Aero Ridley - configuration advice and general guidance

[AlexB]

Hello everybody,

I am about to order my second Aero Jacket. This time I would like to use Thurston-Bros as their service is well recommended here.

For sure I want to keep my Boardracer (black FQHH), so I was looking for something to complement my wardrobe Not to replace my BR (is this already the TFL effect ). I really like the Bootlegger/Ridley style as it is very classy but different from the BR.

I am hoping to get some advice from those who own a similar jacket or have experience with possible Aero configurations.
I chose the Ridley vs the Bootlegger as its pattern is based on the BR, which fits me quite well (in my opinion).

So far my configuration looks as follows:

- Ridley 3-Pocket Design
- Leather: Cordovan FQHH
- A little more body length than my BR
- Double straps at the waist for width adjustment
- Four snaps on the collar
- Antique brass hardware
- Zippers with leather straps
- All pockets with zippers
- Zippers on arms
- No inside pocket
- Lochcarron Tartan lining

My questions so far:

Does the strap waist adjustments requires that the bottom of the jacket has an extra seam? (See picture of the Black jacket from I think Radz108)

Which Lining is the “best”? Is tartan lining as durable as the cotton drill? If you want to use the jacket all year in German weather, what is the best weight? Light or medium? How does this relate to durability?

Would you go for sateen in the sleeves?

Does the antique brass go well with Cordovan?

Would you recommend shoulder gussets? I’ll probably will wear the jacket to ride my bike but 90% will be daily use.

And...is there something I forgot? Any recommendations? Options?

Looking forward to receive feedback from you guys!

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[handymike]

I think you should get samples of Cordovan Steerhide as well. I don't think the kidney panel has to be there. I would remove the epaulets and only do 1 side strap. Cordo and brass are classic IMHO. Sateen for sleeves- YES!

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, I would get rid of the kidney panel, the epaulets and the extra two buckles at the waist, only have one on each side as @handymike said.

The cotton drill is durable, but it adds no insulation and is a cold lining to wear. The tartan is not nearly as durable and only adds a little insulation. Maybe OK in the 40s and 50s F. Both of those would be cold for the German winters. A good combination would be the tartan lining over a sweater for some warmth.

If the jacket is properly fitted, and you don't much wear it to ride, no need for the shoulder gussets. A cleaner look without them.

A smart idea to use Thurston Brothers, but don't know how that would work with you being on the other side of the Atlantic.

Good luck with the project.

 

[handymike]

Perhaps you can go through a German stockist. Thurston is fantastic, but if you are in Germany it might get very expensive for shipping.

 

[AlexB]

Perhaps you can go through a German stockist. Thurston is fantastic, but if you are in Germany it might get very expensive for shipping.

As I don’t need to go through the process of getting a fit jacket first (we could use my BR as the fit jacket) there is no additional cost since shipping is free. I think it will go directly from Galashiels to Berlin, so only information will go over the Atlantic


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[Carlos840]

My questions so far:

Does the strap waist adjustments requires that the bottom of the jacket has an extra seam? (See picture of the Black jacket from I think Radz108)

No, you will have the same side panels whether you add adjustment straps or not.

Which Lining is the “best”? Is tartan lining as durable as the cotton drill? If you want to use the jacket all year in German weather, what is the best weight? Light or medium? How does this relate to durability?

None are really "the best".
Cotton drill is the most durable and the most versatile in different temperatures.
Tartan is visually the nicest, a little warmer, but not as durable. Warmth wise even the Strome weight tartan isn't warm enough for a real winter jacket, but on the other hand even the thinnest wool tartan will be too warm to be worn in summer.
If i only had one Aero i would go cotton drill, if i had two i would go cotton drill on one and Strome tartan on the other. (this is what i have and it's a great combo)

Would you go for sateen in the sleeves?

I don't see the point of sateen, drill is smooth enough not to be annoying and much tougher.

Does the antique brass go well with Cordovan?

I did get a jacket with antique brass early on, and i have to say i regret going that route.
IMO it will never look as good as regular brass that has tarnished naturally.
If you want brass, commit to it and go regular brass. It will loose some of it's shine after a couple year or so.

Would you recommend shoulder gussets? I’ll probably will wear the jacket to ride my bike but 90% will be daily use.

I don't have an obsession with "clean lines" like other do here, i like the shoulder gussets whether riding or not, i think they look good, and they also make reaching for things easier.
Aero's shoulder gussets aren't the most functional, but they look great.

And...is there something I forgot? Any recommendations? Options?

Personally i would keep the kidney panel, i think it breaks up the back in a nice way.
I also like the double straps on the sides, it's a bit Lewis Leathery but less cluttered.
It's a great looking jacket as it is.

Looking forward to receive feedback from you guys!

 

[AlexB]

I read a lot about linings, but still there is a question mark...

What’s the was to go?

In my BR I have cotton drill, in general I like it but I would prefer something thinner which is still durable.

Is the alternative the cotton sateen or tartan?

Looking forward to receive some feedback


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[VestCoast]

I have cotton sateen lining throughout my Aero Sheene, it's very lightweight and durable. I live in Texas and can wear it unzipped to 70-75 degrees if I'm not standing in the sun. The sateen is very easy to get off and on and for a fitted jacket like the Ridley I think it's a great choice. It doesn't bunch in the sleeves like the drill can in a slimmer cut. Obviously the sateen is a very poor choice when it comes to insulation.

 

[AlexB]

Thanks! I will go for cotton sateen as Carrie said its a little more comfortable while almost being as durable as the drill.

Regarding Lining: Olive or matching stitching with the Cordovan? What are your thoughts? How flashy is the olive with Cordovan?

 

[VestCoast]

I don't have experience with cordovan outside of the sample set I got from Thurston. I have a brown CXL bootlegger with olive stitching however and the combo looks really good. It's a pretty subtle contrast that is hard to notice. It's more obvious on the bootlegger's button hole but the Ridley doesn't have buttons so it shouldn't be too flashy. I think it would look great with cordovan and I'm sure there are examples of the pairing somewhere here. My personal opinion is that the ridley (especially in cordovan) is a jacket with a personality and the contrast would only add more character. If you were going with black I'd vote for tonal stitching like I did on my Sheene.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I think you are on the right track, I prefer Cotton Drill, but sateen is nice too. I'd go with Olive on either with the Cordovan. I have a Steerhide Cordovan '50's HB on my chair right now wiht Corduroy lining, that's an option too but only if you need the warmth. It has drill in the sleeves. Olive sticthing - would set that Board Racer off really well.

 

[AlexB]

I also like the navy Option that is available with the sateen. Pairs quite well with the Cordovan in my opinion. Olive stitching might be too much in this case....not sure whether to add this little contrast or not


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[AlexB]

To all of you that own a cordovan jacket: which zipper tape color did you chose? Standard with Aero is brown, however black may also fit. What do you think?


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[Harris HTM]

As I don’t need to go through the process of getting a fit jacket first (we could use my BR as the fit jacket) there is no additional cost since shipping is free. I think it will go directly from Galashiels to Berlin, so only information will go over the Atlantic


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My strong advice is to verify this with Thurston. If your jacket comes to Germany from the US and if the German customs are as affective as the Dutch one then get prepared for a substantial upcharge.

 

[AlexB]

Nope, it comes directly from Aero. However all the specification and assistance goes via Thurston.


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[Harris HTM]

Nope, it comes directly from Aero. However all the specification and assistance goes via Thurston.


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Ok, then good luck with your 2nd aero! I personally stopped after 5 customized ones, I'm still checking their sale pages though!

 

[Harris HTM]

As for the lining, since the german weather is more or less similar to the dutch one (ok, less windy and less humid, I know): the only way to get your jacket worn all around the year is to choose for a cotton or light tartan and allow for some layering. I do have 4 different linings in my aero's, from warmest to less warm: shearling lined LHB, alpaca lined Mariner, tartan lined 30's HB and cotton lined Happy Days. The shearling lined can be worn only up to 5-6C. I wear the Alpaca lined from October to April, sometimes with layering. The tartan and cotton lined are my spring/summer jackets, I could wear them also in (light) winter with layering if I didn't have the heavier jackets.

 

[AlexB]

Carrie said I am on the border of a 44 to a 46 Ridley. The 44 would be very snug while the 46 allows some room for layering.
Thus I will go for the 46 with navy cotton sateen. Then I can wear a long sleeve and a hoodie when it becomes colder.
Any advice regarding the zipper tape color?


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[Harris HTM]

Carrie said I am on the border of a 44 to a 46 Ridley. The 44 would be very snug while the 46 allows some room for layering.
Thus I will go for the 46 with navy cotton sateen. Then I can wear a long sleeve and a hoodie when it becomes colder.
Any advice regarding the zipper tape color?


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Is the zipper tape really visible? I d not own a cordovan jacket but I think a standard brown would do.

 

[AlexB]

Not really much, I think maybe on the arms. Where did you buy your jackets?


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