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GRAIL! GRAIL! GRAIL!
Stunning guncheck jacket by Winston Tailoring of New York City (formerly Chipp), one of the finest tailoring houses in the world. Tailor to JFK!
I don't use the term "grail" lightly, but this jacket most certainly qualifies. Although I occasionally find Chipp items in the wild (usually ties) this is the ONLY Winston item that I have ever seen. My suspicion is that this is because Winston clothing, like that of the top Savile Row houses, is kept for the life of its owner, and then inherited by his heirs who then have it altered (if necessary) for their own wear, and so rarely makes it to the secondary market.
Winston Tailors is currently run by Paul Winston, who was kind enough to verify that the sole label in this jacket (a rather mysterious "W" surrounded by scrollwork that's very similar to that of the old Chipp labels) identified it as one of his. The firm was founded in 1945, by Sidney Winston, Paul's father, who made all of John F. Kennedy's suits and jackets and many suits for Robert F. Kennedy. (The heavy chalk-stripe suit that JFK was frequently photographed in--it was his favorite, and so got a lot of wear!--was a Winston suit.) But Winston Tailors weren't content to follow traditiona and make beautiful, classic, high-quality suits--they also *invented* many of the items that are now traditionally part of the preppy/Ivy clothing canon. Patch madras items? Winston Tailors. Four-panel trousers? Winston Tailors. Embroidered corduroys, now a favorite at places like J. Crew, where they are known as "critter pants"? Winston Tailoring. And, of course, there are the iconic Chipp ties.... regular emblematics until you look closely and catch the hidden meaning! (And then receive a polite yet stern request from your HR department to have a little chat with them, as much of the humor in them was from a more permissive age!
)Naturally, a tailoring firm that made world-class clothing and was a leading innovator had a clientele appropriate to its stature. Wilt Chamberlain, the great basketball player (and centerpiece of Robert Nozick's famous philosophical argument on justice!) was a Winston client--fitted by Mr. Winston using a stepladder. Thomas Watson, the Chairman of IBM, was a customer almost to his death. When asked why he kept having clothing made, he replied that there was a Chinese superstition that a man would not die if he still had clothing to pick up from his tailor. (He died at a time when he had nothing under commission at Winston.) And when a client was upset that his suit would not be ready before he had to leave for Paris, the next customer in line offered to deliver it to his hotel, as he would be leaving for Paris after the suit would be done. The first man gratefully agreed, the suit was delivered as promised--and Winston's then received a note of thanks, praising them for the quality of their delivery boys. The second client--who delivered the suit--was the American ambassador to France.
This jacket does full justice to the storied tradition of Chipp and Winston Tailoring. It's absolutely gorgeous, and a true grail item; if this is your size, grab it, as you're unlikely to see another.... Although you could still have one made to measure, or even bespoke, for you by Winston Tailoring!
This jacket is cut from mid-weight cloth that's on the heavier side of this category; it's by no means as heavy as Keeper's Tweed, but this is no lightweight jacket, either--as it shouldn't be, since it's a beautiful guncheck. (Although there is no indication of the source of the cloth since Winston Tailoring has one of the widest selections of Scottish cloths this side of the River Tay this was likely woven for use in jackets worn by British shooting parties.) The patterning and colourway are wonderful; a classic check base in moss and lichen greens, tans, and browns, with a beautiful and subtle windowpane overcheck in light autumnal bracken and rich conker brown.
Naturally, the tailoring is superb. This is cut as a 3/2 jacket with a very high label roll--the perfect cut for a jacket made by Winston with its roots in the Ivy Look, and cut from British tweed. The lapel roll is beautiful and fluid, as you'd expect from a jacket that's this perfectly cut. It is, of course, darted, and has a single centre vent. It is also fully canvassed, and fully lined. It features three button cuffs.
It only carries one label--the "W" in scrollwork that pronounces it as a Winston jacket. And since this is a Winston jacket this was made in New York City.
This jacket was previously owned by Dr. Tim Hosea, Harvard graduate and physician to the US National Rowing Team. It is in absolutely perfect condition.
It's always very difficult to price true grail items, especially one-offs like this, and my usual rule of thumb is, if they are in perfect condition, to offer them at roughly 10% of original retail.
So, how about $145, OR OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA for this beautiful piece of clothing history... about what you'd pay for a "nicer" jacket from Land's End?
Measurements:
Chest: 23
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 20 3/8
Length: 33 1/4
JFK wearing Chipp:
