It's hard to define precisely because the shoulder is not an angle but a curve. At what point does the shoulder start to "extend" exactly? You could get measured by two different tailors, and one will say your...

I have this book. I don't recall what I paid for it, but not that much!

I. Magnin, San Francisco. Those were the days. :)

I think a DB needs two lapel buttonholes, SB -- whether peak or notch -- should have only one. Any fewer for either is a modernist, minimalist look.

It's not that the extra buttons were added later. The original DBs buttoned all the way up. To "relax" the coat and make it cooler (temp-wise, not fashion-wise) and less military, the closure point and crossover were lowered, but the buttons kept for visual interest.

Some book, I forgot which one, describes how after the election, Churchill went to see the king. When he came out of the place, he got into a big black chauffer-driven Rolls Royce and was whisked away. Just as he left, Atlee puttered up in this little economy car smaller than the Rolls' trunk...

No, not during the war. Manchester wrote it in the context of the '30s. Maybe after the war he switched.

According to Manchester (and others) Churchill drank Red. At Chartwell, they have a little display of some of his indulgences, supposedly actually his stuff. Certainly, it was all old. I don't remember everything, but I remember a bottle of JW Red, a bottle of Hine Antique (both empty), an...

Yep, that's it, if indeed incorrect pitch is the source of the problem. However, the horizontal ripple on that checked coat is not caused by incorrect pitch. The shoulders on that coat are too narrow. Incorrect pitch is most likely to show up in the front or back of the sleeve. If you...

It's brown:

It's not hard, it's just a PitA. You have to take the sleeve completely out and reset it. Tailors don't like do-overs. I like that brown chalk stripe. :rolleyes: