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Why don't menswear companies just reproduce the aesthetic of the "classic" suit?

Fidena

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
orange ct
Given the high demand for a vintage suit in high quality, and the amount they go for, it's a wonder why companies haven't started to recreate suits after the golden era style. I've talked to friends that aren't vintage minded, and they agreed that golden era suits are much better looking than their modern counterparts. A few even went so far as to say they wouldn't be reluctant to wear a suit like that because they're "more classy".

So, why is it that only a few niche companies recreate Golden Era suits? Even better yet, vintage clothing in general. I've seen mackinaws, sweaters and the like go for incredibly high prices in good condition. Are they not aware of the demand?
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
I think that you're overstating the demand. That said, there are many suit manufacturers at various price-points who can produce the look through their MTM programs. And I imagine some of these companies (HSM, Hickey-Freeman, Oxxford) could source their archives for patterns that they used in the Golden Era; I know Oxxford will.
 

scotrace

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
14,376
Location
Small Town Ohio, USA
As Marc Chevalier has pointed out, the demand is not actually high. We are very much a niche market. And the details that make a vintage suit great - properly placed armholes, correct sleeve attachment, fabrc weight, attention to detail, take a suit into the MTM or custom level anyway.
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
To some degree, what we see in stores is a result of what the "buyers" find and then may recommend to the outlets that will sell them. Not all stores fall victim to that, but most do.

There seems to be a more current trend with some celebs having their own clothing line being offered that may give some input on what is considered "in style" today. Some of it, is not too bad, but then again, some of it is lifeless looking and dull.

I agree with your thoughts, it would be nice if someone would get "hip" to what is vintage and make more of it.
 

Nobert

Practically Family
Messages
832
Location
In the Maine Woods
I don't think it's insignificant to mention the attitude that tends to guide the thinking of not just clothing designers, but nearly every high roller in the "applied arts." It's more important to them to create something that is "now." The ideal is not to make something that suits (no pun intended) the needs of whoever they're designing for, but to be in the forefront of their field. This applies to clothing, achitecture, graphic design, and various endeavors that entail a creative as well as practical aspect.

In the field of menswear, the clearest example may be Armani, who apparently felt that making a garment that fits the human body was less important than for him to redifine the perameters of the men's fashion industry. Likewise with someone like Frank Gehry in architecture. It just strikes me as being more about the designer's ego and their need to put themselves on the map. The resultant hype then leads to a very high-pressure attitude in the entire field so that many artisan/craftsmaship approaches has been replaced by the kind of "cutting edge" ideal that has defined the fine arts for so much longer.
 

Oldsarge

One Too Many
Messages
1,440
Location
On the banks of the Wilamette
Exactly. As I have said before, fashion is about the designer screaming "Me! Me!" but style is about a good tailor knowing it's all about you. That's why saving one's money and spending the extra for MTM or bespoke is smarter economics than going to Macy's to see if you're au courant every week.
 

GBR

One of the Regulars
Messages
288
Location
UK
You are seriously over stating the demand and misinterpreting what people are saying. few want the style of suit that is appreciated here, what they are trying to say that they believe quality was better in days gone by. probably true of some RTW but decent suits can be had.

If you want older styles then MTM is recommended. Try Matt Deckard or go to an older tailor locally.
 

Fifty150

One Too Many
Messages
1,861
Location
The Barbary Coast
If there were crowds wanting it, you'd see it at Penney's. As it is, it's nice to at least see some enthusiasm back in the market with shows like Mad Men, Pan-Am, Playboy Club, Boardwalk Empire and Downton Abby hitting the air.

Have you gotten any new customers who are influenced by these new TV shows? Has anyone come in and said that they want to look like a certain character, or ask for a suit like the one they saw on television?
 

MisterGrey

Practically Family
Messages
526
Location
Texas, USA
Have you gotten any new customers who are influenced by these new TV shows? Has anyone come in and said that they want to look like a certain character, or ask for a suit like the one they saw on television?

I'm curious about this myself. Has anyone asked to look like Don Draper? (Or Roger Sterling? He is the best dressed of the Mad Men crew, IMO).
 

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