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Meeting my maker! Ravistailor.com
The lapel rolls to the middle button on a three-button jacket. This was commonly seen on by Brooks Brothers suit jackets and sportcoats. On further inspection, yours is more of a 3-to-2.5 roll -- the lapel rolls to a point between the top and middle buttons. In my book, even nicer than a... -
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Meeting my maker! Ravistailor.com
Nicely done. I like the 3-to-2 roll. My only quibble is the funky button "anchors." I was under the impression that jacket front buttons shouldn't be stitched through to the other side of the material. Otherwise, that is one of the best Ravi suits I've seen -- they even seem to have gotten the... -
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The 1950s Suit
At least until the mid to late 1930s, 15-oz. was a spring weight. -
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Elastic Band Thingy around Arms of Shirts - What is it?
They're called sleeve garters. -
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Unboxing my new Black Mod Suit from Indochino.
The suit looks good and fits well. My only criticism -- and it's the same gripe I have with just about every online tailor I've seen -- is that the boutonniere hole is a keyhole buttonhole. I prefer the traditional boutonniere hole. It's similar to the keyhole, except that it's just a slit... -
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Yet Another My Custom Tailor Suit
Annixter, I apologize that my comments came across as too harsh. I think you accomplished a significant achievement with an online suit, considering some of the horror stories I've read. Yours fits quite well, and the adjustments that I and others have indicated should be fairly straightforward... -
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Yet Another My Custom Tailor Suit
Overall, the fit isn't bad (the shoulders look just about spot on). And now the bad news. The jacket looks 2 to 3 inches too long, the armhole looks maybe an inch too low, and the sleeves are about 2 inches too long. The vest is 1.5 to 2 inches too long in front and at least 4 inches too long on... -
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What is the history behind trouser lengths?
No, the trouser length is pretty accurate. Look at old movies going back to the 1930s. Trousers generally had only a slight break or no break at all. In the '60s it was fashionable to dispense with the break, and slim-cut trousers tended to ride up a little, making the trouser leg look even... -
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1940 Spring/Summer Mont. Ward suits
Using the consumer price index, $20 in 1940 would be about $310 today, and that $24 suit with six-button vest and two pairs of pants, about $370. Try getting a suit like that -- probably with 15- to 16-ounce fabric and basted- (not fused-) front jacket -- for anything less than a grand today... -
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Unusual Spectator shoe option
Indy, which type of construction is used -- Goodyear welt, or Blake stitch? And do you make a last so that reordering is easy and the results are consistent?- Tzedekh
- Post #12
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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3 button vs. 2 button
Then why were suits so commonly vested? I would think eliminating the vest would reduce cost more. -
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Tailors in Melbourne & Sydney
Yes, that is a danger with a shorter waistcoat. If one is to pursue a shorter vintage look, one must also make sure that the trouser waist is suitably higher, as well. -
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Tailors in Melbourne & Sydney
The suit looks good, but the waistcoat suffers from "modernitis" -- it looks about 3 to 4 inches too long. This is typical (I should say nearly invariable) with modern vests. Your natural waist looks to be a little above the fourth vest button; this is where the waistband should be. Therefore... -
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Tailored shirts
Do they have single-needle side seams, or safety (overlock) stitched? Do they do removable collar stays? -
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Belted back, double breasted, and linen - by Ralph Lauren?!?
I highly doubt that people today can't fit into a period-cut jacket. Sure, people are heavier today -- and considerably taller, too -- but there were heavier-set people in the 1930s, and they wore the more form-fitting jackets of the period. I just think that since the 1970s, when clothes were... -
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Sears & Roebuck Spring and Summer 1938. Scanned images
I found it interesting that as early as 1938 (and possibly earlier), Sears was promoting fused collars, which at the time probably seemed like an innovation (as did no-iron polyester blends 30 years later). It's odd that there were only two French-cuffed shirts, one of which was collarless. By... -
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Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!
True, but from what I've read, male actors at that time were expected to provide their own wardrobe, at least suits (I recall reading that Cary Grant would have three or four copies of a suit made by his tailor), plus there was also stock wardrobe for extras, so a film's costume designer's...- Tzedekh
- Post #516
- Forum: Outerwear and Workwear
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Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!
I didn't see it. I saw an old photo of the label in the coat.- Tzedekh
- Post #514
- Forum: Outerwear and Workwear
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Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!
I've seen a close-up photo of the maker's label on the trenchcoat Bogart wore in Casablanca, bearing the name of the film's wardrobe designer, Orry-Kelly (full name, John Orry Kelly). It was probably made for the film by the studio wardrobe department.- Tzedekh
- Post #512
- Forum: Outerwear and Workwear
